2025 Surveyor Legend 202RBLE

redjalapeno

New Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2025
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8
Location
Texas
Picked up a new 2025 Surveyor Legend 202RBLE a week ago today. The first week of camping to try it out to make sure things work in the field (camp near the dealer), revealed a couple of issues I could use some assistance with.

1. The propane furnace was on when the dealer did the 1 hour "how to" when I picked it up. Weather was in the upper 20 degree range. However, in the first 3 days of use, the furnace would not always turn on, and sometimes the furnace would cycle, reach temperature, turn off, and never turn on (cycle) again, causing temperature drops of 20 degrees or more.

The dealer service tech told me to cycle the fan (Low, High, Auto) on air conditioner, fan, dry, and then set to heat. Sometimes after several attempts that worked and the furnace turned on and worked fine for several hours. Then had the same issue. When I took the trailer back to the dealer on day 4, to service the furnace, they replaced the 2 propane tanks and said they may not have been purged and filled properly. The service tech also said he reset the switch on the back side of the furnace by accessing through the bottom drawer next to the oven. It turned on and worked then and the next couple of days.

Today, day 7, it quit cycling sometime at night, and I woke up to 50 degrees inside. I had just filled the propane cylinder the day before. I turned on the fan to the A/C, fan, and heat, and after 3 attempts it eventually came on and worked fine.

2. At the dealership on day 4, the 12v refrigerator blew the 15 amp fuse when the service tech was working on the furnace and he replaced the fuse. Then while camping on day 5, the fuse blew again. Then the fuse blew again today, on day 7.

Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance. I really like the camper. Need to educate myself on how to troubleshoot and service myself.
 
Congratulations and yes, you'll need to learn to do quite a bit of servicing but you have clear warranty issues and should make the dealer address them.

Work arounds are not fixes. Something is wrong.
 
My 202RBLE came with a small DieHard Silver 24DC-1 battery. I purchased a 12v 280 ah LiFePO4 compact battery for its replacement. I plan to install the battery in the pass-through storage, near the inverter prep.

The 400 watt solar array comes down the wall by the door, where there is a GoPower 30amp PWM solar controller on the wall. I am looking to purchase a Victron SmartSolar MPPT, as I already own a smaller Victron for my mobile solar LiFePO battery bank and I like the performance and their app. I may add an inverter to the camper later.

From reading this forum, some have stated that the existing solar array wires currently hooked in the GoPower solar charger installed in the wall can be unconnected from the charger, then connect the wires together and put the unconnected GoPower charger back on the wall. Is that correct?

Then I could use the wires to the existing DieHard battery in the tongue box, to bring inside the pass-through, to be connected to the solar controller, then out to the battery right next to it with proper sized battery cable. Is that correct? And the battery can be charged by the existing WFCO WF-8955-AD converter/charger with Auto Detection of LiFePO batteries.

Any confirmation and/or suggestions much appreciated.
 
From reading this forum, some have stated that the existing solar array wires currently hooked in the GoPower solar charger installed in the wall can be unconnected from the charger, then connect the wires together and put the unconnected GoPower charger back on the wall. Is that correct?
Yep. Those wires would be live, at that point, so I'd suggest turning the PV off in the controller (menu selection). Then disconnect the batt. Cover the panels, make the connection, cut it the new controller etc. Now would be a good time to add a solar disconnect., upstream of the controller.
Also, command strips are your friend. You don't have to hang the controller back in it's place if you'd rather hang a picture.

Then I could use the wires to the existing DieHard battery in the tongue box, to bring inside the pass-through, to be connected to the solar controller, then out to the battery right next to it with proper sized battery cable. Is that correct?

Yes but you'll have to either cut, or take loose the underbelly to do that. I took mine loose and prefer it to cutting but it was no small task. You'll find the battery wires go to a frame ground and the battery disconnect switch, where you'll also find the + wire to the tongue jack, wired to the upstream side. The battery disconnect, if wired as mine was, will have no effect on the jack, or the solar. Moving on from the disconnect, you'll find a small busbar type situation, made of a copper plate and several circuit breakers. I chose to leave that in place, just rerouting and upsizing the main batt wires. I moved the disconnect inside and it now shuts everything off.

The solar wire, will have it's own self resetting circuit breaker in the same area, which you might find enough wire to bring inside, sorta just in case. I eventually phased that one out, after the solar array expansion, needing PV fuses on the roof.

And the battery can be charged by the existing WFCO WF-8955-AD converter/charger with Auto Detection of LiFePO batteries.
Allegedly. I don't know that it is quite as plug n play as that. There were some early reports that it took a deep discharge or two to get it to recognize the LI batt. And even then, could revert back. I never used mine for LI, because I also installed a Multiplus 3K, when I added the LiFePO4 batts, turned the breaker off for the converter and put a piece of tape across it.

Whether it works well with LI or not, your solar will help fill in whatever deficiencies.

I'd think you'd want a main battery fuse, between it and the house wiring. There are calculators for that.
 
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I really like the camper. Need to educate myself on how to troubleshoot and service myself.
Yep! :)

The inclusion of wireless and digital gadgets has made this more complicated than it needs to be.

-- Chuck
 
How do you like the Victron Multiplus 3k? I read the specs on it. Seems like a great option.
It is doing everything I wanted and expected. Not an inexpensive piece of gear but inverter / adjustable charger / transfer switch, with passthrough capabilities, able to run the whole trailer, all rolled into one? Whats not to like?

20240324_100743.jpg
 
Thanks for the link to the kit.

What did you do with the alternator charging coming in from the 7 pin connector?
I tested the draw at various states of charge, with test leads and a DC ampmeter. That circuit on my truck is protected by a 30A fuse. I never saw a draw higher than 8A.

I'm not saying its a non issue for your truck but its a non issue on my truck, backed by 6K trouble free towing miles.

OTOH, if I didn't have a Powerboost, with the built in 7.2KW generator in my back pocket, I'd install a DC to DC charger. Victron has a new 50A version.
 
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I have a 20plus year old Tahoe. How do I address the alternator charging coming in to the 7 pin? Can I disconnect it somehow? Or will I need a DC to DC charger? I do not want the alternator affected in any way. It is the original and still going strong. They don't make them that way anymore.
 
FYI, I purchased a new Zinus memory foam Queen sized 8" mattress on Amazon. Mattress in a box, that was easy to install in the new camper. $199.99 plus tax. Got my first good nights sleep. Its a good fit.
 
I have a 20plus year old Tahoe. How do I address the alternator charging coming in to the 7 pin? Can I disconnect it somehow? Or will I need a DC to DC charger? I do not want the alternator affected in any way. It is the original and still going strong. They don't make them that way anymore.
Don't bother. The charging pin usually only provides a trickle charge, which the alternator can easily handle.
And what do you mean by "They don't make them that way anymore"? Amazon has tons of them available. A lot cheaper than a DC to DC charger.
The alternator charge is only to maintain the trailer's battery charge level.
 
And what do you mean by "They don't make them that way anymore"? Amazon has tons of them available. A lot cheaper than a DC to DC charger.
The alternator charge is only to maintain the trailer's battery charge level.
I mean the original alternator on the Tahoe is a much higher quality alternator than those available today. So I would like to not mess with any alternator charge via the 7 pin. Many folks have stated that LiFePO batteries can strain the alternator and ruin it. I would rather not have any alternator charging at all. That is why I asked about my options.
 
I have a 20plus year old Tahoe. How do I address the alternator charging coming in to the 7 pin? Can I disconnect it somehow? Or will I need a DC to DC charger? I do not want the alternator affected in any way. It is the original and still going strong. They don't make them that way anymore.
You'll have to make your own choice but several of us have tested OEM alternators with LiFePO4s in the trailer and have had no problems.

I think the issue you're talking about is more of a motorhome thing but you'll have to suit your own risk tolerances.
 
You'll have to make your own choice but several of us have tested OEM alternators with LiFePO4s in the trailer and have had no problems.

I think the issue you're talking about is more of a motorhome thing but you'll have to suit your own risk tolerances.
Yea, I've been on this Forum a long time and have never seen anyone here, reference such an issue.
 
Yea, I've been on this Forum a long time and have never seen anyone here, reference such an issue.
There has to be something to it. Battleborn used to include a special regulator in their kits. There are vids about it. I think one of them is from Victron.

But it appears that it must be a case by case type thing, because not everyone has an issue.

I started will full batts. and 10ga test leads. I don't recall what the initial reading was but it didn't scare me off.

Drop state of charge, try again. Rinse repeat down to 60% SOC, where on AC charging, a pair of 300s can gulp amps. The highest I saw was 8 so, non issue for me.
 
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