24 32kd slide leaks, room rollers now seem all the way down

Well, it could be that we stopped using that adjustable roller for some reason, and I was just no aware. But I guess we will see.
 
Thank you, resolved, Sara knew what they were and saved the day. They already sent them out, I will let you know how this works out, I am optimistic on this helping with the dip and less of a cut to the fascia board, and this part of the fix will be resolved. Swapping the rack rail will probably still need to be assisted and sealant cleanup TBD. -Hoping for an uneventful summer.
 
We have a 24 32kd and were on our way back from an 800-mile trip and went through a lot of rain. When we got home, we had quite a bit of water on the floor after we put the slide out (looks just like your photos). I haven't had a lot of time to look at it since we had a lot going on. I just got time tonight to start doing some research before I start taking things apart and found your thread. I had seen some water a few times last year but to be honest, it didn't really rain much while driving last year. We just had a ton of rain over the past week with the truck sitting in the driveway, and I don't see any issues sitting with the slide out, seems like it only happens with the slide in going down the road. We have all the same issues, a lot of screws for the seal snapped off, the slide seams tight to the seal on the top but doesn't touch the seal on the bottom.

I was thinking there must be a way to wind in the bottom gear and not the top, to even it out, so the slide touches the seal all the way around. I'm pretty sure it did when we bought it. not totally sure how that gets adjusted, I'm hoping that I will pick up some ideas at the eastern rally.
 
There is no top to bottom adjustments. If both seals behind the lower edge of the slide are not touching, you can add a stick on D seal opposite the higher one, some have had luck with that. That could help water blowing up the seal when driving. Slide your hand up the slide bottom mid way when closed and feel for the seal contact.

Mine just seemed to be more problematic than most, we have been working through it though and getting closer.
 
Thanks to a very quick delivery on the rollers I did this mod tonight. In my case, this absolutely made a difference reducing the sag with the slide in by at least 1/4". I used 2x6 cut to 7", the same as the existing blocks, and ripped them down so the roller sits back enough from the front edge, so the secondary roller is about +/- 5" further out than the first. I just snuggled them to the bottom of the slide with the adjustment screws when it was out so the load is shared.

I also ripped (only the top, did not change the lower gap) the top of the facia down with the wifes help to eliminate the awkward gap the tech left at the top when he just moved the facia higher and the rubber edge was above the flooring, and installed the new black head screws provided so it looks factory fresh again on the rubber edge. As long as there is no more sag we should be good on this part.
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Main slide seems all good. The tech put the Plus on the bedroom slide. First trip, the lower rack clicks on the plastic trim when moving, this can probably be dremelled out. Then I looked up. Why is this getting chewed up and what is the solution?
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Main slide seems all good. The tech put the Plus on the bedroom slide. First trip, the lower rack clicks on the plastic trim when moving, this can probably be dremelled out. Then I looked up. Why is this getting chewed up and what is the solution?
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My gear racks will bow both in and out at various times, but it doesn’t seem likely the rack teeth would cause that amount of damage to the seal. Perhaps if bowing out, the rack teeth are catching the seal and pulling it inside the frame, where the seal is then caught up by the drive motor gear. Just a guess. I don’t know if any adjustment is enough to prevent this or the seal will have to notched.
 
The top one is definitely related to the bow out grabbing the main seal halfway through the cycle and dragging it in. Not sure why this one is particular would be so bad.
 
Any chance that additional set of inboard rollers you just added changed the position and/or geometry of the slide just enough for the rack to grab that seal. By necessity, clearances in that area are minimal. And the more I look at it, once the seal was pulled into the column, it does look like the drive motor gear chewed on it.
 
Nope. Rollers were to fix the main slide and improved it greatly. This is the rear bedroom slide. Only the tech has touched that one upgrading it to plus racks.
 
Nope. Rollers were to fix the main slide and improved it greatly. This is the rear bedroom slide. Only the tech has touched that one upgrading it to plus racks.
Ahh, gotcha. So the new racks on the bedroom slide have slightly more bowing. Slightly longer, less rigid material, adjustment??? Interesting diagnostic exercise.
 
I do appreciate that they swapped the bedroom to Plus to match the main where my l primary issued were. I did have to do stop resets on the bedroom slide before.

The bedroom was full mechanisms, the main was just motors and controllers due to part availability issues. The rails all look the same. There is no adjustability other than running the motors all the way in or out until they fully stop. The seals size and profile look the same, the originals have pushed/formed to the outside with time, the new are more upright or leaning toward the rack.
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Missed one answer. Bowing is still considered normal for these, sometimes in, sometimes out. This one has only been cycled 4-5 times and I was inside and could not hear the lower clicking until I extended with the app from the outside.

I really dont mean to continually bitch about problems. At the same time I am going to be direct, upfront and honest about them. Many small "expected RV issues" I take care of and nobody sees. I want a job in RV quality management; I am too far from Indiana. 😁
 
One more angle. The metal flat strip on that one rack is not parallel to the body, instead angled in so everything is closer to the rack and the seal pushes in instead of out. I need to get out of camp and take a bicycle ride for distraction..
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I really dont mean to continually bitch about problems. At the same time I am going to be direct, upfront and honest about them. Many small "expected RV issues" I take care of and nobody sees. I want a job in RV quality management; I am too far from Indiana. 😁

No worries. I and others I’m sure feel your pain. Even though Dynamax was awesome attempting to fix our slide outs, twice, at the end of the day the best thing we did was going with Vroom.

We scheduled this (Vroom) in September of 2022 after our first problems had us at our wits end. After each of the Dynamax fixes we held out hope we wouldn’t need to go through with the conversion but at the end of the day we did. It took a while to get it done as Brian Vroom had to figure out how to do the conversion on RVs with SlimRack, and it meant for us being beta testers, but it has been a godsend.

We no longer give our slides a second thought. Our slides are level and aligned front to back and top to bottom, the new slide seals fit so much better all around, we no longer have sync issues, and best of all, if we do have a problem there is an easy mechanical way to move the slides. This last part is a huge plus.

When getting it done Vroom had the coach for three weeks to figure things out. Fortunately our home base is close by so it wasn’t a big deal. I think they do the conversion in a couple of days now. This conversion was a while ago and prices have gone up considerably but even at today’s price we would still do it knowing what we know today.

Bottom line is we truly hope your issues get resolved without the expense of going with an aftermarket solution (Vroom) but if you need to go there, we think you’ll be happy…although significantly lighter in the wallet. :-(
 
My Vroom quote was $7500 2 months ago main slide only.
 
More diagnostic photos of the bedroom slide interference. I have submitted initial pics to CS over the weekend, sent an additional photo and video yesterday morning (Tue), and just sent these as well. I should hear back soon with direction.

Looking at the pictures of #16 on this post, it appears my slide trim may be installed too far in? That post says 3 7/8" +/- 1/8, this is less (looking at the trim edge, not the black caulking). The flat bar trim on this one is angled towards the slide, like it is off the edge of the outer skin and should not be. All three other vertical trim are flat and parallel to the skin. The top rail bows out when extending and ratchets hard against the plastic trim under the torn seal.
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Is this the bedroom slide? What does the front measure? If all he did was replace slide motors....then nothing should have changed...but measuring the front gaps, might tell you if it got crooked in the opening, or if it shifted back somehow.
 
That is the front side of the bedroom slide, KD32 so curbside. He only replaced the motors and controller on the main slide due to lack of inventory on complete racks. On this bedroom, he replaced the complete system. The bedroom slide rode fine prior, it just had the reset stop issues, so they determined it was best to do both slides at the same time. That is the front of the bedroom slide, the back of the bedroom slide seems fine, but I can pull it out of storage and measure that one tonight if it helps determine if they room shifted forward somehow. It appears to be closing square on the seal when all the way in. What prevents the room from shifting forward and back bouncing down the road, there must be something to control lateral movement?

The main slide seems bueno now with the additional rollers added.
 
It "can" shift, but normally cannot shift too far due to the block protecting the motor.

I'll have to see if the slide seal changes at all. That definitely seems closer than it needs to be.
 

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