Did a test...need advice

[Spower001]

I am headed to Pennsylvania cold in a few days. I am worried about keep my enclosed underbelly warm!
I did a test last night where I am currently at.
I put a temp sensor inside the underbelly about 1/3 of the way from front of trailer where tanks are located.
I did not run heat all night.
The temp in underbelly was the same as the outside temp (36*)! I was told it was insulated but it is not!
This morning i started the furnace....inside RV warms up fast, the underbelly went up one degree! Or maybe not, it is matching what the outside temp is.

Question.....can I try to find an area inside the underbelly and put a space heater with a thermostat in there?

When I get to PA I do plan to put up foam board enclosing the trailer bottom but that most likely won't be enough against 20 degree weather.

Ideas?

 

[5picker]

Even areas insulated, without added heat, are going to get to ambient temperature.
Without added heat, don't expect the underbelly to be warmer than ambient just because it is supposedly insulated.

Even then, that insulation is thin, can have areas of no coverage and just poor insulating factors.

Can you put a space heater in the underbelly?... only you can determine that as EVERY R/V is different and it is a rats nest in the underbelly if you have not had it open to look.

I live in SW PA and we are expecting some mighty cold days over the next couple weeks. Temperatures near 10ºF. You really need to think about what you plan to do.
Are you planning to stay in it for lengths without it being winterized?

 

[Spower001]

Even areas insulated, without added heat, are going to get to ambient temperature.
Without added heat, don't expect the underbelly to be warmer than ambient just because it is supposedly insulated.

Even then, that insulation is thin, can have areas of no coverage and just poor insulating factors.

Can you put a space heater in the underbelly?... only you can determine that as EVERY R/V is different and it is a rats nest in the underbelly if you have not had it open to look.

I live in SW PA and we are expecting some mighty cold days over the next couple weeks. Temperatures near 10ºF. You really need to think about what you plan to do.
Are you planning to stay in it for lengths without it being winterized?

So like I said, it is not insulated down there! That is my concern.
Yes, I live in my RV. I will be in a campground. Very curious to know what others are doing.

 

[RhumbleFish]

Some 'heated underbelly' tricks involve disconnecting a furnace hose from ONE of the floor/wall fittings and letting the heated air from that fitting terminate INSIDE the underbelly... so long as the insulated hose is actually IN the enclosed underbelly.

Note that if you don't subsequently block the vent, this method will expose your interior to air from the underbelly, as when the furnace is blowing, it's increasing pressure in the underbelly and will push said cold air into your interior. If you completely block the vent that you took the hose end from, the pressure will slow heated air from going into the underbelly, but will find it's way out. You can actually control this by how much you close off the vent.

Clear as mud?

Hope this helps. Just my .02. I could be - and often am - wrong.

 

[Sunseeker16]

If you aare heading to the NW PA area (where I grew up) you might want to winterize the camper and de-winterize when you are set up. Long range forecast is below freezing temps during the day and teens during the night, and a good chance of snow each day.

 

[Spower001]

Also, which would be better, enclose the trailer lower part with the foam board or just attach the foam board directly to the bottom of the trailer??

 

[Sunseeker16]

If it were me I'd skirt around the outside edges from the trailer to the ground sealing as many gaps as possible and leaving some sort of access to insert a heater or heat lamp.

 

[emugel]

Question.....can I try to find an area inside the underbelly and put a space heater with a thermostat in there?

When I get to PA I do plan to put up foam board enclosing the trailer bottom but that most likely won't be enough against 20 degree weather.

If you are going to enclose the trailer bottom with insulating board . . . . why does a heater have to be 'in' the underbelly?

There is typically (way) more than a foot of clearance under the trailer. Make some sort of small opening (for access) - small hinged door? / small removable panel section? - in the skirting and place a heater in the skirted space. Personally, I would place two heaters under there, one front and back. And I would use ceramic heaters with:
1. temp control
2. tip over protection
3. over heat protection
I would also place a remote thermometer (Bluetooth) in the space so you could monitor the temps and adjust the heaters as needed. Also, I think a good idea would be to NOT place the heaters directly on the ground. Get a ceramic floor tile and place the heater on it so that there is no direct ground (moisture) contact.

I use this remote thermometer/hydrometer in my fiver and it works exceptionally well. I've compared it to several other thermometers and the temp readings are very accurate. (actually I use three of them - one in the main living area, one in the bedroom, one in the front storage compartment)
https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-Hy...ocphy=9032866&hvtargid=pla-2294269067960&th=1

 

[kenandterry]

I am headed to Pennsylvania cold in a few days. I am worried about keep my enclosed underbelly warm!
I did a test last night where I am currently at.
I put a temp sensor inside the underbelly about 1/3 of the way from front of trailer where tanks are located.
I did not run heat all night.
The temp in underbelly was the same as the outside temp (36*)! I was told it was insulated but it is not!
This morning i started the furnace....inside RV warms up fast, the underbelly went up one degree! Or maybe not, it is matching what the outside temp is.

Question.....can I try to find an area inside the underbelly and put a space heater with a thermostat in there?

When I get to PA I do plan to put up foam board enclosing the trailer bottom but that most likely won't be enough against 20 degree weather.

Ideas?

Living in an RV in Pennsylvania through winter is testing the limits.
1. I don’t believe any RV is truly a 4 season build. I may be wrong.
2. The underbelly of each RV is different model to model, brand to brand.
3. The RV furnace will consume propane at an incredible rate. That’s just the nature of RV furnaces. Will you be able to keep up with demand?
4. I hope you can count on dependable electrical supply from the campground, because RV batteries won’t support you very long. Is your rig 30 or 50 amp?
5. Are you hoping to be able to use your onboard water system for the winter?

Just asking?

 

[Spower001]

Ok, that is what I am going to do, skirt trailer with foam board and put a heater with thermostat in there.

Thanks!!

 

[Spower001]

Living in an RV in Pennsylvania through winter is testing the limits.
1. I don’t believe any RV is truly a 4 season build. I may be wrong.
2. The underbelly of each RV is different model to model, brand to brand.
3. The RV furnace will consume propane at an incredible rate. That’s just the nature of RV furnaces. Will you be able to keep up with demand?
4. I hope you can count on dependable electrical supply from the campground, because RV batteries won’t support you very long. Is your rig 30 or 50 amp?
5. Are you hoping to be able to use your onboard water system for the winter?

Just asking?

Answers.....
1 - Either do I
2 - Yup
3 - Probably rent a bigger tank if needed
4 - Will have dependable elec. 50 amp
5 - Yup, heated hose

Hopefully with skirting and a heater it will cut down on propane

 

[Sunseeker16]

Good luck to you. Depending on where you are going to be, PA is a beautiful state, even in the winter. It can be a challange in a camper, but lots of people do it.

 

[Spower001]

Good luck to you. Depending on where you are going to be, PA is a beautiful state, even in the winter. It can be a challange in a camper, but lots of people do it.

Thank you!! I am excited about going there. Hopefully I will learn what others in the park are doing to avoid freezing.

 

[5picker]

I wish you well. We love PA... except in the winter!
We live 12 miles from the highest point in all of PA and winters can be tough in a home, let alone a R/V.

The walls and construction of most R/Vs are not designed for long term cold weather conditions so be prepared to dress in layers.

You are going to need to skirt the R/V with at least 2" foam and possibly more, sealing it well. You are going to need to heat that area. I don't know what your Jayco Eagle has for shore power (30a or 50a) but regardless, you mentioned having a 50a shore power service to connect to. You are severely going to tax the abilities of that service to keep a large enough heater running PLUS all the things in your R/V.

You are going to burn through a LOT of propane. Plan on having a local propane company come and install a larger tank and fill it as necessary. (likely weekly)
Run your water heater on LP. It will help free up some additional electric and the radiant heat from the water heater will increase slightly as most water heaters get slightly hotter on LP.

Use a space heater in the R/V (or fireplace if equipped) to supplement the interior heating. but again, be mindful of the amount of electric you use. Toasters, coffee makers, microwaves and space heaters don't do well when all run at the same time.
Be sure to check your electrical connections often as increased electrical usage can melt prongs and outlets at both the pedestal and any outlet you plug a high current device in to. (such as a space heater)

Always make sure you run the furnace overnight to keep the pipes from freezing as "most" R/V manufacturers run the plumbing near the furnace ducts to get some radiant heat from the ducts. You may need to open cabinet doors or drawers to allow interior heat to get to the plumbing lines.
Be cautious of your fresh water connection and any outdoor shower connections as they typically have NO protection from the exterior cold.
Same with low point drains. (hopefully the skirting will help those)

Be prepared to put water in your fresh tank as many campgrounds turn off the water supply at times during the winter months to keep their amenities from freezing.

Be prepared to dump when your tanks get full and utilize tank heaters if you have them and 'hope" the sewer lines in the campground don't have a low place in their lines that freezes shut!

Be prepared to deal with condensation. And lots more as it gets colder. You may need to run a dehumidifier (using even MORE electricity) but as counterintuitive as it sounds, cracking a window or a vent can help a lot. Just the breathing of one person overnight can introduce as much as a pint of water into the air. Bathing, wet towels and cooking are murder on the interior of a closed up R/V in cold climates.

Spending the winter in a cold climate, in a R/V, can be challenging. I wish you the best of luck.

EDITED TO ADD: Be certain you have a back-up power plan such as a generator.
If the campground power goes out. (and power goes out more often in the winter/cold/snow storms) Things will freeze and bust quickly if you have no power to keep all those heaters running and 12v supply for the furnace.

 

[TitanMike]

Thank you!! I am excited about going there. Hopefully I will learn what others in the park are doing to avoid freezing.

The others in the park will be your best source of information as they have first hand experience with conditions THERE. Park management may also have suggestions.

I "wintered" in a 1995 vintage trailer south of Denver while waiting for a house to be built. Trailer was definitely NOT a four seasons trailer. Tank heaters and heated water hose got me through temps as low as -10F. I had local propane distributor rent me a large tank which they kept full for me.

You WILL use a lot of propane during freezing temps.

 

[Reverse_snowbird]

The others in the park will be your best source of information as they have first hand experience with conditions THERE. Park management may also have suggestions. .

^^^What he said.
Also, check to make certain the rv park water is on in the park. Many 'northern' campgrounds turn off the water in winter or when temps go below a certain temp.
You can supplement the propane heat with thermostat electric heaters, but that can get pricey depending on how you pay for electric.

 

[Aussieguy]

anyone mention install tank heaters...?


if you pull down the underbelly to access the tanks .....add Insulation as well

 

[Wes12345]

Did a test …

If you are skirting, you would be surprised what a couple of 100 watt incandescent light bulbs will do. It’s how we kept the chickens warm when in the coup.

 

[oneslacker2]

PA cold.

My solution to part of your problem was to remove the register duct and take the duct hose off for the night. We were caught in 17 degree weather and the freshwater line had frozen. The heat blowing out under the floor thawed everything out fairly fast. This was a few years ago. My final solution was to install a circular damper ( basically a thin piece of tin with a tab bent on it for a handle and a screw and nut on the other end ) on the opposite side of the register box. I cut a smaller hole in the register box and the larger damper covers the hole and then I reconnected everything.
Now when I fear freezing weather, I just have to lift the register up and raise the slide damper and the heat blows out in the underbelly and out the register too. If more heat is needed, I just cover the register with a rug.
I second the insulated skirting when you get here. It's cold here in SW PA. Stay safe and stay warm.

 

[DavidWJ]

Use a minimum of 2 inch foam board and a good electric space heater to warm the space.