Everchill WD-282FWDC-6 Fridge: Bypassing Burned Plug & AC vs DC Replacement

[Greywuff]

Aggravated with fridge going into safety and not cooling for 6- day trip. Repeatedly reset fridge and ended up defrosting coil with wife's hairdryer. Worked for about a day and refroze. When I got home today, I removed the inner plate inside the freezer and tried to unplug a connector with a black wire going to either side of the coil. After considerable effort I finally got the plug disconnected to discover that one side of it had melted and burned off most of the clips that clip the wires together. I could not get the plug out of the freezer, nor could I access it because it is sealed between the rear sheet metal and the plastic inside the freezer. So I called Leppert for tech support.
Spoke with several people before getting to the correct department, and when I did I was informed that the plug is not replaceable, not able to be bypassed, and the unit is out of warranty. My only option is to replace the entire refrigerator.
I decided that I had nothing to lose at this point, so I proceeded to break the plug apart and remove the two wires from it. I ended up having to cut some to the plastic inner freezer wall to gain access to what was left of the plug. Upon doing so, I was able to expose enough of the wire to get clean, unburned wire.
With the help of a soldering iron, solder, shrink wrap, electrical tape, and caulking, I was able to solder the wires together and bypass the unavailable, unrepairable, unbypassable plug, and replace the freezer fan panel back into the unit.
So far, it has been operating perfectly for 8 hours. I don't know if this is a permanent solution or if I will eventually have to replace the unit, but if I do, it will not be with another Everchill product.

 

[Greywuff]

 

[GolfingDave]

I would try and clean/replace the terminal on the wall also.
Plastic panel is probably just snapped in place to get to the back side of it.

 

[5picker]

I would try and clean/replace the terminal on the wall also.
Plastic panel is probably just snapped in place to get to the back side of it.

I think they did.
From the OPs post...

I decided that I had nothing to lose at this point, so I proceeded to break the plug apart and remove the two wires from it. I ended up having to cut some to the plastic inner freezer wall to gain access to what was left of the plug. Upon doing so, I was able to expose enough of the wire to get clean, unburned wire.

 

[GolfingDave]

Ok. Was thinking he just messed with the male portion after looking at the second picture. Thought it was a before and after.

 

[Greywuff]

I could not decipher a way to get to the female portion of the plug that was pushed in from the back of the unit, between the plastic inner liner of the freezer and the metal back. So, again as I felt I had nothing to lose, I proceeded to cut the plastic liner ending up with a hole about the size of a half dollar. There was very little wire to work with, but I successfully obliterated the male and female ends of the plug, cut off the metal connectors, or what was left of them, and soldered the wires back together, essentially bypassing the non bypassable (according to Forest River) plug. Over twenty four hours out from this “repair” and the fridge is working perfectly so far.

 

[Greywuff]

 

[Greywuff]

Another question for those more knowledgeable than myself…IF…this repair proves to be temporary and I have to replace the entire fridge as FR suggested, given the fact that the unit is completely encased all around with minimal airflow, would it be unadvisable to replace the until with an AC powered unit as opposed to the DC? Or does the AC powered units create more heat requiring more ventilation? Upon online shopping for a replacement, the DC units are three times the cost of a comparable AC unit, hence, another reason why I felt that I had more to gain than I had to lose by doing this “engineering.”

 

[GolfingDave]

You would have to run new wiring from the AC bus.
You would not be able to run an AC fridge while driving unless you put it on an inverter circuit. Little amp draw until the defrost cycle kicks on, seven or eight amps then.

given the fact that the unit is completely encased all around with minimal airflow,

None at all? Mine at least has a gap at the top but sides are tight. It gets pretty warm in the stall but unit works fine. I did install a small ventilation fan on my sidewall for for the days it gets into the 90's. Put it on an easily reached switched cord. Must have used wall anchors or rivnuts for the screw attach.
Any fan couldn't hurt and would force some warm air out of any small openings.

Amazon.com

 

[Greywuff]

You would have to run new wiring from the AC bus.
You would not be able to run an AC fridge while driving unless you put it on an inverter circuit. Little amp draw until the defrost cycle kicks on, seven or eight amps then.


None at all? Mine at least has a gap at the top but sides are tight. It gets pretty warm in the stall but unit works fine. I did install a small ventilation fan on my sidewall for for the days it gets into the 90's. Put it on an easily reached switched cord. Must have used wall anchors or rivnuts for the screw attach.
Any fan couldn't hurt and would force some warm air out of any small openings.

Amazon.com

There is an unused breaker slot in the ac panel. It’s a very short run to the fridge from there.
I had thought about the lack of operation while driving part, but the longest run I have made with this camper has been about five hours. Cooled down properly before leaving shore power, I dont think I would risk losing food. Being a trailer, no one would be inside opening the door while traveling.
There is no room on the bottom or sides of the unit, fits real snugly, possibly 6 inches or so above unit. I was concerned that there would be insufficient air flow and might overheat.

 

[tomkatb]

An ac fridge would require an inverter if you wanted to use it without shore power. Yes you could load it up with gallons of frozen water for long day trips. Ice cream would be iffy.

In that mode it uses substantially more power than a 12 volt fridge.

So not the best plan.

The DW in our house discovered Harvest Hosts. So we rough it more often.

A small generator might help for rare ocassions.

All heat pump fridges were for the most part, designed to be free standing! Like in your house. Not in a box.

Fridges designed for a box in your home are different. Start at near. 10k. See Sub Zero.

 

[Greywuff]

My project for today. Install a 12v dc fan to move some air around. I figure it can’t hurt.