Andersen Fiver Hitch Problem

[richp-FRF]

So I installed my Andersen rail based hitch on my 2019 K2500 HD crew cab Duramax with the ball in its lowest position because my trailer already rides slightly nose high. The adapter is installed on the pin box with the ball socket forward.

On its first trip out, at some point the bottom of the pin box engaged the top of my tailgate, destroying the plastic guard. This was a highway trip; I didn't travel over any severely irregular terrain or bumps (other than a railroad crossing) to cause this rather dramatic interference between the pin box and the tailgate.

I am very reluctant to raise the ball in the hitch because it will only make my trailer ride even higher at the nose.

I realize that I could rotate the adapter on the pin 180°. With the receptacle for the ball toward the rear, it might improve the geometry of things. But only slightly.

And I realize I could rotate the hitch in the bed 180°, so that the ball is forward, instead of closer to the tailgate. While that would give the slanted pin box some additional clearance, it might create turning problems that I presently don't have to worry about.

I am waiting for an answer from Andersen to my inquiry on this, but I was wondering if anyone here had any insights they can offer.

My alternative is to remove the Anderson, which I like a lot, and return to my typical fifth wheel setup.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[aceinspp]

I had a similar problem and I just raised the ball one notch and yes it made the trailer a bit nose high but worked well and gave me the clearance I need in turning also . I had no handling issues. I also turned the ball toward the tailgate. Later RJD

 

[corn18]

The Andersen isn't the issue, it's the geometry. What were you using before the Andersen and what was the bed clearance?

 

[richp-FRF]

I had a 16k# Reese/Hidden Hitch -- a tilting unit that gave me 6" at the bed rails.

I was over there today to winterize and discovered that with the trailer fully elevated to lift off the pin, my Lippert stairs would no longer touch the ground at their greatest adjustment.

That sort of was the final straw for me. As much as I like the Andersen, the bed problem and the fact every time I wanted to get in the trailer I'd have to lower it by several inches was too much of a trade-off.

It's coming out, and the regular hitch is going back in.

 

[5picker]

You've discovered a couple of the few flaws of the Andersen hitch design.
I've thought about using it but I store under a covered roof. To have enough rail height and to raise the R/V high enough to clear the ball when hitcging/unhitching, I would no longer fit under the roof.

 

[aceinspp]

I had a 16k# Reese/Hidden Hitch -- a tilting unit that gave me 6" at the bed rails.

I was over there today to winterize and discovered that with the trailer fully elevated to lift off the pin, my Lippert stairs would no longer touch the ground at their greatest adjustment.

That sort of was the final straw for me. As much as I like the Andersen, the bed problem and the fact every time I wanted to get in the trailer I'd have to lower it by several inches was too much of a trade-off.

It's coming out, and the regular hitch is going back in.

Sound as if you are doing things wrong.. You always have unhook then lower to get the steps to hit ground. You have your legs extended after unhooking from the truck totally wrong. I think you need to revisit how you unhook your truck and how the steps are suppose to be on the ground only can this be done after you have unhitched. Then lower to level out camper. Later RJD

 

[richp-FRF]

Ace, since first getting the Lippert steps, I have always been able to just drop them and immediately use them -- whether still hitched up or disconnected. The dimensions and geometry of my truck/trailer combo are optimal with my old hitch -- and I suppose you could say I have been lucky. Occasionally I've had to make a minor change in the length of the legs to accommodate an irregular site, but that almost never has been necessary.

So I've never had to make the regular adjustment in the way you describe. I would find it a major inconvenience to have to do that, when for so many years no adjustment of trailer height has been needed just to get in and out. Color me spoiled and lazy.

(Having used it briefly, there is another factor that I've never heard anybody mention, and that is the extra wear and tear on the motor that drives my electric landing gear. The considerable extra distance involved in raising the Anderson hitch over the pin is going to inevitably cause that motor to fail sooner than it otherwise would have.)

It's sort of a shame, because Andersen offers some advantages. But life is full of tradeoffs, and as good as my Andersen is in many ways, I'm going give it up to restore my former convenience and functionality.

 

[aceinspp]

One thing I did was use blocks under the retractable legs so they did not travel-as much to unhitch. Lots of folks do this. Have done with every 5er I owned and just made thing so much simpler but to each his own. Later RJD

 

[richp-FRF]

Thanks everyone for their thoughtful contributions.