2022 Wolf Pup 17JG - 2021 Chevrolet Traverse RS AWD Towing

mfelgueroso

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Ontario
Hi all!
I currently have a 2022 Wolf Pup 17JG trailer, and I've been considering purchasing a 2021 Chevrolet Traverse RS AWD. My main concern is whether or not the Traverse will be suitable for towing the trailer.
Do you think the Traverse will be up to the task of towing the Wolf Pup 17JG? I would really appreciate any advice or insights you could provide me.
 
Does it have the full factory tow package? It has to have that, to be rated to tow 5,000lbs.
But the biggest issue is that the loaded tongue weight will exceed the max 500lbs hitch weight of the Traverse. Just adding two batteries will put it over and that's not adding the weights of factory options, dealer add-ons, water and trailer cargo.
So no, it's not spec'd to tow that Wolf Pup.


My sister had a Traverse and there's no way I would let her tow a TT with it since it's an unibody vehicle.
 
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Does it have the full factory tow package? It has to have that, to be rated to tow 5,000lbs.
But the biggest issue is that the loaded tongue weight will exceed the max 500lbs hitch weight of the Traverse. Just adding two batteries will put it over and that's not adding the weights of factory options, dealer add-ons, water and trailer cargo.
So no, it's not spec'd to tow that Wolf Pup.

Thank you!
Yes, it has the factory towing package.
I have only 1 battery, always travel with empty tanks and no dealer add-ons.
Still a no-go?
 
Still a no-go?
You can do what you want but look at the manuals and brochures for both.
Max tow weight for the vehicle is 5000 lbs
Empty Weight plus CC weight for the camper is 4990 lbs.
Stated hitch weight empty is 430lbs and you think it will be that when loaded with anything? I doubt it.
Just use some common sense on your decision.

Search this site for cargo weight.

My grandma told me not to touch the stove top but I did. Guess what happened.

My sister had a Traverse and there's no way I would let her tow a TT with it since it's an unibody vehicle.
A man with common sense.
 
Thank you!
Yes, it has the factory towing package.
I have only 1 battery, always travel with empty tanks and no dealer add-ons.
Still a no-go?
A typical WDH(which are often not recommended for unibody vehicles)will add 100lbs to the hitch and battery adds 50lbs.
What you're not understanding is that the dry hitch weight of 430lbs is for a stripped-down version of the trailer.
It only leaves 70lbs for the battery, WDH, factory options, dealer add-ons and trailer cargo.
Also since it's a single axle trailer that sets the axle farther back from the ball, it puts much more tongue weight than a comparable tandem axle trailer. Using the typical 13% of the trailer's GVWR(for single axle trailers)for a ballpark loaded tongue weight, gives you 650lbs, exceeding the Traverse's max by 150lbs.
 
Hi all!
I currently have a 2022 Wolf Pup 17JG trailer, and I've been considering purchasing a 2021 Chevrolet Traverse RS AWD. My main concern is whether or not the Traverse will be suitable for towing the trailer.
Do you think the Traverse will be up to the task of towing the Wolf Pup 17JG? I would really appreciate any advice or insights you could provide me.
I have a 2016 WP FP16. It's a single axle 3900lb gross weight, 300lb tongue weight, setup. I've pretty much maxed it out, weight wise. I elected to go with a Dodge Grand Caravan with 3.8L engine for a tow vehicle. The van did not come with the factory tow package, so I added: transmission fluid cooler, additional engine cooler and booster springs for the rear wheels (to keep the back end level) along with the hitch system. Without the extra rear springs it always tried to drag the rear, even though I use a weight distribution hitch. One winter I hit a snow covered speed bump which tore off the holding tank drains and bent the axle. While replacing the axle, I had it flipped to gain more ground clearance. This also allowed the installation of shocks on the trailer which helps its stability when being passed on the freeway by a high balling 40' semi.

After about 50k miles the rear brake disks and pads had to be replaced as they were shot from the extra load the trailer puts on them during braking. I also learned that standard highway tires are not good. I now run all weather tires (3 peak mountain snowflake rating) on the van and am glad I bit on them, even though they cost more. Next time I replace trailer tires, it will be with D class type rather than the C class tires it came with.

By itself, the van can cruse right along at whatever speed traffic demands. With trailer attached, I rarely go faster than 55 mph, which is OK by me. but it can only chug up the grapevine with the semis. As I like to take my trailer into the mountains and camp near Oregons many alpine lakes, I am always the guy everyone want to pass on the way up and it is not unusual, even with increased cooling capacity, I have to stop and let the engine cool down. Running the vans A/C during a summer climb is absolutely verboten.

All in all, I'm OK for what it is considering what I paid for the whole rig. However, from my experience, I strongly suggest for your trailer, which is significantly heavier than mine, you opt for a tow vehicle with at least double the power and weight ratings of a Traverse!

Even so, if we go back to Yellowstone or go to the Tetons (lots of climbing), I'm considering using the Chevy C-10 (350V8+4 on the floor) for the tow vehicle.

I didn't mean to write an essay but if it helps you, or anyone else, make wise choices, it was worth staying up late.

TG
 
Having 3 bumper pulls and 3 different trucks over the past 20 years of travelling, I can tell you that the real test of towing is going down a curving mountain grade. After going 6% downhill for miles, you will smell burning brake pads and start to wonder if they will make it to the bottom. The trailer brakes will only do so much on a long downhill. My simple math says the truck should be rated for at least double what your loaded trailer weighs if you're going into the mountains. Even if you do nothing but flat driving, when someone cuts you off and hits the brakes, good luck stopping if your close to the max truck capacity.
 
No argument from this quarter. As I wrote above, after just 50k miles of towing, I had to replace rear pads AND rotors on my Grand Caravan. Still, while it is JUST enough rig to pull and stop my WP 16FB, which is close to the smallest trailer that I, wife and small dog can abide, it's quite adequate, as long as i don't beat the drive train to death. Breaking IS a big deal and is ignored or at least under specified and discussed by most RV dealers I've encountered.

The trailer dealership wants to sell you the biggest trailer you can budget and ignores the physics of the demands on the tow vehicle. I bought the Grand Caravan and trailer at the same time to be a package, knowing, for the most part, what the attributes and limitations would be. I had to stay within a total budget of under $25k, which I did. I was able to, or have a mechanic friend, do the necessary upgrades to the van in subsequent $ increments.

Next go-round with the rear brakes on the van, I'll be looking into having completely different rear wheels installed. The Grand Caravan shares a lot of hardware with the small RAM trucks and I think I can get rear wheels intended for a 1/2 ton RAM pickup installed on my van. Well see...
 
I'm towing a heavier TT with a Durango (720lbs and 7200lbs; SRT's are rated 860/8600 fwiw). What people tend to forget about towing specs is that they are an industry standard and include only the driver in the vehicle. None of us tow that way. If you seriously want to know your payload capacity available for a TT, throw everybody in the car and go run over a CAT scale for $13. That will tell you exactly how much room you have to attach a TT. I roll over a CAT scale every couple years to check my rear axle. We can make it work because it's just the wife and I and we tow with empty tanks and very little in the Durango. If our adult children want to join us, they drive separate.
 

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