Furrion Backup Camera Question

[pefisher]

My 2024 Grand Surveyor 253RLS came with the pre-wired mount for the Furrion backup camera. I bought the camera (Vision S), verified it was properly paired with the monitor (it was). Then I mounted it on the trailer, verified it had power when running lights were on. Now, in the mounted position, it won't connect with the monitor inside my pickup. I have a yellow signal booster, mounted on the front frame, that I thought was supposed to boost the camera signal enough to reach the monitor in the truck. The yellow box seems to have power (a light is on in the center of it).

Any ideas as to why the camera is not communicating with the monitor? I'd greatly appreciate any thoughts!!!

 

[5picker]

The yellow box with the antenna (signal booster) is the repeater for a Tire Monitoring System and discussed here several times.

How long is your trailer?
My 5th wheel with the Furrion 4 camera system is 40' long and I have no issues with the rear camera or any of the side cameras with the monitor mounted on the center of the truck dash.

 

[pefisher]

Sorry for my confusion...I forgot that the repeater was for the TPMS!

The trailer is 31'-9", and I'm towing with a GMC Sierra, conventional pull.

Thanks!

 

[Aussieguy]

you can try a extension for the antenna?
like these -------------->Google Search

 

[JetMonkey]

I have a similar issue, my truck is a 2024 GMC Canyon. I would get an intermittent connection on my display. If your truck is only a few years old, it my be the newer electrical signal coming trough the 7 pin connector.

I was told by Furrion to use a piece of wire to jumper pins 3 and 4 on the TRAILER's 7 pin connector. That uses the trailer's battery to power the trailer's running lights and therefore, camera. Then go check your monitor. If you have a solid picture, your truck is the issue. Of course, there is a pigtail adapter made by Furrion that corrects this, too bad they don't give potential customers a heads up to tell them they may need to shell out an additional 50 to 70 bucks in order to use the system.

Last night I tried the jumper idea and the rear camera made a solid connection

The issue I have now is that I can not get the side cameras to pair up so another email was fired off to Furrion.

 

[rcarl99]

I have a similar issue, my truck is a 2024 GMC Canyon. I would get an intermittent connection on my display. If your truck is only a few years old, it my be the newer electrical signal coming trough the 7 pin connector.

I was told by Furrion to use a piece of wire to jumper pins 3 and 4 on the TRAILER's 7 pin connector. That uses the trailer's battery to power the trailer's running lights and therefore, camera. Then go check your monitor. If you have a solid picture, your truck is the issue. Of course, there is a pigtail adapter made by Furrion that corrects this, too bad they don't give potential customers a heads up to tell them they may need to shell out an additional 50 to 70 bucks in order to use the system.

Last night I tried the jumper idea and the rear camera made a solid connection

The issue I have now is that I can not get the side cameras to pair up so another email was fired off to Furrion.

Any chance you can attach a picture of this jumper configuration? I'm having difficulty picturing it in my head, if the 7-pin connector is plugged into my truck (a '23 Silverado). Does this bypass, then, my having to turn on the running lights on my truck (and therefore my trailer) to power the camera? What if I did that anyway (turn on my running lights)?... would that cause any issues?

 

[RhumbleFish]

Gang, assuming your headlights are in the ON position, this is **classic** PWM issue. (Apologies, I tend to write a lot about this problem)

Your GMC Sierra has LED running lights.

GM (and other manufacturers) uses Pulse Wave Modulation (PWM) to control light output to the LEDs, producing 12v power in a "chopped" waveform. This power provided by the seven pin connection to the trailer running lights (and the backup camera, which is wired to the trailer's lights) IS NOT SUITABLE to power the 12v Backup camera (personally, I can tell you neither the Furrion Vision S, nor the Haloview MC7019 will function).

There are a few solutions to the problem: The fix has been either a series of inline resistors mimicking incandescent operation or capacitors powering the camera from a 12v system OTHER than the tow vehicle (like the onboard battery). I bought an inline connector (installs between the TV and TT at the seven-pin connector) and works a treat (this is likely the easiest solution to implement).

Here's one on Amazon:

Amazon.com

It's a little bulky, but members here have purchased and it DOES fix this issue.

There are others out there.

Prior to the above unit, I purchased an inline adapter, about 8" long that simply fits btw trailer and tow vehicle at the seven pin connector. This was replaced on amazon by the one in the link above (note: Furion has one as well. on Amazon, this same Furion product is more expensive than the eTrailer price and shows as regularly returned. Your Mileage May Vary, but many people report success)

I found THIS one that is for a related issue, and believe that it MAY fix the issue (note: I HAVE NOT CONFIRMED THIS): https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wiring/Tow-Ready/20142.html

Do some shopping, I'll look to see if I can find the adapter I have - it's got the best form factor I've seen to date.

Hope this helps.

 

[RhumbleFish]

Any chance you can attach a picture of this jumper configuration? I'm having difficulty picturing it in my head, if the 7-pin connector is plugged into my truck (a '23 Silverado). Does this bypass, then, my having to turn on the running lights on my truck (and therefore my trailer) to power the camera? What if I did that anyway (turn on my running lights)?... would that cause any issues?

The bypass mentioned (and photo provided) is ONLY diagnostic in nature. The proceedure has you using a wire to jump pins 3 and 4 when looking at your TRAILER's seven pin connector. It effectively uses the trailer's 12v battery (not your tow vehicle) to power your running lights AND your trailer's installed camera, and it's ONLY TO TEST TO SEE if that power enables your cameras to power up and connect to the head unit... it's not a fix to actually tow your trailer with. You can also use a 15a automotive/blade type fuse to stick in there between those pins (note the postion of the "tab")

If you jump those pins and your camera successfully connects to the dash unit, you'll know that it's the PWM issue and can take steps to address it.

DO NOT jump those pins, AND connect your seven pin to your tow vehicle. Def not for that.

GENERALLY SPEAKING, the two biggest issues with cameras not connecting are (1) headlights not being turned on on the Tow Vehicle, and (2) PWM. After that, (3) distance from camera to dash unit (for wireless cameras), then (4) bad connections. If your TV has LED lights, chances are it's #2.

Just my .02. Hope this helps, I can be - and often am - wrong.

 

[JetMonkey]

Any chance you can attach a picture of this jumper configuration? I'm having difficulty picturing it in my head, if the 7-pin connector is plugged into my truck (a '23 Silverado). Does this bypass, then, my having to turn on the running lights on my truck (and therefore my trailer) to power the camera? What if I did that anyway (turn on my running lights)?... would that cause any issues?

As luck would have it, my wife and I are on our first trip so I just took these pics. The adapter works fine, I now have consistent power the rear camera and both side cameras as long as I have my truck's running lights on.