rthrbelsewhere
CampeRooo
After learning some of this the hard way, I thought it would be a good idea to repost this in hopes of a sticky.
1) Weight balancing on dual/tandem axle trailers - balance the weight on both axles by raising your hitch height or by using a weight distribution hitch with it. The frame of the camper should be level with the vehicle that's towing it, not leaning forward or back once it's hitched up and loaded. A huge difference is made when I have firewood in the bed of the pickup vs having an empty bed. In either case, don't let all the weight of your camper lean on one particular axle...I learned this the hard way, 2 tires later, a 2" rise ball mount, and several hours of wasted time in the middle of nowhere Iowa. If you're unsure of the weight on each axle, most truck stops are willing to work with you in weighing in each axle so you know where you're at. Better to have somewhat of an idea of the weight distribution vs going into it blind like i did.
2) Air pressure - The air pressure marked on the sidewall of the tire is the max pressure at cold inflation, meaning...the tires should not have been moved a single mile before checking them. Or, if they are in the direct sunlight, wait until evening or early morning to check all the tires and air them up equally to that max air pressure. The tire is built to expand at that pressure and should be kept as max pressure to minimize rolling resistance which will keep the tire cooler then if you left them all 5 lbs short of max. Also, the weight carrying capacity is based on the max pressure in the tire, so 5 lbs short of max will drop the load carrying capacity of the tire. This is particularly important to remember during different seasons and drastic changes in air temperature. "Seasonal changes or altitude changes create a rise or drop in air pressure (for every 10 degrees change in temperature, tire air pressure changes 1 psi)." (Ref. Discount Tire Co. Air Pressure website).
Also, don't use some cheap .99 cent air pressure gauge...these are very rarely accurate...a few more bucks for a much better gauge will save you the headache later. "For trucks and RVs, use a dual-head inflation gauge that is calibrated up to 120 psi at 2 psi increments." (same reference as above). I read another comment that the air pressure gauges at gas stations are also very inaccurate, so beware of those. If your tires require more then 60lbs of pressure (most common on D and E load rated tires) be sure to use steel air valves or steel sleeved rubber air valves that will allow that much pressure. Speaking of air valves, I guess now's a good time to mention that there's a recall on rubber valve stems - http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls...rue&refurl=rss and http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4282960.html . For one of the best valve stems for safety, this might be an option for you - http://www.hcwsinc.com/faqs.htm I don't know this company or work for them, so dont ban me over this info...its just a reference.
3) Storage - During periods of seasonal storage, it's always a good idea to beware of the environmental hazards that can result in premature tire failures. It is recommended that stored tires are not sitting on black pavement, near reflective services, or on any other kind of heat absorbing materials, near ozone producing equipment - such as electrical engines, and be sure not to store them in areas that can build up any kind of petroleum based materials such as oils, fuels, and asphalts. If the tires are removed from your RV, they should be washed prior to storage and you want to store them in a dry, cool place and it is recommended to deflate the tire to 50% of the max inflation rating on the side of the tire. If you leave them on the RV, it is recommended that tire covers of some sort are used to prevent direct sunlight on them so they don't dry out on you. Additionally, if they are left on the RV, they recommend either blocking the vehicle frame to take all the weight off of the tires or inflate your tires another 25% over max inflation rates and the RV moved every 3 months to prevent flat spotting and dry cracking at the flexing points of where the tires meet the ground. Just don't forget to adjust the tire pressures prior taking your RV out of storage. (Ref at http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-112102.pdf or http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=37 ) It is also recommended that cardboard, plastic, or wood be placed between the tire and the ground of which the storage is going to take place.
Here's some good advise from Michelin - http://www.rvadvice.com/rvarticles/4tires.html
Same advise from Goodyear - http://www.goodyear.com/rv/faq/care.html
More advise - http://www.rvamerica.com/rvlife/buz2.htm
Basic reference - http://rvbasics.com/techtips/rv-tire-care.html
A bit of a reference on TPMS - I think that this would be a good idea for those of us towing and not driving, but in the general sense of safety, it may not be a bad idea for all RV'ers to utilize the benefits from a monitoring system. (note, this article specifies one certain brand of TPMS system...but there are several out there and I am not promoting or demoting any of them...this is for reference only.) http://www.rvtravel.com/blog/rvnow/2...res-while.html
Last but not least, those of you that know Mark Polk of the Outdoor Channel's RVTV segments, here's an article from him - http://www.explorerrv.com/articles/RVTireFailure101.pdf
My goal here is to hopefully have enough information to help along those that are first timers (like myself) as well as maybe even add some good content to the veterans of the forum. Feel free to add anything that i may have missed.
Thank you.
Joe
1) Weight balancing on dual/tandem axle trailers - balance the weight on both axles by raising your hitch height or by using a weight distribution hitch with it. The frame of the camper should be level with the vehicle that's towing it, not leaning forward or back once it's hitched up and loaded. A huge difference is made when I have firewood in the bed of the pickup vs having an empty bed. In either case, don't let all the weight of your camper lean on one particular axle...I learned this the hard way, 2 tires later, a 2" rise ball mount, and several hours of wasted time in the middle of nowhere Iowa. If you're unsure of the weight on each axle, most truck stops are willing to work with you in weighing in each axle so you know where you're at. Better to have somewhat of an idea of the weight distribution vs going into it blind like i did.
2) Air pressure - The air pressure marked on the sidewall of the tire is the max pressure at cold inflation, meaning...the tires should not have been moved a single mile before checking them. Or, if they are in the direct sunlight, wait until evening or early morning to check all the tires and air them up equally to that max air pressure. The tire is built to expand at that pressure and should be kept as max pressure to minimize rolling resistance which will keep the tire cooler then if you left them all 5 lbs short of max. Also, the weight carrying capacity is based on the max pressure in the tire, so 5 lbs short of max will drop the load carrying capacity of the tire. This is particularly important to remember during different seasons and drastic changes in air temperature. "Seasonal changes or altitude changes create a rise or drop in air pressure (for every 10 degrees change in temperature, tire air pressure changes 1 psi)." (Ref. Discount Tire Co. Air Pressure website).
Also, don't use some cheap .99 cent air pressure gauge...these are very rarely accurate...a few more bucks for a much better gauge will save you the headache later. "For trucks and RVs, use a dual-head inflation gauge that is calibrated up to 120 psi at 2 psi increments." (same reference as above). I read another comment that the air pressure gauges at gas stations are also very inaccurate, so beware of those. If your tires require more then 60lbs of pressure (most common on D and E load rated tires) be sure to use steel air valves or steel sleeved rubber air valves that will allow that much pressure. Speaking of air valves, I guess now's a good time to mention that there's a recall on rubber valve stems - http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls...rue&refurl=rss and http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4282960.html . For one of the best valve stems for safety, this might be an option for you - http://www.hcwsinc.com/faqs.htm I don't know this company or work for them, so dont ban me over this info...its just a reference.
3) Storage - During periods of seasonal storage, it's always a good idea to beware of the environmental hazards that can result in premature tire failures. It is recommended that stored tires are not sitting on black pavement, near reflective services, or on any other kind of heat absorbing materials, near ozone producing equipment - such as electrical engines, and be sure not to store them in areas that can build up any kind of petroleum based materials such as oils, fuels, and asphalts. If the tires are removed from your RV, they should be washed prior to storage and you want to store them in a dry, cool place and it is recommended to deflate the tire to 50% of the max inflation rating on the side of the tire. If you leave them on the RV, it is recommended that tire covers of some sort are used to prevent direct sunlight on them so they don't dry out on you. Additionally, if they are left on the RV, they recommend either blocking the vehicle frame to take all the weight off of the tires or inflate your tires another 25% over max inflation rates and the RV moved every 3 months to prevent flat spotting and dry cracking at the flexing points of where the tires meet the ground. Just don't forget to adjust the tire pressures prior taking your RV out of storage. (Ref at http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-112102.pdf or http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=37 ) It is also recommended that cardboard, plastic, or wood be placed between the tire and the ground of which the storage is going to take place.
Here's some good advise from Michelin - http://www.rvadvice.com/rvarticles/4tires.html
Same advise from Goodyear - http://www.goodyear.com/rv/faq/care.html
More advise - http://www.rvamerica.com/rvlife/buz2.htm
Basic reference - http://rvbasics.com/techtips/rv-tire-care.html
A bit of a reference on TPMS - I think that this would be a good idea for those of us towing and not driving, but in the general sense of safety, it may not be a bad idea for all RV'ers to utilize the benefits from a monitoring system. (note, this article specifies one certain brand of TPMS system...but there are several out there and I am not promoting or demoting any of them...this is for reference only.) http://www.rvtravel.com/blog/rvnow/2...res-while.html
Last but not least, those of you that know Mark Polk of the Outdoor Channel's RVTV segments, here's an article from him - http://www.explorerrv.com/articles/RVTireFailure101.pdf
My goal here is to hopefully have enough information to help along those that are first timers (like myself) as well as maybe even add some good content to the veterans of the forum. Feel free to add anything that i may have missed.
Thank you.
Joe
