Anode stuck (solved)

[caheaton]

I'm in a bit of a quandary. Winterizing our trailer today and was unable to remove the anode to drain . It appears to be a combination of installed too deep at factory (only 1 or 2 threads showing) combined with rust.

Tried a socket wrench, electric impact wrench and a hammer style impact. None of them made it budge. I'm also hoping that the hammer style impact didn't damage the porcelain lined tank.

Any ideas? Were expecting freezing conditions in about 10 to 12 days from now. I already a winterized the rest of the system, but if I must I may just route the lines to the tank and flush the water out with antifreeze.

A bummer as we've only owned it for 4 months...shocked the plug would be so stuck already.

 

[Larry-NC]

Tapered thread

I'm in a bit of a quandary. Winterizing our trailer today and was unable to remove the anode to drain . It appears to be a combination of installed too deep at factory (only 1 or 2 threads showing) combined with rust.

Tried a socket wrench, electric impact wrench and a hammer style impact. None of them made it budge. I'm also hoping that the hammer style impact didn't damage the porcelain lined tank.

Any ideas? Were expecting freezing conditions in about 10 to 12 days from now. I already a winterized the rest of the system, but if I must I may just route the lines to the tank and flush the water out with antifreeze.

A bummer as we've only owned it for 4 months...shocked the plug would be so stuck already.

It's a tapered thread, and as you suggest, it was probably tightened too tight previously. With your socket, use an extender and a 25" breaker bar and you will be able to get it free.

 

[GolfingDave]

Any chance it is like the one mentioned in this post?
Some pictures as you read more posts.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f217/suburban-sw6delc-anode-escapades-271868.html

 

[NJKris]

Ditto what Larry said, you would not be first guy on forum with this issue from factory. 6 point socket with breaker bar.

 

[Capacitor]

And make sure it is a 1 1/16” 6 point socket deep well preferred.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Wouldn't hurt to put a few drops of oil on the thread area and let it soak for a couple of days. Might want to apply oil a couple of times a day.

A 6 point socket, 1 1/16" as I recall, an extension and a breaker bar and it should come loose. Don't bother with pliers, channel locks, end wrenches and such. You'l just mess up things including a few of your knuckles.

I recall stuff called penetrating oil of years back. What ever that is. Likely illegal to posses these days. I'd use a fast acting oil such as 3 in 1 general purpose oil. No motor oil or WD-40.

Then after you get it loose, use a wire brush in your drill to chase the threads into the opening. When you install a new one or the old one, put some anti-seize compound (auto parts store) on the threads. Install and don't over tighten. If it leaks, tighten it a bit more. If it doesn't leak, it is tight enough.

Bob

 

[Theb2b]

I use a 27 mm, fits as well as a 1 1/16 as it is the SAE equivalent with a 2 foot ratchet wrench. First time I took it out I used a 3 foot breaker bar and did my version of a breaker bar chin up.



Once you get it off, use Teflon tape so you don't have to torque it as tight.

 

[TitanMike]

Find some Kroil penetrating pil and "wet" the visible threads. Repeat a couple times a day and wait a day or two. Kroil is a great " creeping" penetrsting oil that will woelrk it's way into the rusty threads and make the task of removing much easier. Still will probably need the long breaker bar and socket but the Kroil will make the task easier.

As for tank lining-, if there's an anode in it I doubt there is a lining. Lined tanks used to have a plastic plug and no anode.

 

[caheaton]

Just I thought I'd post an update....I contacted Suburban and they agreed that I could bring it in to a service center to have the drain plug removed / replaced under warranty. My nearest service center is just 5 miles away, but fingers crossed that I can get my trailer back before December when we have a trip planned. The RV service center indicated that they're backed up right now with winterizations, but want me to drop it off Thursday so they can get me on their schedule. Will be required to leave it there.

For those that are interested, I've attached a photo of the drain plug as it is now....

 

[wmtire]

Just I thought I'd post an update....I contacted Suburban and they agreed that I could bring it in to a service center to have the drain plug removed / replaced under warranty. My nearest service center is just 5 miles away, but fingers crossed that I can get my trailer back before December when we have a trip planned. The RV service center indicated that they're backed up right now with winterizations, but want me to drop it off Thursday so they can get me on their schedule. Will be required to leave it there.

For those that are interested, I've attached a photo of the drain plug as it is now....

We had another member not too long ago with a similar situation. IIRC, Suburban may have told him they had some units that were produced faulty with the anode. Let me see if I can find that thread and exactly what it was.

EDIT: Here is the thread I was recalling:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/f...6delc-anode-escapades-271868.html#post2910202

 

[5picker]

Wouldn't hurt to put a few drops of oil on the thread area and let it soak for a couple of days. Might want to apply oil a couple of times a day.

A 6 point socket, 1 1/16" as I recall, an extension and a breaker bar and it should come loose. Don't bother with pliers, channel locks, end wrenches and such. You'l just mess up things including a few of your knuckles.

I recall stuff called penetrating oil of years back. What ever that is. Likely illegal to posses these days. I'd use a fast acting oil such as 3 in 1 general purpose oil. No motor oil or WD-40.

Then after you get it loose, use a wire brush in your drill to chase the threads into the opening. When you install a new one or the old one, put some anti-seize compound (auto parts store) on the threads. Install and don't over tighten. If it leaks, tighten it a bit more. If it doesn't leak, it is tight enough.

Bob

For those following along, please do not use anti-sieze from an auto parts store on your anode threads. Unless you can find "food grade" anti-sieze, most of that stuff has chemicals that you don't want in your water system.

Suburban recommends two full wraps of Teflon tape.

 

[RobbieH]

Agreed, don't use automotive anti-seize, that stuff is nasty! The teflon tape is all you need.

 

[Larry-NC]

Umm...

Wouldn't hurt to put a few drops of oil on the thread area and let it soak for a couple of days. Might want to apply oil a couple of times a day.

A 6 point socket, 1 1/16" as I recall, an extension and a breaker bar and it should come loose. Don't bother with pliers, channel locks, end wrenches and such. You'l just mess up things including a few of your knuckles.

I recall stuff called penetrating oil of years back. What ever that is. Likely illegal to posses these days. I'd use a fast acting oil such as 3 in 1 general purpose oil. No motor oil or WD-40.

Then after you get it loose, use a wire brush in your drill to chase the threads into the opening. When you install a new one or the old one, put some anti-seize compound (auto parts store) on the threads. Install and don't over tighten. If it leaks, tighten it a bit more. If it doesn't leak, it is tight enough.

Bob

Umm...I would not use penetrating oil or anti-seize compound on water that could be consumed. Anti-seize compound (powdered aluminum in thin grease) is meant to solve the problem of steel bolts sticking in aluminum engine blocks, ripping out the threads when you try to get them out (the powdered aluminum acts as the sacrificial anode). It has no benefit on a ferrous metal-to-ferrous metal joint.

Plumber's grease is safe but leaves a nasty smell/taste for a while. A safe option is the cooking oil or salad oil of your choice.

 

[caheaton]

Just an update...a big thank you to the forums for the tips. I managed to get it free tonight. I let wd40 soak for 3 nights, followed tonight by 2 shots of pblaster. Let that soak a half hour, then hit it with a 25" breaker bar. Came right out without too much of a fight. Relieved ...we have a trip down south in a month and was afraid I'd have to use our tent

 

[Odyknuck]

PB Blaster is my go to for all stuck fasteners

 

[2dogs]

Congrats on getting it out.
Tried removing ours only to have the outer nut unscrew from the anode rod!
Tried drilling and using an extractor bit only to have it begin splitting.
Probably try welding a nut to the rod next.

 

[aceinspp]

Thanks for the results I also rely on PB blaster. later RJD

 

[Tlmgcamp]

Wouldn't hurt to hit the threads with a wire brush before putting it back together

 

[tomkatb]

Using a pipe thread chaser afterwords is a good plan.

My anode did not go in very far until I chased the threads. They were not good.

 

[CHICKDOE]

Using a pipe thread chaser afterwords is a good plan.

My anode did not go in very far until I chased the threads. They were not good.

i agree that using a pipe thread chaser is a good idea. use a chaser, not a tap. i it is a 3/4 npt thread. then reinstall the anode using just teflon tape on the threads. the anode does not have to be torqued very tightly.