Fuse Continues to Blow

SON OF THE SAVIOR

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West Bend
We have a 2018 Geo Pro 19 FBS. Currently the 15 amp DC fuse labeled F3 inside the power converter will blow after a short time. A label for this fuse states it is for Appliances. What appliances are associated with this fuse?
 
Sorry, I did see another post that will give me an idea where to start.

I lose the fridge, water pump, CO2 monitor, furnace and the upper portion of my panel that turns on the water heaters and gives various tank levels. The lower portion of the panel continues to work for the lights, awning and slide.
 
What stops working after fuse is gone?
You may have to play detective

Did any one add to or modify the wiring since new?
 
We have a 2018 Geo Pro 19 FBS. Currently the 15 amp DC fuse labeled F3 inside the power converter will blow after a short time. A label for this fuse states it is for Appliances. What appliances are associated with this fuse?
Moved thread from the Forum Administration/News/Member Accounts section to the Electrical and Charging Systems sub-forum since the OP's questions are specific to that particular sub-forum and have nothing to do with the Forum Administration/News/Member Accounts section.
 
What stops working after fuse is gone?
You may have to play detective

Did any one add to or modify the wiring since new?
I have updated the power coverter as a lithium battery replaced the lead acid that came with the RV.
It has been work ok for two years with no issues. I did see a list of accessories that others on this forum have noted when they noted a similar fuse issue.

I will find the issue.
 
One of the items that is getting power from the fuse is trying to take a little too much. To start, make a list of what is not working. Turn all of the things off and try a fuse, turn things on one by one to find the culprit. Your F3 is running the convenience center indicators at the top, the lower portion is switches that are fed from some other fuses. As noted, you are now a detective.
 
One of the items that is getting power from the fuse is trying to take a little too much. To start, make a list of what is not working. Turn all of the things off and try a fuse, turn things on one by one to find the culprit. Your F3 is running the convenience center indicators at the top, the lower portion is switches that are fed from some other fuses. As noted, you are now a detective.
Joe,

Here's a trick that no one ever remembers. The OP could take his multimeter, set it at the 10A (amp) setting, and plug the black probe into the Ground (black) jack and the red probe into the 10 A jack (not the V-Ω-A jack).

Then he can:
  1. Turn OFF all the identified appliances known to be on this circuit.
  2. Remove the F3 fuse.
  3. The fuse connectors will look like this:
    1745599764386.png
  4. The OP should insert one probe into one of the curled parts on one fuse terminal, and the other probe into a curled part on the other fuse terminal.
  5. Turn the multimeter on.
  6. Now, one at a time, turn each of the relevant appliances on, read the current, and turn it off.
  7. Repeat for all appliances.
  8. The OP will find either one appliance that exceeds 10 amps (meter will read OL or blinking "1") or there will be two that sum to more than 15 amps.
  9. The OP should post the list of appliances and their current draws and we can tell which are abnormal readings.
 
Many multi meters will blow internal fuse if you zap it with over 10 amps

Pay the extra and buy a hobbyist DC clamp meter starts around 60$
 
Many multi meters will blow internal fuse if you zap it with over 10 amps

Pay the extra and buy a hobbyist DC clamp meter starts around 60$
X2
A meter like this (that reads DC amps) should be in EVERY R/V owners tool box. (and know how to use it)
And at $30 (less 10%) there's no reason not to.

Digital Clamp Meter, 6000 Counts TRMS Multimeter, Amp Meter Clamp ac/dc for Current, Voltage, Resistance, Capacitance, Frequency, Duty Cycle, Temperature Continuity, Diode, NCV, Live Wire Test
71Y-w8cd4cL._SL1500_.jpg
 
The one shown is only 60amp current
If you got inverter or largish solar find one with more current cabability
 
Many multi meters will blow internal fuse if you zap it with over 10 amps

Pay the extra and buy a hobbyist DC clamp meter starts around 60$
Some do, some don't. The ones Harbor Freight used to give away (on sale sometimes now, for $5) the only thing that happens is the internal shunt gets hot. For a few seconds on/off cycle, no damage occurs.
 
Volts

I saw 60 for current
Only be worried if you regulary use inverter at max power
 
You can also look for a professional upgraded one in pawn stores or facebook
Used ones are fine with me
 
This thread started out dealing with an overcurrent blowing a 15 amp fuse. Wondering why it drifted into an equipment debate, followed by a "mine is bigger than yours" discussion.
 
Cause if you got a 3000w inverter a 60 amp clamp meter won’t work if you want to check current when the air kicks on
 
I have located my F3 fuse problem.There are two wires that come from the back of the power converter associated with F3
(blue wire) circuit. I traced my problem down to the wire short which feeds under the floor to the gas heater which is located under the bed in the 2018 19FBS.
 

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