Bathroom faucet swithc out

[ronthet]

I replaced the old plastic with a residential style. All metal. All match up etc. but have a question. I seem when I hooked the water line back up, I not sure the plastic fitting is screwing on the brass threads all the way. It seems that it get hard to turn and tighten up faster than put it back on the old plastic fixture. Is this just the plastic fitting against brass threads harder etc. I do not think I am cross threading, but afraid it no on good enough.

Thank you for anyone that replies. I sure hate to think going back to a cheap plastic fixture.

 

[Larry-NC]

Make SURE

I replaced the old plastic with a residential style. All metal. All match up etc. but have a question. I seem when I hooked the water line back up, I not sure the plastic fitting is screwing on the brass threads all the way. It seems that it get hard to turn and tighten up faster than put it back on the old plastic fixture. Is this just the plastic fitting against brass threads harder etc. I do not think I am cross threading, but afraid it no on good enough.

Thank you for anyone that replies. I sure hate to think going back to a cheap plastic fixture.

Make SURE you are not cross-threading it. With those plastic fittings, once you start cross-threading them you cut new threads that the fitting wants to follow. You will have to hold it VERY straight and re-cut the correct threads.

You may find it helpful to take the old plastic faucet and hold it under the sink, where you can see it, and use it to re-cut the threads as you CAREFULLY hold it and the fitting straight. Once the tubing connects easily to the old faucet, re-try a careful connection to the new one.

 

[ronthet]

Maybe I should cut the plex pipe and insert cutoff valve and use braded supply line up to the faucet. That might require some plumbing tape etc at the connection. No sure hand tight would work with stain stell supply line. Or if I can get a wrench on the supple line to get tight?

 

[Jfkmvk]

Maybe I should cut the plex pipe and insert cutoff valve and use braded supply line up to the faucet. That might require some plumbing tape etc at the connection. No sure hand tight would work with stain stell supply line. Or if I can get a wrench on the supple line to get tight?

If you can fit a shutoff valve in, it might be a good idea.

 

[Larry-NC]

Basin Wrench

This Basin Wrench was made for exactly that job. But if it is cross-threaded, tightening is NOT the solution,

 

[Capacitor]

Make sure the rubber cone washer is in the female end.

 

[NJKris]

Doing my kitchen sink remodel in RV, I terminated the pex with sharkbite shut off valves as Titan Mike recommended, and I think I did need adaptors to make the braided faucet lines fit.


Got rid of the cone washer fittings entirely. Cost a few more bucks in parts, but was worth it.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Maybe I should cut the plex pipe and insert cutoff valve and use braded supply line up to the faucet. That might require some plumbing tape etc at the connection. No sure hand tight would work with stain stell supply line. Or if I can get a wrench on the supple line to get tight?

I find this to be the solution. Those white plastic fittings are crap!


Bob

 

[jimmoore13]

The way most nuts fit on the faucet, if the gasket on the end of the pipe is not snug against the faucet fitting, the pipe will move about easily...meaning it's too loose. If the pipe is snug and doesn't "rattle" about, it's possible that you are tight enough.

A lot depends on the taper of the male fitting on the faucet and the gasket on the end of the connecting pipe.

Put a towel down in the bottom of the cabinet, turn on the water and observe for leaks. Have a helper at the water valve to shut things off, and a second helper at the kitchen sink to open the valve and relieve pressure if you have a leak. This way, water won't flood your cabinet and the towel will soak it up.

Echoing others, if you cross-threaded the nut, getting a plastic nut on a brass fitting properly will be a challenge up in that tight space. If you are lucky, you can do it, but laying on your back, reaching up behind the sink, is not ideal.

The correct way to start a nut. ALWAYS turn the nut "backwards" slowly and gently while applying slight pressure. When the nut is properly aligned, it will "settle" or "seat" itself on the threads. You will clearly feel it. Stop turning backwards and slowly start turning forwards (righty tighty), and the nut should go on smoothly. There are some times when I'll spin a nut backwards 3 or 4 revolutions without it seating properly, because I'm not holding the nut squarely on the bolt or pipe. Don't give up on backwards rotation until the nut seats properly. If you don't feel it, keep trying. It's as if a ball drops into a detent. It's that noticable.

A possible work around. You could get a proper brass "nipple" at the hardware store to add to the end of your existing pex pipe in place of the faucet, then add braided hose to the other end of the nipple and to the faucet fitting. Working in the open where you can see and you're not in pain partially laying in the cabinet, you'll have much better luck getting the plastic nut onto the nipple properly using the technique above. You'll probably be able to pull the pex forward and work comfortably sitting upright while doing this. From there, adding the stainless braided hose should be easy. Use the same nut starting technique when connecting to the faucet...backwards first until you feel it seat, then tighten. Your extra stainless braided hose will probably do a 360 degree loop at the top of the pex when connecting to the faucet, but that won't matter.

That's a lot less trouble than cutting and adding fittings to PEX. But if you'd rather do that, consider using SharkBites to add the fittings. They are awesome. I've used lots of them over the years, and they have never let me down...on copper or PEX.

Good luck.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

I fully agree with what jimmoore13 said. Starting a plastic nut on a brass fitting can be challenging. Starting with a couple of turns backward until you feel the bump then you know the starting threads are aligned. On the other hand, cross-threading is a pain in the (you name the place).

If the faucet is loose on the sink, invest in a basin wrench. It will save time, and busted knuckles, and ensure one can reach and tighten any fittings. I carry one in my toolbox.

Here's what I did. This is a Sharkbite fitting for the PEX. Then a braided line from the Sharkbite to the faucet. Very easy to work with and those plastic fittings are eliminated. The problem is solved once and for all. Parts are standard from most big-box hardware stores. I've replaced every crimp on PEX plastic fitting in our TT by adding a Sharkbite and braided line to every fixture. I figure my plumbing worries are a thing of the past.

Bob

 

[ronthet]

Faucet replacement

Ok thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions. I want to use residential style so I guess I will go for it. I am not sure about all the connecting as far as if using the braided supply line hose from a cutoff valve on the plex do I need the white plumber's tape to wrap the faucet threads or will the rubber washer in the supply line work?

I feed the thread are not coming down far enough on the countertop to get my hand in there and wrap the white tape around it.

So, I will cut the plex install a stainless quarter turn shutoff, then add the supply line to connect to the faucet.

the Siver faucet is what I got for the shower replacement from the bronze one. I really don't like that is too is plastic and very lightweight. Anyone found something better that's maybe all metal.

 

[NJKris]

That mixer valve looks nice. Don't forget all that metal adds up in weight! I know I added a bunch of weight changing kitchen sink to a nice SS sink with metal pull down faucet fixture.