miataroadster
Senior Member
I have a 200w goPower solar panel with 30a controller hooked up to two lithium batteries in parallel. I have the vampire 12v GE fridge that drains most of the battery juice.
I am planning to add an inverter and I am out of room to connect it to battery posts except by alligator clip, which is annoying coz of stepstair location of batteries. Any suggestions of busbar brand? Do I need to buy a pair- positive and negative?
Boondocking more often and longer now. Today six days and am thinking of adding another solar panel up the roof to aid charging batteries. However, I am worried roof warranty be void putting more holes up there. I got a quote for $165 install labor and I provide the panel. GoPower panel is pricy!
The other option is to use my briefcase 160w solar panel kit with controller. I got two different readings when connecting to batteries two ways.
I turned off the coach power actuator. I then connected the briefcase solar kit to battery :
#1. connected the positive alligator clip to positive post and negative to negative of parallel batteries before shunt. I got less amperage reading than just with roof solar alone! It looks like it (briefcase kit) is draining the amperage. Less than 6amps it read. Stand alone roof kit read 9.
#2. connected the negative alligator of briefcase kit after shunt and reading almost 15 amps!
So my assumption is #2 is the correct way to tap briefcase solar kit to my existing roof solar system.
Is my assumption correct?
I am planning to add an inverter and I am out of room to connect it to battery posts except by alligator clip, which is annoying coz of stepstair location of batteries. Any suggestions of busbar brand? Do I need to buy a pair- positive and negative?
Boondocking more often and longer now. Today six days and am thinking of adding another solar panel up the roof to aid charging batteries. However, I am worried roof warranty be void putting more holes up there. I got a quote for $165 install labor and I provide the panel. GoPower panel is pricy!
The other option is to use my briefcase 160w solar panel kit with controller. I got two different readings when connecting to batteries two ways.
I turned off the coach power actuator. I then connected the briefcase solar kit to battery :
#1. connected the positive alligator clip to positive post and negative to negative of parallel batteries before shunt. I got less amperage reading than just with roof solar alone! It looks like it (briefcase kit) is draining the amperage. Less than 6amps it read. Stand alone roof kit read 9.
#2. connected the negative alligator of briefcase kit after shunt and reading almost 15 amps!
So my assumption is #2 is the correct way to tap briefcase solar kit to my existing roof solar system.
Is my assumption correct?
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