Boondocking Upgrades

[EMace]

Reading back from the beginning of this thread... you've never stated which model of solar charge controller you have, nor which model of inverter.

Does your new battery have Bluetooth? I presume that's how you are knowing the SoC percentages. Will the BT tell you the charge current flowing into the battery? I would agree if you're keeping the converter online then it should be powering the fridge while the SCC is topping off the battery. How much current is the battery receiving in full sun, if you're able to see that?

The converter you have may also bring the Li battery to a full charge, if you repeatedly cycle the converter power. Resetting the converter will restart a bulk charge timer, and the WFCO bulk charge voltage for lead-acid is high enough to do the job for Li. This may help determine if you can get the battery to 100% for your testing - I'm not suggesting to live with always resetting the converter for normal shore power operation.

The solar charge controller is the Go Power GP-PWM-30-UL. Inverter is WFCO WF-5110RS True Sine Wave Inverter. The battery has a readout display which is how I am seeing the SOC and Voltage. I can’t see directly on the battery if anything is flowing in but I do see on the SCC that its pulling about 9amps in from the panel in full sun so that appears to be working.

 

[Old Coyote-FRF]

Thanks everyone for your help!!! So I’m pretty positive I’m going to upgrade to lithium first.

As far as second step, could I get something like the Renogy 200 Watt Solar Suitcase?

That would put me at say 390 watts solar and 200-300 ah lithium. Would this get me to a decent boondocking situation?

Anyone have experience with those solar suitcases?

EMace,

. I have been using the Renogy 200w Solar Suitcase in addition to the 190w panel on the roof, In FULL SUN I usually don't need to deploy the Portable Solar (Renogy SS), the 190w roof panel replaces all my power use. In overcast or shaded (camping under trees) I deploy the Portable Solar and the two combined meet all my power needs. This should put you in a "decent boondocking situation".

. I DO RECOMMEND getting a 10AWG extension cord for use with the Portable Solar, so you can move it around during the day to get maximum sun. I built my own cord using 10/2 cord (10/2 AWG SJOOW @wireandcableyourway.com) with an SAE connector on one end to plug into the SAE ("Solar on the Side") port on my TT. I also relocated the Solar Charge Controller (SCC) from the Renogy Panel to just inside my pass-thru storage compartment wired BETWEEN the SAE Port and the Battery. This makes sure that your SCC is ALWAYS connected to your battery BEFORE your Solar Panel is connected to the SCC (Very important to the SCC operation and longevity)

. I am considering adding an additional 190w panel to the roof so I don't have to deploy the Portable Solar as often (it is heavy and cumbersome).

 

[Old Coyote-FRF]

....The battery has a readout display which is how I am seeing the SOC and Voltage. I can’t see directly on the battery if anything is flowing in but I do see on the SCC that it's pulling about 9amps in from the panel in full sun so that appears to be working.

Mace,

. My guess regarding why you ar not seeing your battery fully charged is that the methods you are using to get battery info (in red above) ARE INACCURATE. I would HIGHLY SUGGEST you get a SHUNT Type Battery Monitor, they are the MOST ACCURATE way to see what is happening in your total 12V Power System. I recommend the Renogy Battery Monitor, as it shows all relevant Info on ONE screen without having to scroll thru different screens,

 

[65MAX]

Why are we now tied to E-fridge?

Propane/120AC have been the standard for years and are reliable. I realize the 12V fridges are cheaper and easier to install and maybe maintain too but for offline service, there's nothing like propane... at least in my experience.

 

[EMace]

Mace,

. My guess regarding why you ar not seeing your battery fully charged is that the methods you are using to get battery info (in red above) ARE INACCURATE. I would HIGHLY SUGGEST you get a SHUNT Type Battery Monitor, they are the MOST ACCURATE way to see what is happening in your total 12V Power System. I recommend the Renogy Battery Monitor, as it shows all relevant Info on ONE screen without having to scroll thru different screens,

Sorry I should have mentioned this but I did break out the multimeter to get the voltage that way and it’s the same as what the battery read out shows,13.3-13.4. Was 13.6 I believe when I got it at 100%.

 

[Larry-NC]

Advantages

Propane/120AC have been the standard for years and are reliable. I realize the 12V fridges are cheaper and easier to install and maybe maintain too but for offline service, there's nothing like propane... at least in my experience.

There are some advantages to compressor fridges. The only disadvantage is for boondockers or possibly those travelling many hours on the same day.
Advantages:

• Quicker cooldown
• Quicker recovery from door opening
• Less need to be careful about keeping it full
• Less worry about kids/wife window shopping
• No need to be paranoid about parking in level spots
• No need to worry about internal circulation fans, "chimney" fans, and which side the sun is on

 

[jlankford]

There are some advantages to compressor fridges. The only disadvantage is for boondockers or possibly those travelling many hours on the same day.
Advantages:

• Quicker cooldown
• Quicker recovery from door opening
• Less need to be careful about keeping it full
• Less worry about kids/wife window shopping
• No need to be paranoid about parking in level spots
• No need to worry about internal circulation fans, "chimney" fans, and which side the sun is on

As a mostly boondocker, I don't feel disadvantaged at all. It just took some time to learn the thing's power requirements and adjust. It works so much better than the LP fridges I've used in the past, I'll happily add the battery and solar we need for our situation. But it's frustrating that dealers can't or won't advise buyers on what is needed. The beast mode r-pods are specifically targeted at boondocking, but my dealer was clueless. I had to get the thing home and start the learning process (for which I owe a huge thanks to this forum).

I don't understand your comment about long travel days. We run the 12V fridge in transit just fine. It pulls less than 4 amps, which either the tow vehicle or solar can easily supply while moving.

 

[Aussieguy]

solar on roof works better while being towed, 60 mph winds cools the panels

PLUS not many trees on the freeways.
keeps working while you stop at rest areas for lunch or when you go sightseeing.

Cons...
ummm
ummm
ummm
gotta install it


Dealers and factory are in a transition.. guess they are still learning this too
otherwise they would add wiring and connections that would allow better lithium charging
Hopefully the learning curve for the factory / dealers will be over soon
otherwise they should at least include some subscription to Electrical Engineering 101



Lithium and good solar transform the 12v Fridge into a NON event
not hard to do either DIY or have it done by a experienced tech.

 

[Larry-NC]

Good points

As a mostly boondocker, I don't feel disadvantaged at all. It just took some time to learn the thing's power requirements and adjust. It works so much better than the LP fridges I've used in the past, I'll happily add the battery and solar we need for our situation. But it's frustrating that dealers can't or won't advise buyers on what is needed. The beast mode r-pods are specifically targeted at boondocking, but my dealer was clueless. I had to get the thing home and start the learning process (for which I owe a huge thanks to this forum).

I don't understand your comment about long travel days. We run the 12V fridge in transit just fine. It pulls less than 4 amps, which either the tow vehicle or solar can easily supply while moving.

You make good points. My comments was (as you note) directed at new owners who are led to believe that they can take the new trailer, as delivered, and boondock for a week. As you note, they cannot.

 

[jlankford]

To be fair, the factory set up on my r-pod was fine, and a good starting point. 10awg wiring from the roof to the SCC, and 10awg from the SCC to battery. An SCC large enough to handle expansion to 600W. They just omitted a PV disconnect. And the inverter cabling was good using 2/0awg and a 250amp fuse. I reused all of it with my upgrades.

The dealer installed a second FLA battery at my request and used 2/0awg for the parallel jumpers. And to the dealer's credit they suggested I should consider Lithium batteries but I should not buy them there because they'd be too expensive and I could buy them much cheaper elsewhere.

The main failing was that no one - not the dealer nor the FR tech support they got on the phone - could tell me how long I'd be able to boondock with the supplied system before upgrades.

 

[EMace]

You make good points. My comments was (as you note) directed at new owners who are led to believe that they can take the new trailer, as delivered, and boondock for a week. As you note, they cannot.

This was definitely true in my case. Started my search for a TT by going and seeing some in person to see what kind I liked. Dealer basically made the single solar panel seem like a miracle battery charger. Boondock til your hearts content. Went home and did my own research to find out it’s not.

 

[ppine]

I switched over to lithium and installed a new solar charger. I have not replaced my power converter. The unit has DC/DC charging capability but I have not run the cables to the alternator yet. The upgrade totally surpasses my expectations. Before a trip I use a lithium battery charger.

Just finished a 4 day trip with no hook ups. One 100aH battery did the trick. Did not even use the second battery. Used only one 100 watt solar panel.

 

[Larry-NC]

Controller

I switched over to lithium and installed a new solar charger. I have not replaced my power converter. The unit has DC/DC charging capability but I have not run the cables to the alternator yet. The upgrade totally surpasses my expectations. Before a trip I use a lithium battery charger.

Just finished a 4 day trip with no hook ups. One 100aH battery did the trick. Did not even use the second battery. Used only one 100 watt solar panel.

If your solar controller is Li-capable, the little panel can top off the battery, even if the converter is still powered and enabled.