Bunk & Electrical issues...

ehlerts01

Senior Member
RV LIFE Pro
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Location
Boulder City, NV
I posted this to a Facebook FR3 forum with no luck. Maybe someone here, who's not on FB might have an idea or solution.

I need some help debugging some power issues. Our rig is a 2019 FR3 33DS. The rig is plugged into our home with a surge suppressor showing no issues.
  1. Overhead Bunk - won't move or make noises. I checked the in-line fuse in the battery compartment, and it tests fine with a continuity tester. This happened at the end of our last trip but it didn't matter until my daughter and son-in-law arrived and are using it for them and their pets. We want to lower it for additional storage. I have tried cycling the key lock near the switch with no change.
  2. 110v issue - Some of our 110 outlets are not working.
    • Outlets in the bedroom by the cabinet shelf and the upper one for the TV are not working.
    • The one alongside the bed.
    • The main TV (outlet is by the washing machine).
    • The one on the dash at the passenger seat is not working.
    • All other 110v outlets are working, including the one in the bay next to the battery compartment. (Possibly a GFCI outlet)
    • The following outlets are working.
      • Next to the circuit breakers
      • Next to the refrigerator
      • Behind the recliners
      • Under the table
      • ALL GFCI outlets
I have tried resetting the GFCI outlets with no change. I am thinking about shutting off all of the electrical, waiting for about 10 minutes and try powering everything back up.

The 2nd issue happened when we turned on a space heater plugged into the dash outlet.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can assist me in debugging these issues more.
 
The overhead bunk issue is possibly a broken wire or loose connector. I would start at the motor and work back tracing the wiring to see what you can find.

Since the second issue happened when you powered up a space heater, I would suspect a tripped GFCI or a bad connection in an outlet. I would start by tripping the breaker in the panel for that circuit and resetting it, and then tripping and resetting all the GFCI's you can find and see if they 'feel' right (click/pop, when you trip them and click when you reset them). Then I'd start pulling the receptacles that don't work, beginning with the one that the heater was plugged into and check for loose and/or burnt wires.
 
Update on my electrical issue. It appears that the issue was in one of the junction boxes in the bedroom to the left of the circuit breakers. Toning the cabling, using an electrical tester, and some brute force in searching for cabling led be to the junction box. I examined all HOT leads and one set of wiring was showing different results whenever I moved the wires. Turns out, one of the wires had slipped away from the two other wires within the lug. Tightened the three wires with some pliers, replaced the lug and electrical tape and all is now working with no issues.

Now onto my bunk issue.
 
use your meter to measure voltage ... start at the motor that raises lowers the bunk
if it is NOT getting correct voltage look at the switch

look for any limit switches (no idea if they use them)
they may have installed either switches or or hall style sensors to make sure you don't squash something
if a limit switch is not adjusted correctly could stop the bed from moving

according to google's AI ... there is some limit switches on the mechanism?


AI Overview
Learn more

To install the bed limit switches on an FR3 RV, you need to access the bed lift mechanism, locate the designated mounting points for the switches (usually on the vertical rails), and securely attach them using screws or brackets provided, ensuring they are positioned to activate at the correct upper and lower travel limits of the bed; always refer to the specific installation instructions provided by the manufacturer of your bed lift system (typically Lippert Components "HappiJac") for precise placement and wiring connections
 
The problem I have is that the bunk is in the upright position and so I can't get to the motor to test voltages. Do you know how to lower it manually...???
 
The manual says how to do it...
look in the links ... make sure you get the right manual for your model


something wrong... the links to mauals are missing?

looking for it again
 
you got 2 posts about the BUNKS

links to manual are on this post
 
I have tripled checked each of the manuals that have "Bunk" in their titles. My control panel has no lights, a key (on and off), and a toggle switch for up and down. None of the five documents even come close to my bunk or control panel. Here are two pictures of my control panel and my bunk.
 

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Try calling FR3 "technical support". (574) 825-7000. They will be able to help you with your problem. Please post the results for all to learn....

Have your vin....they will need it.....

Good luck.......
 
I have a 2023 34DS and bunk switch looks like yours so probably same. I have had the bunk fail 2 times in the up position. The first time the dealer said it was the uplocks and after they adjusted them it worked fine. This was under warranty. The second time was a couple weeks after warranty and the bunk again would not lower. This time they found a ground wire pulled out of the switch harness inside the harness so visually it looked connected. It was caused by the wires being run under and holding up a furnace duct of which the wires cut into the duct and eventually pulled out the wire in the harness. I only say all this just because it looks good it might not be. The warranty was denied because of it being 2 weeks expired. Nice.
 
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Try calling FR3 "technical support". (574) 825-7000. They will be able to help you with your problem. Please post the results for all to learn....

Have your vin....they will need it.....

Good luck.......
I plan on calling them either tomorrow (not sure if they are open due to MLK Jr's BDay) or Tuesday.
 
I have a 2023 34DS and bunk switch looks like yours so probably same. I have had the bunk fail 2 times in the up position. The first time the dealer said it was the uplocks and after they adjusted them it worked fine. This was under warranty. The second time was a couple weeks after warranty and the bunk again would not lower. This time they found a ground wire pulled out of the switch harness inside the harness so visually it looked connected. It was caused by the wires being run under and holding up a furnace duct of which the wires cut into the duct and eventually pulled out the wire in the harness. I only say all this just because it looks good it might not be. The warranty was denied because of it being 2 weeks expired. Nice.
I will take a look at this later today. Thanks for the information on what to check.
 

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