I recently bought a new 2024 Forest River 174BHLE Salem FSX Travel Trailer from Bayird RV in Mt. Home, Arkansas. I asked the salesman if the refrigerator ran on propane as well as 110 volt. I wanted to be able to keep food cold on the way to the campsite. He said it ran on 12 volt and 110 volt. That was fine with me. Like I said I just wanted to keep food cold while traveling.
We signed the contract for the rv and the next day I discovered the refrigerator only worked on 110 volt. The salesman said they could put an inverter in to power the refrigerator. At first they wanted to charge me, but then agreed to install it at no cost. The first time I tried to power the refrigerator with battery the inverter “beeped” several times and then quit. The decided to pull the refrigerator out and look at all the connections that were made there and as well other splices.
The refrigerator is the typical 4 cu ft model with the tiny freezer. The dealer install a 600 watt Xantrx Inverter and a PROwatt SW Auto Transfer Switch. The thick cables (maybe 10 gauge) running from the inverter to the battery has 15 amp inline fuse spliced in using a much thinner wire. Inside the 15 amp case was a blown 30 amp fuse. Some of the new connections were made with wire nuts and electrical tape.
I would appreciate any input on what I’ve described.
I’ve attached some photos which should be self explanatory.
We signed the contract for the rv and the next day I discovered the refrigerator only worked on 110 volt. The salesman said they could put an inverter in to power the refrigerator. At first they wanted to charge me, but then agreed to install it at no cost. The first time I tried to power the refrigerator with battery the inverter “beeped” several times and then quit. The decided to pull the refrigerator out and look at all the connections that were made there and as well other splices.
The refrigerator is the typical 4 cu ft model with the tiny freezer. The dealer install a 600 watt Xantrx Inverter and a PROwatt SW Auto Transfer Switch. The thick cables (maybe 10 gauge) running from the inverter to the battery has 15 amp inline fuse spliced in using a much thinner wire. Inside the 15 amp case was a blown 30 amp fuse. Some of the new connections were made with wire nuts and electrical tape.
I would appreciate any input on what I’ve described.
I’ve attached some photos which should be self explanatory.