Clamp-in valve stem tutorial

[wmtire]

We have many members who use TPMS sensors located on their valve stem ends where the cap normally goes. The manufacturers of such will usually recommend that you use a clamp-in (aka metal) valve stem for this application and replace the rubber snap-in valve stem that may have come with the rim from the factory. The weight and centrifugal force of the cap type sensors can/do cause the snap-in stems to leak/break. We have also had several members either try to install these clamp-in valve stems themselves or take it to a tire dealer who may not be familiar with such and do not install it properly. The purpose of this thread tutorial will be to explain how to install these clamp-in valve stems for those who may do it themselves or be in the know on how to do it should they get someone else to install and can make sure it is done correct.

We will start out with the very common TR-416 clamp-in stem. This stem will usually consist of a metal cap, valve stem barrel (aka body), a .625 rubber grommet, a nut, a washer, and a .453 rubber grommet. See pic below:



The MAIN thing to know is even though the stem may come with two size grommets, you will only use ONE for your application. You will use either the .453 grommet OR the .625 grommet, depending on the valve hole size in your rim. You will discard the grommet that does not fit your valve stem hole.

Most of the time (not always though, so you need to visually check) the TR416 stem will come with the .453 grommet already installed at the base of the stem barrel. This is because the overall vast majority of the rims you will encounter will have the .453 valve stem hole size. In this case you would discard the .625 grommet.

INSTALLATION:

For this tutorial I actually took pics of a rim that needed the .625 grommet for its valve stem hole. Because of this, I had to remove the cap, .625 grommet, nut, washer, AND .453 grommet (which was discarded)





You will install the correct size rubber grommet with the widest part of the grommet slid down to the barrel base/bottom. Make sure this is installed correct. The widest part goes to the bottom.



Now, working from the inside of the rim, push the stem thru the valve stem hole in the rim, being careful to make sure all of the small side of the rubber grommet comes thru the valve stem hole. This is very important. Sometimes you may need to twirl or wiggle the stem body to make sure the grommet comes thru correctly. You do not want any edge of the grommet folded or not coming thru the rim properly.



While holding the stem in the hole (and keeping the grommet correct), place the washer on the stem body with the raised beveled side of the washer facing up. Then screw on the nut with the rounded beveled side of the nut on the top side (the flat side of the nut will go against the washer).



The proper torque value is 25-45 INCH pounds. That's INCH not foot. Please remember this. You don't want to over torque this or the valve barrel base will actually cut the rubber grommet, and it will leak. You just want it tight enough to seal good, and put a little bulge on the grommet if done correctly. DO NOT just tighten it down till you can't do it any more or you will have ruined the grommet. Most of these TR416's use a 9/16th size nut.





Hope this helps and feel free to reach out with any questions or concerns.

 

[wmtire]

Saving this post for a TR-428 tutorial:

Ok, the TR-428 (and it may go by other industry numbers) clamp-in valve stem will consist of a cap, barrel/body, one piece nut with extended shank, washer, and .453 rubber grommet. See pic below for pics of one complete and one disassembled to see the parts.



The main thing that allows the TR428 to be used in applications where the TR416 cannot, is the size of the washers between these two different valve stems. In the pic below, the TR428 washer (left hand side) is much smaller than the TR416 washer (right hand side). This smaller washer allows it to fit into rim valve stem hole recesses where the larger washer cannot. You may encounter these type aluminum rims with this type of stem hole on many RV applications...as well as tow vehicles. This stem is to be used for only rims with valve stem holes that are a .453 size due to the smaller washer size. They cannot be used in any rim with a .625 valve stem hole.



You can see from the pics below, how the washer from the TR416 cannot fit into the stem hole recess on this particular aluminum wheel, thus the TR416 cannot be used.





However, the TR428 can be used here, since the smaller diameter washer, along with the extended shank nut does allow it to fit in rims with valve stem hole recesses like the one pictured above. The extended shank nut will extend the nut out from the rim too, so you will be able to tighten it to spec, without getting a socket stuck in the rims valve stem hole recess.

You install the TR428 in the same manner as the TR416, but take note of the washer. It will have a solid side and a recessed side. Make sure the recessed side goes down, so the solid side of the washer is what makes contact with the extended shank nut.





The TR428 clamp in stem will usually work for any rim with a .453 valve stem hole where a rubber snap-in stem is used. Sometimes it's better to purchase it, especially if you have doubts if the TR416 will work...although the TR428 can be harder to find. You may want to purchase them online and take to a tire shop when installing tires and or TPMS sensors.

 

[PhilFromMaine]

We have many members who use TPMS sensors located on their valve stems ends where the cap normally goes. The manufacturers of such will usually recommend that you use a clamp-in (aka metal) valve stem for this application and replace the rubber snap-in valve stem that may have came with the rim from the factory. We have also had several members either try to install these clamp-in valve stem themselves or take it to a tire dealer who may not be familiar with such and do not install it properly. The purpose of this thread tutorial will be to explain how to install these clamp-in valve stems for those who may do it themselves or be in the know on how to do it should they get someone else to install and can make sure it is done correctly.

We will start out with the very common TR-416 clamp-in stem. This stem will usually consist of a metal cap, valve stem barrel (aka body), a .625 rubber grommet, a nut, a washer, and a .453 grommet. See pic below:

View attachment 294273

The MAIN thing to know is even though the stem may come with two size grommets, you will only use ONE for your application. You will use either the .453 grommet OR the .625 grommet, depending on the valve hole size in your rim. You will discard the grommet that does not fit your valve stem hole.

Most of the time (not always though, so you need to visually check) the TR416 stem will come with the .453 grommet already installed at the base of the stem barrel. This is because the overall vast majority of the rims you will encounter will have the .453 valve stem hole size. In this case you would discard the .625 grommet.

INSTALLATION:

For this tutorial I actually took pics of a rim that needed the .625 grommet for it's valve stem hole. Because of this, I had to remove the cap, .625 grommet, nut, washer, AND .453 grommet (which was discarded)

View attachment 294258

View attachment 294259

You will install the correct size rubber grommet with the widest part of the grommet slid down to the barrel base/bottom. Make sure this is installed correct. The widest part goes to the bottom.

View attachment 294263

Now, working from the inside of the rim, push the stem thru the valve stem hole in the rim, being careful to make sure all of the small side of the rubber grommet comes thru the valve stem hole. This is very important. Sometimes you may need to twirl or wiggle the stem body to make sure the grommet comes thru correctly. You do not want any edge of the grommet folded or not coming thru the rim properly.

View attachment 294260

While holding the stem in the hole (and keeping the grommet correct), place the washer on the stem body with the raised beveled side of the washer facing up. Then screw on the nut with the rounded beveled side of the nut on the top side (the flat side of the nut will go against the washer).

View attachment 294261

The proper torque value is 25-45 INCH pounds. That's INCH not foot. Please remember this. You don't want to over torque this or the valve barrel base will actually cut the rubber grommet, and it will leak. You just want it tight enough to seal good, and put a little bulge on the grommet if done correctly. DO NOT just tighten it down till it you can't do it any more or you will have ruined the grommet. Most of these TR416's use a 9/16th size nut.


View attachment 294262


Hope this helps and feel free to reach out with any questions or concerns.

Thank you for the excellent presentation.

 

[Dwilcox]

I have 20" polished, forged, aluminum wheels on my 2006 F-250 and was told that bolt in stems were not avaliable for these wheels. Is that true? I bought 4 extra tpms sensors to use on the truck as factory sensors were not an option for this truck, so I put them on the snap ins and hope for the best when I tow the LaCrosse.
If not, do you have any suggestions? If you do I might need to come out your way and become a story for you to write up. [emoji6]

 

[wmtire]

I have 20" polished, forged, aluminum wheels on my 2006 F-250 and was told that bolt in stems were not avaliable for these wheels. Is that true? I bought 4 extra tpms sensors to use on the truck as factory sensors were not an option for this truck, so I put them on the snap ins and hope for the best when I tow the LaCrosse.
If not, do you have any suggestions? If you do I might need to come out your way and become a story for you to write up. [emoji6]

Please post a pic of your rims and where the valve stem is. Post number 2 above (The TR428) that I have not completed yet, are made for FORDS and/or aluminum wheels that the valve stem hole is is too close to the rim lip/edge for the washer on the TR416 to work correctly.


https://www.tireresources.com/chrome/tr428-1.50-chrome-plated-brass-valve-for-ford-trucks/

 

[lazyjj]

Perfect timing. On my way home Sunday 1/2 way through a 200 mile run my TPMS went off. Right front on my 5vr was losing air. I stopped and found the valve stem was leaking. Had a compressor so added air and made it to a Mavis Tire about 2 miles away. They replaced the valve stem and we got home safely. I went yesterday and purchased the metal stems as I know longer trust the regular high pressure stems. Will be taking my 5vr in next week to have the valve stems replaced. Tires were installed two years ago and new stems put in then. I assume the weight of the TPMS sensor on the steams cause an issue with the rubber high pressure stems.

 

[PhilFromMaine]

Perfect timing. On my way home Sunday 1/2 way through a 200 mile run my TPMS went off. Right front on my 5vr was losing air. I stopped and found the valve stem was leaking. Had a compressor so added air and made it to a Mavis Tire about 2 miles away. They replaced the valve stem and we got home safely. I went yesterday and purchased the metal stems as I know longer trust the regular high pressure stems. Will be taking my 5vr in next week to have the valve stems replaced. Tires were installed two years ago and new stems put in then. I assume the weight of the TPMS sensor on the steams cause an issue with the rubber high pressure stems.

I sort had the same problem with leaking. I had rubber stems and a TPMS screw on with "theft proof" caps. The only problem with those caps is getting them off when you want to add air. I did eventually rid myself of those anti-theft locking nuts.

The struggle and twisting of the rubber tips of the valve ends up loosening the valve core and causing leakage. I finally did away with the TPMS altogether and chocked the expense to up to RV education 101.

Next time I will either go with steel valves or more likely the type of TPMS that is part of, or attached to, the stem inside the tire.

Looking forward to the future thread where WMTIRE educates us on the latter configuration in terms of cost, effectiveness, etc.

 

[Dwilcox]

Please post a pic of your rims and where the valve stem is. Post number 2 above (The TR428) that I have not completed yet, are made for FORDS and/or aluminum wheels that the valve stem hole is is too close to the rim lip/edge for the washer on the TR416 to work correctly.


https://www.tireresources.com/chrome/tr428-1.50-chrome-plated-brass-valve-for-ford-trucks/

Here you go...
What you think?

 

[wmtire]

Here you go...
What you think?View attachment 294298View attachment 294299

You currently have a TR600HP snap-in valve stem in your pic.

Yeah, I think the TR428 will work good for you. I don't have any in stock currently but will get some Monday"ish and post some pics up for you. May see if I have an aluminum Ford wheel like yours in the scrap pile to use.

 

[Dwilcox]

You currently have a TR600HP snap-in valve stem in your pic.

Yeah, I think the TR428 will work good for you. I don't have any in stock currently but will get some Monday"ish and post some pics up for you. May see if I have an aluminum Ford wheel like yours in the scrap pile to use.

Awesome, I look forward to your post.

 

[lazyjj]

You currently have a TR600HP snap-in valve stem in your pic.

Yeah, I think the TR428 will work good for you. I don't have any in stock currently but will get some Monday"ish and post some pics up for you. May see if I have an aluminum Ford wheel like yours in the scrap pile to use.

I took one wheel to tire shop today and had metal stem installed. Can you tell by the attached pic if the placement of the washer looks ok. I was a little concerned with where the inside edge of the washer is located due to the radiant edge of the rim being close to it. I used TR416 model.

 

[wmtire]

I took one wheel to tire shop today and had metal stem installed. Can you tell by the attached pic if the placement of the washer looks ok. I was a little concerned with where the inside edge of the washer is located due to the radiant edge of the rim being close to it. I used TR416 model.

I honestly can't tell from the pic. Can you take some more closer up/clearer pics from several angles around that washer? Thanks

This reminds me to order some TR-428's today to finish up post #2.

 

[wmtire]

OK, I got some TR428 valve stems in today and edited my post #2 above to show the installation of these. Hope it helps

 

[disoswam]

SCHRADER TPMS Retrofit Kit for Passenger Cars and Light Truck
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X575DWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[RV Tailors]

Discount Tire

My story....

I've taken 1 motorhome and 3 trailers to Discount Tires over the years and they allowed me to watch over their shoulders as they installed the metal valve stems to replace the rubber ones. The last two times I had to order the valves from Amazon because they were out of them. Never had a problem. I had them balance the tires with the tpms installed. They said noone asks for that. Why not?

I also got rid of the tpms security caps because I take them off when we arrive at our destination. They're a pain anyway. If you leave the tpms on the disk batteries run down.

Only one time the guy put the tpms on too tight and wrecked the painfully small washer. Had replacements, no problem.

Thanks for the wonderful post.

 

[jdkbrooks]

I set mine up 6 years ago and all I did was setup a tire with a sensor and then screw it on the proper valve stem has been working great since didn't know it has gotten so complicated

 

[Rob0702]

Clamp-in Valve Stem Tutorial

Great information here! Thanks for the tutorial!

 

[wmtire]

Another clamp-in valve stem you may encounter is the ones that actually have an inner and outer rubber grommet (although some have ONE grommet that has to be installed special). They also have two nuts that are installed from inside of the rim. You may see these type stem referred to as Inner-Mount or more commonly referred to from their trade name of ENKEI stems.

Members may use this type stem or have it installed in rims where the TR416 explained in post # 1 does not work due to the rim design.

I personally do not like/recommend these types of stems due to the two grommets and the fact you can ONLY tighten it from inside the rim. Once a tire is mounted, if you need to tighten it up to maybe get a better seal, you have to break the tire back down to get to the nuts. The other type of clamp-in valve stems with the outer nut only (Posts #1 and #2) will allow you to tighten the stem without breaking the tire back down. I also have seen in my business experience, several of the ENKEI stems leaking.

I will purchase an ENKEI stem and update this post with installation pics of one in near future

 

[wmtire]

OK, going to add a few things, mainly on terminology so members do not get confused on some things, especially what is a "rubber" snap-in valve stem vs a "metal" clamp-in valve stem.

The terms "rubber' and "metal" can be a misnomer, and actually confuse the issue as I will explain further, using the catalog pics below:

Snap-in valves stems are installed by force to compress the rubber and basically snap-in to the valve stem hole. Even these snap-in valve stems actually have a brass metal body/barrel internally. You can see the thread end of this brass barrel on the fully rubber coated snap-in stems when you remove the valve cap, as well as see this barrel more exposed on the high pressure (aka HP) TR600 stems in the pic below. You have to have this brass/metal barrel to screw the actual valve core into to allow air in/out of the tire.

Many people also confuse the TR600HP valves stems for "metal" stems cause they don't consider it rubber since it's not fully rubber coated as say a TR413 is. However BOTH of these stems are snap-in stems and the 600HP should not be confused with a clamp-in stem or "metal" stem.



Now we will discuss what is a clamp-in (aka bolt-in) stem. These type stems are installed into the rim via a screw on nut(s). This nut(s) (depending on type) is either installed from the outside of the rim or the inside of the rim (aka ENKEI type). See the catalog pics below that shows the outer screw and inner screw types of clamp-in valve stems.

You may see these types of valve stems referred to as clamp-in, bolt-in, screw-in, or "metal" valve stems. These type stems are more rigid and are used for higher psi applications than a snap-in stem is.

Even though people refer to them as "metal", they still have rubber grommets to make the seal.

This is why the terminology of "rubber" and "metal" can lead to confusion when discussing valve stem types. It is better to use the tire biz terms of SNAP-IN or CLAMP-IN/BOLT-IN when discussing valve stems to hopefully not confuse the types.

 

[wmtire]

Finally getting around to updating posts 18 and 19 above.