Skelshy
Member
Thanks for the encouragement. Today they sent back an excerpt from the manual showing the switch (that I don't have). I guess I should try calling and getting to someone who understands the problem as you said.
I noted on another site that you can disconnect the Climate Control Heater "heater cable" electrical supply wire inside the fridges interior light so that the interior light will still function but the "heater cable" will no longer drain the battery. They both just happen to be on the same electrical feed wire from the controller.
Not sure why they would eliminate the switch but I know from experience that door heater, as I call it, will drain a single battery overnight.
We will be performing this easy modification to his to prevent this parasitic current draw:
New Dometic refrigerator problem - Page 2 - iRV2 Forums
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herk7769 said:Dometic Refrigerator User Manual | ManualsOnline.com
here is the new manual.
Note Climate Control page 5.
Hate it when you get bogus info from the factory, too.
I kinda expect it from Dealers.
traveler2955 said:If I might suggest a book of pretty good value, here it is: Living On 12 V.
Living on 12 Volts with Ample Power
I'm certain it affords even the most knowledgeable an opportunity to learn more, and even refresh one’s memory.
And, no, I didn’t write it or sell it. But, I’ve got it, read it many times, even practiced a few of the ideas.Furthermore, it cannot hurt your pocketbook much.
Enjoy,
Mike
BBB said:This Dometic Climate Control Heater battery drain issue just surfaced on my friends first boon-docking camping trip. He woke up to a dead battery and we couldn't figure out why. I told him the same thing happened to me on my first dry outing and I found I had turned on the Climate Control Heater switch not knowing what it was.
This heater is otherwise known as the "heater cable" on the factory schematics and is there to help prevent moisture build up around the doors. His new unit does not have a switch to turn it off but all the factory schematics still show a switch.
I noted on another site that you can disconnect the Climate Control Heater "heater cable" electrical supply wire inside the fridges interior light so that the interior light will still function but the "heater cable" will no longer drain the battery. They both just happen to be on the same electrical feed wire from the controller.
Not sure why they would eliminate the switch but I know from experience that door heater, as I call it, will drain a single battery overnight.
We will be performing this easy modification to his to prevent this parasitic current draw:
New Dometic refrigerator problem - Page 2 - iRV2 Forums
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Killer info here, I just disconnected my wire to try to avoid the drain too.
Dry camped 2 weeks ago and fridge shut down 3 days into it.
Thanks so much everyone who added to the thread!!
If I might suggest a book of pretty good value, here it is: Living On 12 V.
Living on 12 Volts with Ample Power
I'm certain it affords even the most knowledgeable an opportunity to learn more, and even refresh one’s memory.
And, no, I didn’t write it or sell it. But, I’ve got it, read it many times, even practiced a few of the ideas.Furthermore, it cannot hurt your pocketbook much.
Enjoy,
Mike
The blinking led lights in an tv are borderline worthless.
Four lights only means the converter is charging at over 13.5 volts or so. Nothing else.
If boondocking is in your plan you need a battery monitor.
You have 70 ah of power available. My assumption is you would use most of that day one.
Thus, you are flying while blind with half a tank.
Maybe, two SOK 205 ah lithium batteries might fit somewhere. They have a built in battery monitor. That gives you about 375 ah. Should last four or five days.
We carry a Honda generator for long trips. Recharge every 3-4 days.
$3,000.
Modern trailers are high energy users unlike the past! We use about 100 ah per day because of the cpap. Also the furnace is a big user.
Study up. That switch is not the total problem!
Note I read this here: The RV Battery Charging Puzzle « HandyBob's Blog just not sure where to start at all
Thursday night plugged the trailer into shore power at home. Fri around 5pm disconnected and it showed a full charge (4 lights). Note I might have looked while it was still connected. Looks like it might always show 4 lights when it is charging.
Towed the trailer 100 mi for an two night, no hookup stay. Very light use of lights, pump, ran the furnace maybe 5 minutes in the morning. We were literally out all day and didn't spend much time in the trailer.
A real battery monitor is a good start. Think about getting some solar
Sat 10pm we were out out. Lights dim, pump erratic.
I have a 2012 Surveyor Sport 189 with two 70AH batteries. Where do I start, with a battery monitor?
Good info but you do realize this is an old thread started in 2012