Europa 31SS Rear Slide

[gremlin]

So now I can be counted on the number of folks who have hit slide out issues. Just got into the rig to get ready for this weekends trip and the rear slide only one side moves, then it immediately stops and flashes 7 reds, which is synchronization error. Pulled the panel and attempted the reset procedure multiple times and only the rear motor is moving at all. So I'm now trying to figure out how I can access to the forward motor, do I remove all the exterior trim that seems to be on with screws and adhesive to get this? I can't reach it from the inside it's too far, and pushing the slide manually doesn't seem to work

 

[gremlin]

I've done a bit more work, I believe I can see the bolt I'm supposed to loosen here, the docs and videos say it's a 9mm but I can't seem to get a 9mm open box wrench to sit on it to turn it, I tried an 8 and a 10, and a 3/8" I think maybe I need to find an 11/32 or something. I'd love to know the part number of this motor I think it's maybe a Lippert 364262 that seems to jive with some postings here, but nothing specifically says the Europa 31SS uses this as well.

 

[bclemens]

Parts would have that....It is a slim rack motor. Don't recall if that is the right number off hand. We had a batch of used ones (if we replaced a single motor, we pull both) that we were sending out for free as spares. Not sure we have any left.

 

[gremlin]

It was on my list to call parts this morning, any thoughts on how I access this do I need to undo all the trim on the inside with a really long extension on the driver? As I said I can see what I believe from the videos is the bolt that holds the motor in but nothing I can figure out will turn the bolt, I'm not sure if it's just the angle and the lack of vision that's making it difficult or something else

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Here is where i ordered the replacement for a failed motor.

2pcs 236575 RV in-Wall Slide-Out Motor, IG-42 (10mm) Motor Assembly, 300:1 High Torque Gear Ratio Compatible with lippert Schwintek in-Wall Slide System (Three Year Warranty)​

Yes you will have to remove some inside trim and with the slide partially extended, the controller has a manual over ride mode, remove the screw that secures the motor at the top of the slide on the outside.

Download the manual from Lippert.

Bob

 

[gremlin]

Thank you Bob, you don't have a signature on to indicate which sort of coach you have, looking up that part number the connector doesn't look the same as the one on my coach, so I don't know if that's the correct part number for me or not. I've left a message with Dynamax parts so hoping they'll call back to let me know.

(Edit) I just heard back from Parts and the number I cited 364262 is the correct part number for my rig. I just can't figure out why I can't get any wrench onto that bolt at all

 

[mlmay12]

I've done a bit more work, I believe I can see the bolt I'm supposed to loosen here, the docs and videos say it's a 9mm but I can't seem to get a 9mm open box wrench to sit on it to turn it, I tried an 8 and a 10, and a 3/8" I think maybe I need to find an 11/32 or something. I'd love to know the part number of this motor I think it's maybe a Lippert 364262 that seems to jive with some postings here, but nothing specifically says the Europa 31SS uses this as well.

I contacted parts and Sara Brenner replied to me with that Part Number 364262 for my 2016 Isata 3 FW. It is the right one for my Isata 3 and I got one from Amazon that is a genuine Lippert motor for $325 that I just got to carry as a spare. Stay away from the Chinese Junk they have for about $120. Mine is held on by a top spring so I can't help with the wrench size.

 

[malmz]

Gremlin, were you able to confirm it was the motor and not a bad connection? I have seen references to both. If you access the connector hit it with 12 volts. You do need to remove either the inside or outside seal trim to get the motor out all the way depending on what is easier at its stuck position.

 

[gremlin]

It’s stuck in I cant reach enough of the plug to unplug it right now I can see the bolt but not remove it at all can’t get anything to turn it like it’s the wrong size but I’ve tried every size it could be.

I tried removing the forward trim around the bed to have better access but it doesn’t come off at all so it must also be glued on

 

[malmz]

Unfortunately, even if you get the bolt off I don't think it will help you much getting the motor out until you figure out how to get the trim and wall seal trim off to remove it.

If you get the bolt out, I guess you could at least pop the motor up enough to disengage it and manually push the slide out or in for travel or better access. It is strange you can't get a standard size wrench on it, did you try another wrench set?

 

[malmz]

Up by your orange clamp in the picture it looks like the wire harness is there. Stick your fingers in there and follow the harness and see if you feel a connector, if so maybe you can pull it outside of the seal to check it. (?). The picture of that replacement part number looks like the pigtail on the motor is pretty short. Of course there may be other connectors in the system, and you should also check the wire connections at the controller for the slide. I have no idea where that is on your model, the pair of them is in our Electrical bay on our 32KD.

You can see the motor harness connector on this webpage:

Lippert Replacement SlimRack In-Wall Slide-Out Motor with Brake - 42mm Mid-Torque #1510000227

This replacement RV slide-out mid-torque motor with brake #1510000227 is for Lippert SlimRack In-Wall slide-outs. It is a genuine Lippert replacement component, and it includes the motor assembly only. The complete slide-out assembly is not included.

www.lippert.com

 

[gremlin]

I've tried a snap-on, craftsman, and husky 9mm as well as snap-on and craftsman of all sizes around that, it feels like maybe the husky 9mm ratcheting one is getting a grip but it's angled such that I can seem to get it to turn even when the wrench moves.

I can indeed see not just the wire but the connection, as much as possible I tried to shove it back together but as there isn't room to get two hands there, it's not easy, and that changed nothing so I'm hoping its the motor, although getting the motor out seems near impossible.

I have removed all of the screws for the black trim in the picture and the trim doesn't move, so apparently it's also on with adhesive just like the other trim, which is fabulous.

 

[malmz]

You of course need somebody with firsthand experience. Now that I look at one of the Lippert videos, if you go from the outside, the trim actually holds the entire rack so that is pretty involved in supporting the room to pull the rack out. it appears you need to figure out how to get to it from the inside. Of course, the Lippert motor replacement videos are on demo rooms with no trim so the motor is fully exposed. I have touched on this here before, it would be helpful to have some Dynamax specific videos on how to remove the trim safely to get to the motors. Your access is pretty narrow once the inner trim is removed and it is a deep slide, so it will be some stretching and extensions to get the inside seal plate removed.
x2 on my 32KD thread on hot to even get to the rear motor on the main slide when it is in, there is even less room, and there has been no follow up on that question.

I hope you figure something out before your trip Gremlin.

 

[gremlin]

You apparently cannot move the slide outs with the motors broken, so you're stuck with whatever you get. For future reference to anyone else on my coach that fixing bolt on the motor is an 8mm not a 9mm we finally started trying all the other wrenches again and got it to move with an 8mm, I've gotten the trim off finally and the motor out but can't get it to line up to get the motor back in now. Need to take a break.

We did try and remove the window in the slide, as that would've allowed us to get maybe a bit closer but that didn't work I assume it's also sealed in from the outside which makes sense.

I know a few folks have done the VROOM replacements here, but across my previous 3 coaches I had 6 slides, including my previous bottom of the line BayStar Sport 2903 which featured a full wall slide that was larger than the front one in my 31SS and went flush to the floor when it was out, and none of them ever gave me moments thought. I do wonder which systems they used.

 

[malmz]

Once you regroup try to bench test the motor and let us know more about the trim removal.

 

[gremlin]

I did get a new motor today and plugged it into the harness, and it works, so the problem is indeed a bad motor, I managed to get the old motor out but the new one I cannot get in right now so I'll have to keep fiddling. Removing the trim was actually reasonably straightforward, although several of the screws were stripped so that made it difficult, and one broke off. I'll have to figure out what they are and get some spares coming. There were two screws that were hidden under the rubber trim that I didn't find until I started really digging, given how far back in the hole it is it's really hard. Also don't bother trying to use an extension on the gun, the angle that several of the screws are in at is impossible to get at with an extension on the screw gun I had to reach in with it to get most of them.

I'll take a picture of it off and post it.

 

[AZFoxes]

I did get a new motor today and plugged it into the harness, and it works, so the problem is indeed a bad motor, I managed to get the old motor out but the new one I cannot get in right now so I'll have to keep fiddling. Removing the trim was actually reasonably straightforward, although several of the screws were stripped so that made it difficult, and one broke off. I'll have to figure out what they are and get some spares coming. There were two screws that were hidden under the rubber trim that I didn't find until I started really digging, given how far back in the hole it is it's really hard. Also don't bother trying to use an extension on the gun, the angle that several of the screws are in at is impossible to get at with an extension on the screw gun I had to reach in with it to get most of them.

I'll take a picture of it off and post it.

Could you lift, or remove, the other motor so you can push the slide out to make it easier to access from inside or outside the coach? I had a two year battle with my slides so I know how frustrating this can be. Hope you get this sorted.

 

[gremlin]

Getting the other motor out is a battle I'd prefer not to commence, it's the rear of the bedroom would need to climb over the folded mattress and then see if I can actually reach around the trim on the other side of the bed, and do all the same stuff I've already done. What did occur to me is that now that the broken motor is out I could get someone to push on the broken side, while the motor worked the other side and move it out. I'm not entirely sure it would buy me anything though as (A) now the rod on the broken side would be clocked in some undefined manner so alignment would likely be harder, and ( I'm not sure you could reach anything more as it would move the trim up to the wall on the forward side of the bedroom and likely block more access than it revealed.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Manuals are a BIG help.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/slideouts/in-wall/ccd-0001602.pdf

See page 16 for the retention screw location.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/slideouts/in-wall/ccd-0001769.pdf

This screw is normally accessed from the outside and simply prevents the motor frame from moving. Once removed, you can lift the motor about 1" vertically to disengage the shaft. I found it necessary to remove the trim on the inside of the slide, top to bottom, in order to have room to remove the motor.

Once the old motor is out and the new motor is in, it will be necessary to go through the synchronization process. Maybe 2 or 3 times.

And remember, per the manual, always fully extend the slide, continuing to hold the switch until the controller shuts down the motors. And always fully retract the slide, continuing to hold the switch until the controller shuts down the motors. NEVER DO THIS...... no part way extension or retraction of the slide.

There isn't a lot of room to work so a good 4 letter vocabulary is necessary.

Bob

 

[gremlin]

Bob, thanks for the, but as posted above, I have looked at the videos and read the manual I could find, including those you listed, manuals it turns out aren't always helpful as the video shows that retaining screw as 9mm (or weirdly a #9 metric) when in fact it's not it an 8mm. The photos I showed above show the retaining screw and where I had access to it. Furthermore my slide is stuck in so access from the outside is completely impossible.

A little more success I stuck my phone in and shot a picture of the coupler, and found it wasn't clocked the way it was when the other motor came out, not sure why, but then I plugged the new motor in and spun it with the control (just overrode and held down the single motor button) and got it clocked the new motor dropped in. Now I have to get the wiring back and make sure it won't get pinched and try and reinstall the molding.

For future reference here's a few photos of the reason the trim block and moving it out might not be useful, along with what it looks like with the trim removed and the coupler I shot from above, thank god for phone cameras

Here's the trim that I couldn't remove as it seems glued to the slide out, you need to get between the wall in the front and the slide out, so moving the slide out out would probably block that access completely by that trim, as it was I was reaching around it:

Here's a view without the trim, if the circled cut was a little lower it would've made things quite a bit easier

and then here's the coupler in case anyone needs to know what it looks like