Dead batteries…can’t open basement doors?

TX_Dynaquest

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Joined
Dec 17, 2022
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Ugh. Apparently my storage facility blew a breaker some days ago and was never reset. Got over there today (22 Dynaquest XL) to find the batteries dead. Had them reset the breaker and now the outlet (110) is hot again. Now, due to the batteries being drained, the basement doors will NOT open with the remote. I’ve tried every key on both key rings and none of them will unlock the basement doors. Should there have been a key to these - always used the remote for locking and unlocking. That being said, there is no way to jump start since the doors are locked. There is no communication with the app to try and start the generator to charge faster. The chassis batteries (AGM) are as dead as the coach batteries (lithium). And of course it’s under cover so solar not doing anything for it either.

So, now that it’s powered back up, how long should it take to get enough charge so that the coach can communicate with the app. How long should it be before I can either start the rig or the generator. And IS there a separate key for the basement doors?

Ugh. And thank you!
 
Ugh. Apparently my storage facility blew a breaker some days ago and was never reset. Got over there today (22 Dynaquest XL) to find the batteries dead. Had them reset the breaker and now the outlet (110) is hot again. Now, due to the batteries being drained, the basement doors will NOT open with the remote. I’ve tried every key on both key rings and none of them will unlock the basement doors. Should there have been a key to these - always used the remote for locking and unlocking. That being said, there is no way to jump start since the doors are locked. There is no communication with the app to try and start the generator to charge faster. The chassis batteries (AGM) are as dead as the coach batteries (lithium). And of course it’s under cover so solar not doing anything for it either.

So, now that it’s powered back up, how long should it take to get enough charge so that the coach can communicate with the app. How long should it be before I can either start the rig or the generator. And IS there a separate key for the basement doors?

Ugh. And thank you!

So, your storage facility only provides you with 110/120 volt AC power.
Your rig was not hooked up to shore power for several days, but I have to ask….what were all the things you had running while in storage…..both AC and DC powered items?
Healthy idle batteries should last longer than your reported outage as long as they’re not being drained.
 
So, your storage facility only provides you with 110/120 volt AC power.
Your rig was not hooked up to shore power for several days, but I have to ask….what were all the things you had running while in storage…..both AC and DC powered items?
Healthy idle batteries should last longer than your reported outage as long as they’re not being drained.

To my knowledge, the only there ever left on is the residential fridge. I have gone a few days before, but it’s likely been a week without power. No Firefly, nothing seems to have power. Thanks for the response.
 
Sounds like it is time to get a locksmith out there to pick a lock and open it up for you. Also might be a good time to have him make some keys for you.

Don't forget to have some sort of "proof of ownership" he can see.
 
To my knowledge, the only there ever left on is the residential fridge. I have gone a few days before, but it’s likely been a week without power. No Firefly, nothing seems to have power. Thanks for the response.

Okay. Now we’re getting the bigger picture of your problem when you leave your rig in storage (plugged into shore power)
1. You leave the residential (120 VAC) fridge running. Not sure why.
2. Your rig probably has an INVERTER to power the refrigerator from your batteries. Probably your house and chassis batteries are bridged, so they all died.
3. Not a good thing to ever drain batteries completely dead.

Not sure if they’ll ever recover, both your house and chassis batteries.
Given you have so many electronic controls for various operations, power locks, no power for remote app, no power to start the generator…….I would suggest turning OFF everything while in storage. That way, only the CONVERTER can trickle charge your batteries so they’ll be ready when you visit the rig, providing power to all the things you can’t access now.

As far as your key issue…..I have no idea.

Just my thought.
 
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you can try ....

if you are not seeing battery power ....
Lithium batteries may have gone to sleep

get a jumper battery and connect it to the starter get engine running
lithium may see some 12v charge from have motor running?

otherwise jump start the house batteries .... take the jumper battery inside and connect it to the 12v fuse panel (since you cant open the compartment)


Make sure battery disconnect switch is set correct
allow it to sit for about 10-30 minutes to get some charge back into the lithiums

shorepower should then see the batteries and charge them

other thoughts..............

shore power should power your 12v ... is there a disconnect switch?
are the compartment doors powered by chassis battery? if yes get the motor running

flat lithiums batteries ... will take hours to recharge
AGM maybe will take overnight
 
If you charge the chassis batteries, you can press and hold the emergency start switch to pair house and chassis to start the generator
 
Forgetting that Freightliner had “jump studs” under the hood, I was able to jump start the rig (could not access batteries in the basement door). After running a few mins, Firefly came to life and I was able to start the generator and fully charge the house batteries. I’ve gone back and forth with Bradley and Parts, they gave me the correct key type and number and has been ordered. Always relied on the remote to lock and unlock, lesson learned. Charger shows that it is currently on “float”, so I believe this is put to rest.

Check your keys in the event you rely on that key fob! Ugh.

Thank you again for the responses in getting me to the right place.
 
Forgetting that Freightliner had “jump studs” under the hood, I was able to jump start the rig (could not access batteries in the basement door). After running a few mins, Firefly came to life and I was able to start the generator and fully charge the house batteries. I’ve gone back and forth with Bradley and Parts, they gave me the correct key type and number and has been ordered. Always relied on the remote to lock and unlock, lesson learned. Charger shows that it is currently on “float”, so I believe this is put to rest.

Check your keys in the event you rely on that key fob! Ugh.

Thank you again for the responses in getting me to the right place.

Glad you got it resolved.
 
I would want to know why the chassis battery went flat
how long was it in storage

If you store for several months... Disconnect the AGM
put a small maintenance charger on it if you are gone for more than 3 months
don't rely on some "smart" Battery manager that has clearly not done it's job.

How old is the AGM ... is it time for a new one?
 
I'm glad you have it figured out. Now comes the most important question. Where will you store those keys?

It's not as easy to answer that question as it seems. As keyrings and fobs and remotes get bigger, the tendency to leave them out of your pocket increases. And with a motor home...even with a TOAD...that tendency can lead to leaving the TOAD keys in the cab of the motorhome, leaving the motorhome keys on the dining table, using your phone or a fob to lock the rig, and then having a battery failure lock you out of EVERYTHING. And your residential fridge powered through an inverter connected to the house battery raises the specter of lockout considerably.

If you are boondocking somewhere that has no cell service, you might be in real trouble.

I recommend a spare key storage strategy that includes being locked out in a desolate location.

I also urge you to isolate the engine battery from the house battery...especially when camping...so you can count on getting into the cab and starting the engine no matter what.

You don't boondock? Fellow campers and hosts in an RV park can't really help you other than by calling a locksmith, so your situation might not be as dire, but it's still a huge problem to be locked out of everything when you're on the road far from home.

:campfire:
 
All the more reason to still have one of these hidden, with all of today’s technology that can go to sleep and leave you in a situation……
 

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Might be a good time to run a pigtale to somewhere you can get to it to jump/charge the battery.

there was already a pig tail "under the hood" designed to allow jump start


even if this was just a ordinary truck... and if you can't release the hood
you can charge the battery by connecting the starter motor positive and the frame/body to a battery charger...

you just have to crawl under
hopefully not just before Milton and the outer bands are sending rain your way... Don't ask!
 
All the more reason to still have one of these hidden, with all of today’s technology that can go to sleep and leave you in a situation……

You I've used them for over 50 yrs and still do but my first back up is an extra set I had made up at a local locksmith and leave in our toad.
 
As far as keys and key fobs, I like using the key in the door tumblers to unlock the vehicle to keep the tumblers from freezing up, either ice, or dirt and gunk. Jon
 
You I've used them for over 50 yrs and still do but my first back up is an extra set I had made up at a local locksmith and leave in our toad.

…..and if others are like we were when we would Snowbird in Florida…..the toad is locked up, once we’re back at the RV park. Having spare keys inside the toad that fit the motorhome are still inaccessible. There’s no telling when remotes will stop working. It’s always best to have a hide-a-key somewhere on the vehicle.

Just sayin’.
 
I had one of those magnetic key holders. It fell off as I drove over a corrugated wildlife guard or down any local road which are all about as rough. I now hide a spare key using black tape and disguising the whole thing so that even though I think I know where it is, I can no longer find it…
 
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I have a contiuing problem at my storage facility. The shore hookup (120v) outlet has ground fault sensing. A number of times the GFC has tripped when another rig has returned and gets connected. My coach will not charge batteries if the salesman's switch is off and my coach battery drain is about 1 amp continuous. The facility manager has put all rigs on timers set for on time of 2 hours per day.
A year ago the GFC tripped and by the time I got to the rig all the batteries were dead. I had to replace every battery! My solution to these problems is to turn on autogen and remove the shore power timer.

Gary
 
there was already a pig tail "under the hood" designed to allow jump start


even if this was just a ordinary truck... and if you can't release the hood
you can charge the battery by connecting the starter motor positive and the frame/body to a battery charger...

you just have to crawl under
hopefully not just before Milton and the outer bands are sending rain your way... Don't ask!
I was referring to the OP who said he had no way to get to the battery.
 

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