Dometic fridge

[Kammy4868]

Hi . My refrigerator won't quit beeping. I'll turn it off for days turn it back on and about 12 hours later sometimes sooner it just starts beeping again. Please help ..this is a brand new rv east to west silver lake 26krb and 1 year old. I've had nothing but problems with this thing since day 1. I'm at my wits end. Please Help!

 

[Flybob]

Please provide some additional information.


Are you connected to shore power?
What is the model # of the fridge.
Do you have an inverter to run fridge on battery
Are there any error codes displayed, or sounded out in beeps?

 

[BehindBars]

The thread title reads Domestic. Did you perhaps mean the brand name Dometic? Or did you mean that it is a residential refrigerator? Can you open the refrigerator door and find a model number on a label, and post it here? Specifics about the refrigerator may help others help you.

 

[Kammy4868]

Please provide some additional information.


Are you connected to shore power?
What is the model # of the fridge.
Do you have an inverter to run fridge on battery
Are there any error codes displayed, or sounded out in beeps?

I'm plugged in at campground does that mean shore powered? Model # is Dometic DM2872RBX. No error codes and I have no idea how to count the beeps. It's just a constant 2 beeps with maybe 1 second in between another 2 beeps.

 

[Kammy4868]

Yes auto correct changed it and I didn't notice. It is a Dometic rv refrigerator.

 

[Mr. Dan]

Dometic spelling corrected in title

 

[BehindBars]

If the OP doesn’t already have it, here is a link to the manual for the refigerator model in question: https://forestriverinc.com/files/Co..., DM2682, DM2882, DM2683 Operating Manual.pdf

The manual has a very limited troubleshooting section, and I saw no mention of a beeping fault situation.

 

[5picker]

If the OP doesn’t already have it, here is a link to the manual for the refigerator model in question: https://forestriverinc.com/files/Co..., DM2682, DM2882, DM2683 Operating Manual.pdf

The manual has a very limited troubleshooting section, and I saw no mention of a beeping fault situation.

Well... page 6 of the manual describes a beeping situation under the category of Gas Mode. (Text color by me)

Gas Mode
• This mode provides LP gas only.
• The control system activates the ignition system and attempts to light the burner for about 45 seconds.
• DM2672, DM2872: When operating in GAS mode, the AUTO mode lamp will be off.
• If the burner fails to ignite, the CHECK indicator lamp will blink and beep.
➤ Restart the refrigerator if the CHECK indicator lamp is blinking and beeping. The CHECK indicator lamp and
buzzer will not turn off until the refrigerator is restarted, even if AC becomes available.

 

[Chuck_S]

Check the mode or power switch. Mine in on the front panel with a choice of Auto or GAS. (Maybe marked LP or Propane.)

If on Gas mode and the burner does not ignite the refrig will beep. Often 'cuz the propane is not turned on at the cylinders or, perhaps, a valve at the refrig.

-- Chuck

Refrigerator
Gas mode
• This mode provides LP gas only.
• The control system activates the ignition system and attempts to light the burner for about 45 seconds.
• DM2672, DMA4061, DM2872, DMA4081: When operating in GAS mode, the AUTO mode lamp will
be off.
• If the burner fails to ignite, the CHECK indicator lamp will flash on and off, and a buzzer will beep.
➤ Restart the refrigerator if the CHECK indicator lamp is flashing and the buzzer is beeping. The CHECK
indicator lamp and buzzer will not turn off until the refrigerator is restarted, even if AC becomes available.

(I see Picker and I were typing at the same time, )

 

[5picker]

I'm plugged in at campground does that mean shore powered? Model # is Dometic DM2872RBX. No error codes and I have no idea how to count the beeps. It's just a constant 2 beeps with maybe 1 second in between another 2 beeps.

With what Chuck & I posted (yes we were typing at the same time) I suspect user error. I believe they had been using the refrigerator on shore power since they mentioned being plugged in and somehow the GAS button got pushed on the eyebrow/control board.

I suspect if the refrigerator is placed back in AUTO (and there is good shore power) the beeping will stop.

OR - shore power has priority in AUTO and if the shore power somehow fails or gets unplugged, the refrigerator tries to light on LP. If the tank is closed as Chuck mentioned or possibly depleted and the refrigerator cannot light, the refrigerator blinks a light and beeps.

 

[BehindBars]

Well... page 6 of the manual describes a beeping situation under the category of Gas Mode. (Text color by me)

Gas Mode
• This mode provides LP gas only.
• The control system activates the ignition system and attempts to light the burner for about 45 seconds.
• DM2672, DM2872: When operating in GAS mode, the AUTO mode lamp will be off.
• If the burner fails to ignite, the CHECK indicator lamp will blink and beep.
➤ Restart the refrigerator if the CHECK indicator lamp is blinking and beeping. The CHECK indicator lamp and
buzzer will not turn off until the refrigerator is restarted, even if AC becomes available.

Good catch. The ol’ owners manual again comes to the rescue.

 

[medinapool2]

Well... page 6 of the manual describes a beeping situation under the category of Gas Mode. (Text color by me)

Gas Mode
• This mode provides LP gas only.
• The control system activates the ignition system and attempts to light the burner for about 45 seconds.
• DM2672, DM2872: When operating in GAS mode, the AUTO mode lamp will be off.
• If the burner fails to ignite, the CHECK indicator lamp will blink and beep.
➤ Restart the refrigerator if the CHECK indicator lamp is blinking and beeping. The CHECK indicator lamp and
buzzer will not turn off until the refrigerator is restarted, even if AC becomes available.

I have a DM2872, I had a similar question that you answered. My additional question is if you are at a site and have shore power, have setting to auto, will the fridge switch back and forth as needed? I am assuming with electric your fridge will typically default to electric? I am thinking i can test this theory out by turning off ac for a minute.

 

[RobbieH]

When the fridge is on Auto, it will default to electric, then fail over to propane.

 

[Willhound]

When the fridge is on Auto, it will default to electric, then fail over to propane.

But as a result, if you unplug at a site and pull away without switching the fridge off and/or turning off the propane valve the fridge will continue to run and burn propane. Useful in some instances, not so useful the next day when you arrive somewhere and find you're out of propane ....

 

[RobbieH]

I've never had a fridge go through propane that fast.

But on my current trailer, those worries are gone, my Dometic failed and leaked out all the ammonia, I switched to 12v at that time.

 

[TacomaJoe]

My fridge is on all the time. I have the trailer plugged in at home so its using 120VAC and when I hook up and drive away it is running on LP. At the campsite it will switch back to 120VAC if I have a hookup, or continue on LP if I'm in a primitive site.

 

[5picker]

I have a DM2872, I had a similar question that you answered. My additional question is if you are at a site and have shore power, have setting to auto, will the fridge switch back and forth as needed? I am assuming with electric your fridge will typically default to electric? I am thinking i can test this theory out by turning off ac for a minute.

Yes, as mentioned, in AUTO, the refrigerator defaults to 120v AC. If the power goes out, the refrigerator will fail over to LP. (provided the tank is on and not depleted AND 12v DC is present for burner ignition and the control board)
When 120v AC is restored, it defaults back to 120v AC. Even in the AC mode, it needs 12v DC for the controls.

 

[Chuck_S]

One pound of propane contains approximately 21,500 BTU and the label on my Dometic refrig notes 1,500 BTU/hour at maximum cooling. Mine is so quiet I can't detect just how high the flame is running but even it it's at max output all the time 21500/1500=14 or 14 hours per pound or 287 hours (12 days) per 20# cylinder.

These are really LP refrigerators with 120vAC auxiliary power and will always attempt to run on LP unless set to off.

 

[Willhound]

Yep....my comment about running out of propane was slightly tongue in cheek, but I have seen it happen. Buddy forgot to turn off propane, parked the trailer for a few hot weeks and came back to find his tank drained. Which he didn't discover until his next boondocking trip. The lesson is, always turns the tank off unless you want to leave it on intentionally.