Another Newb Winterizing Question

[jdjeff]

I followed a 19FD owner video on how to winterize. Just wondering about something once the lines are all full of anti-freeze.



Since the pump is used to pressurize the system and all hot cold valves are bled and closed, the lines remain pressurized. Is it good to leave these lines pressurized until next year? Or did I miss a step to depressurize everything? If so, what is the best way to release the pressure on the plumbing without losing your fill of antifreeze?



This video here:

 

[Iwritecode]

If they can handle having water in them all summer long they can handle having antifreeze in them all winter.

I don't think it's anything to worry about.

 

[jdjeff]

If they can handle having water in them all summer long they can handle having antifreeze in them all winter.

I don't think it's anything to worry about.

Not concerned about the liquid...it's the pressure. Are these lines able stay under constant pressure like that?

 

[Iwritecode]

Not concerned about the liquid...it's the pressure. Are these lines able stay under constant pressure like that?

The pressure from the liquid being in there?

Its the same whether it's water or AF.

 

[jdjeff]

The pressure from the liquid being in there?

Its the same whether it's water or AF.

Are these lines able stay under constant pressure like that?

 

[Iwritecode]

Are these lines able stay under constant pressure like that?

Like I said before, yes. They do all summer.

If you're really worried about it you can blow all the AF out of your lines and leave them empty over the winter. There are some people that do that.

But it's not going to hurt them at all leaving the AF in.

 

[Flybob]

The pressure generated by the pump is independent of the liquid and the pump max pressure is well below the bursting pressure of the plumbing as stated above.

 

[5picker]

Or... if YOU have concerns... turn off the pump and open a faucet to bleed off the pressure.

No problem either way.

 

[jdjeff]

I picked up this trailer in september. I haven't had a chance to go out and use it yet. As it sat on my property, I relieved the pressure on the lines by opening up all the faucets and pushing in the check valve on the city water connection.



I do the same thing with my garden hose. I don't leave it pressured up even though it can handle 60 psi house pressure. My logic is it's just good practice and hopefully you can make the garden hose last longer. I guess it comes from years of working in an industrial setting where you "de-energize" pressurized lines for safety reasons and to keep from damaging equipment.


I'm using the same logic with the plastic lines on the camper. Of course they are pressure rated below max pump pressure. But since they are not copper lines and use plastic connections all over the place, my logic is that to minimize the potential for leaks over long periods or maintain the integrity of the plastic, it would be best to bleed pressure off when not in use. It just seems to make sense. It's why I wondered that once you get all the lines full of anti-freeze, should we bleed the pressure off from a high point in the system. High point to keep all lines full.


But nevermind, it is likely a non issue.

 

[Iwritecode]

As it sat on my property, I relieved the pressure on the lines by opening up all the faucets and pushing in the check valve on the city water connection.

I actually just learned yesterday that this is not recommended as you can damage the check valve.

It's mentioned on the 2nd AND 4th pages here:

https://www.bandbmolders.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Nautilus-P1-User-Instructions.pdf

 

[Larry-NC]

Applies to high-end RVs

I actually just learned yesterday that this is not recommended as you can damage the check valve.

It's mentioned on the 2nd AND 4th pages here:

https://www.bandbmolders.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Nautilus-P1-User-Instructions.pdf

That obviously applies to high-end RVs with that exotic Nautilus panel. The OP has a 19FD which surely has the same simple spring-and-ball check valve as 90% of RVs do. I've manually released the city-water check valve (as advised on this very forum) on our trailers for years with no ill effects.

 

[Larry-NC]

If you want...

Are these lines able stay under constant pressure like that?

If you want to bleed off the pressure, simply turn OFF the pump and open one of the shower taps. A bit of anti-freeze will run out. Then turn the tap off. By using the shower (highest point), you can be sure that you're not draining the lines and admitting air (not that it matters).

You could actually leave the tap open, but you risk forgetting and turning on the water in the spring while it's open. If you store stuff in the shower as we do, it would get wet.

 

[Iwritecode]

That obviously applies to high-end RVs with that exotic Nautilus panel. The OP has a 19FD which surely has the same simple spring-and-ball check valve as 90% of RVs do. I've manually released the city-water check valve (as advised on this very forum) on our trailers for years with no ill effects.

Im pretty sure it's the same standard city water inlet that all rvs have.

I've seen a lot of advice given on this forum that I wouldn't necessarily follow and I've also read about things that people had been "doing for years with no problems"... until it was a problem.

 

[jdjeff]

If you want to bleed off the pressure, simply turn OFF the pump and open one of the shower taps. A bit of anti-freeze will run out. Then turn the tap off. By using the shower (highest point), you can be sure that you're not draining the lines and admitting air (not that it matters).

You could actually leave the tap open, but you risk forgetting and turning on the water in the spring while it's open. If you store stuff in the shower as we do, it would get wet.

Thank you. That's the kind of info I was looking for. Take care.

 

[Glampen]

We live in northern Arizona where it not unusual for a 45 degree increase in the temperature during the day. One day I turned on the bath faucet as the RV was sitting in the driveway and the blast of water hit the opposite wall. Since then I make it a point to leave the faucet open when the RV is parked releasing any tendency of pressure buildup.

 

[Larry-NC]

No need

We live in northern Arizona where it not unusual for a 45 degree increase in the temperature during the day. One day I turned on the bath faucet as the RV was sitting in the driveway and the blast of water hit the opposite wall. Since then I make it a point to leave the faucet open when the RV is parked releasing any tendency of pressure buildup.

No real need to do that. The water heater temperature pressure relief valve will release excess pressure for you quite nicely.

In fact, we see posts here occasionally from newbies who are concerned about a trickle from the water heater outside door or the TP valve and don't realize it's protecting them.

We also see posts from folks who insist on pressure regulators on city water inlets or air compressors used for winterizing. Their value is generally overstated. The fact is that the PEX piping and fittings are good for more than the 150 psi relief of the TP valve.

 

[NavyLCDR]

No real need to do that. The water heater temperature pressure relief valve will release excess pressure for you quite nicely.

In fact, we see posts here occasionally from newbies who are concerned about a trickle from the water heater outside door or the TP valve and don't realize it's protecting them.

We also see posts from folks who insist on pressure regulators on city water inlets or air compressors used for winterizing. Their value is generally overstated. The fact is that the PEX piping and fittings are good for more than the 150 psi relief of the TP valve.

If the trailer is properly winterized with anti-freeze, the water heater should be drained and the bypass valves should have it isolated from the rest of the plumbing system, though. The water heater relief valve should be protecting an empty tank with the drain plug (anode rod) removed.

 

[pcsdpo]

Or... if YOU have concerns... turn off the pump and open a faucet to bleed off the pressure.

No problem either way.

X2 - the problem with water freezing is that is expands more the colder it gets. When it changes from a fluid to a solid (Ice), it doesn't flow like a liquid, but becomes a solid block that is increasing in volume the colder it gets.

Here's a science project to perform over the winter. Leave one of your RV anti-freeze jugs outside where your RV is and go take a look at it when it gets really cold. Mine turned to slush (which is probably what it is supposed to do in the plumbing. . . )

I always relieve the pressure on my system by opening hot and cold faucets. It can't hurt.

 

[mrfikser]

Just leave the faucets open, if you loose antifreeze its okay, it will be replaced by air, which is fine...ideally what you could do if fill the pipes with antifreeze and then blow the lines with air so any low spots in by the pipes would be filled with antifreeze instead of water...Back to filling the system with antifreeze, there is no rule that says the system needs to be COMPLETELY full of antifreeze, it just needs to replace any water in the system that would freeze, so if the lines are blown out with air there might be some water left in the valves for the toilet, sinks, low spots etc and if that water is replaced with antifreeze its all good..Also don't forget to pour a little (a cup or so)antifreeze into the sink and shower drains for good luck

 

[Comanchecreek]

The idea of the antifreeze is to displace any water in the lines. No reason to leave it under pressure, and as long as you have adequately pumped it through the system, you can open all of the drains and faucets and let it drain out. You don't need to keep the system "full". That will not add any protection, although it probably doesn't hurt anything. Most freeze damage occurs at fittings which can't take the expansion of freezing water. As long as the antifreeze has passed through, you won't have an issue.