Bypass water heater

[djglover7]

Forum,


I have Suburban SW6-DE installed that needs to be replaced (caught in flood, bad tank, corroded, etc.). Replacement will be done in three phases, remove, conduct repairs, re-install. We want to use the trailer in the process.



How to bypass and keep the cold water flowing?


Is it as simple as connecting the cold input to the hot output?


Dennis in Texas

 

[5picker]

Yes, it can be as simple as connecting the cold to the hot. Think about it... that's what happens when a tank is in play... the tank simply acts as the connection between the cold feed and the hot outlet.

If you have a bypass at the rear of your tank, you may not even have to connect anything... simply put the valves in bypass mode and remove the tank and keep using the water.

 

[djglover7]

I just checked and there is only a cold in and hot out. No cross-over. This was a DIY horse trailer conversion.

 

[CHICKDOE]

Are those connections on the tee fitting removable? Can you unscrew the tee fitting from the lines going into the tank? If so you might be able to buy a small nipple that you can screw into the tee fittings and let that function as your bypass while doing the repairs. Put a bypass kit in when you are fine with the repairs.

 

[djglover7]

Yes. Everything can come off the tank. It would be a simple task to place a pipe nipple between the cold and hot lines.


How does the bypass work?


I can envision two valves, one at each cold & hot?? Is it a 3-way valve?

 

[CHICKDOE]

there are configurations that use 1 valve 3 way valve (plus a check valve), two 3 way valves, and three on-off valves. in you case you have tees on the lines going into the tank rather than lines that terminate into the tank. this means you need to continue to allow water to flow through the tee whether winterized or not. i think the easiest for you is to install 3 simple on/off valves. put two on the short piece of hose going and out of the tank. then install a bypass line between the cold line and the hot line. put the third valve in this new bypass line. you could use a one-way check valve instead of a manual on/off valve on the hot water exit port. make sure it is oriented to allow water to flow out of the tank, not into it.

valve setting would be:

normal - valve in bypass line closed, other valves open. this forces water to flow into the tank, get heated, and then out the how water port. keeping the bypass valve closed keeps water from flowing through this line.
winterize - opposite from above. now you keep water from going into the tank but allow it to flow from the cold line to the hot line via the bypass line

 

[djglover7]

Thank you. Good information.


I have a space constraint. I only have about 1-2 inches between the pipes (tees) and the panel that covers all that.


When I do the temporary bypass and remove the tank, I will need to do some serious rerouting of lines.