Lippert 'Friction Hinge' Problem
We have a 2020 NoBoundaries 19.5. Since day 1, the door has been a problem. First, it would open while travelling even though it was locked and the deadbolt was closed. I tried to get my dealer and FR to repair it under warranty, but I got ignored. Since I used to be a carpenter, I did some troubleshooting. The manufacturer didn't mortise where the bolt and deadbolt should enter the frame. It wasn't locking the door becuase the bolts never were fully extended so that they could "lock". I ended up mortising out the opening and that was fixed.
The door has always been a pain the the butt to close. You need to slam it shut or push it closed with your palm from the outside to get it to close. Again, no response from dealer or FR on fixing it. The strike plate also wasn't mortised into the frame and the round headed screws fastening the strike plate were both proud of the frame and constantly rubbed on the door as it was closed. Replaced the strike plate, still no joy.
Then, last summer when the temperature got close to 100, I couldn't get the door closed at all. If it was closed when the temperature was cooler, you could slam & push it to get it closed. I was really concerned with that if I was in the unit, the temperature got high enough that I wouldn't be able to exit the unit. I was looking up attorneys who'd take my wrongful death case if I was ever trapped in the unit if it caught fire (and more fully jammed the door). My beneficiaries would be rich and happy!
So, as I was getting the unit setup for this summer I decided that I'd have to fix the problem myself. I did some research, and saw that folks either loved or hated the friction hinges depending upon whether they got a working set or a defective set. Mine had no way to "adjust" them, so I got out the
Dremel and fixed it.
On the uploaded photos:
1) This is the Lippert Friction Hinge on my unit. Note the circled areas where a "pin" is shown on each hinge, proud of the hinge barrel. This is where the change needs to be made on my hinges.
2) Next is my handy Dremel with the heavy-duty wheel to "remove" the pins in the hinges.
3)This is the "removal" of the pin down to the hinge pivot pin. This needs to be done on each of the three "friction" blades of the hinge and repeated on the second "friction" hinge (6 total on my unit). I actually ground off the friction pin so that it was below the surface of the hinge pivot pin in the hinge.
4) This shows all three friction pins removed to the point that they show an "oval" outline which means that the friction pin has been removed from the side of the hinge pivot pin. Zoom in to see the "ovals" showing in the divot (where the steel hinge pivot pin is gray and the aluminum barrel is silver).
I'll probably "seal" these divots with black silicon seal to keep dust out of the pivot pin area.
The bottom line is that the door works much better now, although much of the friction is gone. But at least I can operate the door much easier and safer. The downside is the door no longer can withstand a wind gust without moving. I maintain that the design for this "friction hinge" is flawed probably because of the different expansion coeffiecients of steel (hinge pin) and the aluminum (hinge barrel). So, when the temperature changes, the fit between the steel pivot pin and the aluminum barrel changes either to the better or the worse (or in my case from bad to worse!).
Sorry that I didn't get the last two photos oriented correctly. The hinge pivot should be vertical.