Galley Tank Fell Off. Cannot find solution, desperate after 3 months.

stupidgoblin

New Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2025
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1
Location
arizona
Hello everyone. Im new and thank you for taking the time to read this. We are young full timers and have exhausted most options we can think of. Really looking for someone experienced in repairs to give some advice. 2012 primetime crusader rlt 290.

Basically, one night, we heard a loud crash outside. I went to check and our galley tank had fallen OFF. the black tank was suspended by metal bars underneath, and we had assumed the galley was the same, but looking at the tank after it had happened, we saw NO POINT OF ATTACHMENT other than GLUE SPOTS. we were shocked by this. our model was used, but was near perfect condition and had had no issues for 2 years. of course the dealership didnt help us at all. it appears to have cracked right where this pipe attaches.
20240710_134433.jpg

Now, we've done minor pvc repairs before, and honestly that seems to be the best way to go here. i dont think reattaching the tank is an option... or at least i have no clue how. i am still, months later, astonished it was attached and stayed on as long as it did. im thinking it must have been diy-replaced beforehand somehow. or just really terrible manufacturing in that area. but anyways, this pipe is such a strange size. it appears to be 1.3 inches internally across? I have tried multiple sizes of pvc available at the hardware store to try to reglue it and route it to a non-attached tank or directly to our sewer outlet, (we own our property and yes we live legally) but i cannot for the life of me find a configuration of pvc pipes that will work here. the remainder of this pipe barely sticks out and im scared to cut it because i dont want to ruin it further or have to go deeper into the rv's underbelly.

i guess my primary question here is, does anyone know what type of pipe this is and how i can get one that would fit internally? if it isnt pvc, what glue do i use? would there be a pvc adapter i could get for a pipe with a strange size like this? any links? has anyone experienced anything like this, where their galley tank just falls off? how did you deal with it if so? we are currently just not using the kitchen sink and it's been wearing at our mental health at this point, despite having a dishwasher. any advice greatly appreciated. thank you for reading. if anyone is willing to take the time to troubleshoot with me, i can gladly get more pictures or info. Thanks guys.
 
PVC pipe is measured by the outside dimensions, not the internal/inside dimension.

It is hard to tell how much pipe you have available to attach to. There are rubber transition boots such as these available at HD that use a hose clamp to secure to the pipe. This might allow for a solution.
 
I think your idea of connecting to the sewer directly is a good idea since you are on a permanent site (eliminate grey tank).

My suggestion is to cut the material (floor?, coraplast?) around the drain so you can better see what your dealing with. If you do that it will allow you to use a rubber transition boot as suggested by Jim ^^.

Once you attach the transition boot you can plumb the pipe as you see fit. Good luck..
 
Basically, one night, we heard a loud crash outside. I went to check and our galley tank had fallen OFF. the black tank was suspended by metal bars underneath, and we had assumed the galley was the same, but looking at the tank after it had happened, we saw NO POINT OF ATTACHMENT other than GLUE SPOTS. we were shocked by this. our model was used, but was near perfect condition and had had no issues for 2 years. of course the dealership didnt help us at all. it appears to have cracked right where this pipe attaches.
View attachment 667748
I am certain that the tank was not held in place by the pipe that fills it. ABS pipe (not PVC) is far too delicate for that. Even a tank as small as 20-gallons would hold 166 lbs. of water and the plumbing could not support that (as your photo shows).

The tank probably was supported by two side-to-side supports, under the flanges that run around the waist of the tank. The HDPE (also not PVC) tank is somewhat flexible and eventually the weight of the water caused the bottom to belly out, pulling the flanges inward until the tank slipped out. There's a complaint about this every so often in these forums. The owner usually repairs the fitting and replaces the tank and adds two front-to back straps under the tank and bolted to the existing side-to-side supports.

Here is the sequence to follow:
  1. Remove the old threaded adapter from the drain pipe by splitting. Take a hacksaw blade (just the blade) and cut the adapter hub, slicing parallel to the pipe. Cut the hub; stop before cutting the pipe. Insert a large screwdriver into the cut and twist--this will split the hub right off the pipe.
  2. Get this adapter and some ABS pipe cement.
  3. Screw the adapter into the tank.
  4. Without adding pipe cement, dry-fit the tank and make sure you can put it into place, across the supports, with the pipe entering the new adapter.
  5. When you can do this, put ABS cement (not dual purpose cement) on the pipe and inside the hub and quickly put it into place and hold it tightly for a minute.
  6. Once it's dry, and BEFORE putting any water into it, fabricate two straps to go under the tank. Drill bolt holes in the straps and supports, and bolt the straps in place.
 
I replumbed my rv to run everything directly to my septic. The RV isn't going anywhere. The pipes inside are ABS running down into the tanks, which I removed for the straight piping. I joined pvc pipes to the existing ABS pipes using Fernco flexible rubber connectors. These meet code. I don't recall pipe diameters, but the PVC I found at Lowes married up to my ABS. You don't glue. The Fernco connectors use adjustable steel clamps. The pic is the Fernco. They come in multiple sizes. Used to join ABS to PVC.
 

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Our ABS dump valve was held onto to our $190K motorhome only by the rubber coupling attached to the black tank, nothing else! Several years ago, I tried to dump at a very well-designed (fortunately), sloping concrete pad, dump station. When I pulled the handle, the entire valve came off, covering me and the dump pad with the black tank contents. I was lucky that I had just been kayaking and only had on a swimsuit, T-shirt, and water sandals. I hooked up a hose to the non-potable water and washed me and the pad down for a 1/2 hour. I temporarily tied the dump valve back up with a rope off my kayak, just to get it home. Then I used a 3" hose clamp, a roll of perforated metal pipe strap, and some bolts and nuts with lock washers to make a permanent hanger for the valve. What is amazing to me is that the new 2025 models still have exactly the same incredibly poor design for supporting that dump valve!

Long story, not so short: who knows how the OEM may have supported (or not supported!) that gray tank?
 
I replumbed my rv to run everything directly to my septic. The RV isn't going anywhere. The pipes inside are ABS running down into the tanks, which I removed for the straight piping. I joined pvc pipes to the existing ABS pipes using Fernco flexible rubber connectors. These meet code. I don't recall pipe diameters, but the PVC I found at Lowes married up to my ABS. You don't glue. The Fernco connectors use adjustable steel clamps. The pic is the Fernco. They come in multiple sizes. Used to join ABS to PVC.
Given that RV toilets flush just a trickle compared to residential toilets and mostly rely on a gravity drop intp the tank, how's that working for you?
 
Given that RV toilets flush just a trickle compared to residential toilets and mostly rely on a gravity drop intp the tank, how's that working for you?
You've apparently made an assumption. I'm aware of that. It's why I installed a residential toilet. It's working just fine.
 
Just like a park model!
I would say so. Like you, I'm in NC. Renovating a house on some land I purchased last year. Jumping through hoops, I had to hard plumb the RV to live in it while doing the work. Since the RV was actually purchased used for that purpose, I just pulled the tanks and replumbed. I had shore power installed as part of the initial power work to begin work on the house. Of course, I had to trench and lay in the line to the septic tank. I'm doing the work myself, which saves me literally thousands. I also ran a water line, bypassing the rv tank.
 
I completely get that. Inflation was nasty in the 1970s. When I got out of the Army in 1973, the only house we could afford was a two-bedroom on a street with one-story three-bedrooms (same overall dimensions) on one side and two-story four-bedrooms on the other. We could afford it because the house was sitting empty--the owner had moved to another state and was desperate--and we could assume a 5.25% VA mortgage.

Flash forward to 1976, when Carter was president and had our second child. We couldn't afford to move. As a realtor friend told us. "If you sold your house to the bank and bought it back, it would take all you could afford.

We wound up building a second-story atop our raised-ranch house while living in it. I tore off the roof on Sunday. A 3-man crew came Monday for a week and framed and sheathed the second story, and set the windows. My wife and I did the rest: siding, wiring, plumbing, hot water, insulation, drywall, ceramic tile bath, custom cabinetry, trim, wallpaper, paint, and carpet, working every night after my day job and weekends.
 
I completely get that. Inflation was nasty in the 1970s. When I got out of the Army in 1973, the only house we could afford was a two-bedroom on a street with one-story three-bedrooms (same overall dimensions) on one side and two-story four-bedrooms on the other. We could afford it because the house was sitting empty--the owner had moved to another state and was desperate--and we could assume a 5.25% VA mortgage.

Flash forward to 1976, when Carter was president and had our second child. We couldn't afford to move. As a realtor friend told us. "If you sold your house to the bank and bought it back, it would take all you could afford.

We wound up building a second-story atop our raised-ranch house while living in it. I tore off the roof on Sunday. A 3-man crew came Monday for a week and framed and sheathed the second story, and set the windows. My wife and I did the rest: siding, wiring, plumbing, hot water, insulation, drywall, ceramic tile bath, custom cabinetry, trim, wallpaper, paint, and carpet, working every night after my day job and weekends.
The two of you accomplished so much! I went into the Army 2 years before you got out.
 

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