Hardwired vs Portable Surge Protection

If you’re going to mount one of the hardwired units in a tight space, be sure to check the allowable orientations. The Southwire unit I had could be not be installed on its back with the label up—any other orientation was fine. I had to install mine on the wall behind the power distribution unit.
 
I didn't think of that! But then the surge protector is buried inside the wall right? Don't think I like that, despite having the remote display.
Well, it is out of sight, like a number of other controllers in the trailer, not to talk about where all the various computers and controllers are in our various tow vehicles. But taking a look back there will let you see the probable rats nest of wiring that the was created when the trailer was built (which may cause you to do more work...). And it will give you the opportunity to clean out all the sawdust and other debris left there. Heck you might find an abandoned tool.
 
One of the two biggest issues with a portable unit is that they usually lack protection from water ingress where the shore power cable plugs in. You know, rain, and in some places with low pedestals, puddles.

And, more importantly, that people sometimes do not use them 100% of the time due to some rationalization. I have read many times that "We've stayed it this campground before and never had a problem so we don't need it." Umm, OK.

A buddy recently had an electrician wire up a home 50 amp pedestal. The licensed professional swapped the neutral and one of the hot leads. He, of course, did not drag out his portable unit and plug it into the new outlet. He's still working through getting the damaged equipment replaced.

After they heard the SNAP from somewhere inside and the pedestal breaker tripped he decided to plug in his portable unit. It warned him to not plug in.

That problem and decision point can never occur with a hard-wired unit because it is "plugged in" 100% of the time without the owner needing to do anything.

It's never a problem until it is.

Ray
 
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There are electricians and then there are wire twisters. Big difference, although they usually go by the same title.

Some folks know what they are doing and some folks think they know what they are doing. Avoid the latter.

Bob
 
The MOV, metal oxide varistor degrades every time it absorbs a surge. Commonly, the MOV in a surge suppressor is designed to activate at a voltage 10-15% above the expected standard voltage - which for this case will be about 140 volts.
The standard actually is a minimum of 125% but can be higher, depending on the application.

Small surges just over 140 are fairly common, being caused commonly by motor startup and shut down, ie. air conditioners for example.. One report I've seen said that an average home will be subjected to 8-20 surges per day.
MOVs have a highly nonlinear voltage-current response curve. A slight voltage over their threshold does not conduct much power away. A large spike in voltage results in a much larger current diversion.

A true "surge" is a momentary voltage spike lasting milliseconds, not seconds. Those longer ones are over-voltage conditions that a MOV will barely touch due to their nonlinear response curve.

Each surge degrades the suppressor until its remaining capability reaches a level determined by the manufacturer and is then reports itself as failed.
Yes. When an MOV actually conducts a spike to ground the MOV develops a tiny, permanent leakage current. The leakage current depends on the size of the surge. A bunch of small ones can affect an MOV to the same extent as one large one.

As surges are conducted away the leakage current keeps increasing. Once the permanent leakage reaches the manufacturer-defined level the MOV module is considered "used up" and it triggers a light or something. It actually still works but not as effectively and can be subject to overheating and occasionally bursting into flames. (That's what the most recent standards changes address; the protective device causing the problem.)

There is a tremendous amount of surge protection built into the grid and MOVs are so cheap that a lot of electronic equipment have them built in to reduce warranty exposure but the owner just doesn't know it. Kind of makes you understand why RV companies charge hundreds for a box that contains maybe $10 retail worth of MOVs.

Think about it. There are tens of millions of homes in the US without a whole house surge protector yet their equipment is not failing regularly. It's almost a non-problem in the real world unless there is a nearby lightning strike and no consumer surge protector is going to survive that wallop anyway.

People love to talk about how they always use a surge protector strip and they've never had a failure so that must be the reason. Me, I repaired electronics down to the component level for decades and I never use one and I don't have failures either. They're trying to prove a negative to justify their expenditure.

Yes, I know a recent NEC revision is supposed to mandate whole house surge protectors but there is no retrofit requirement and those tens of millions of homes are still doing just fine. There is a whole lot of industry "input" to NEC revisions that does not necessarily improve safety in a material way and occasionally to hurt the competition.

Ray
 
There are electricians and then there are wire twisters. Big difference, although they usually go by the same title.

Some folks know what they are doing and some folks think they know what they are doing. Avoid the latter.

Bob
Can't always tell the difference when hiring someone if they are both licensed.

Ray
 
How much room is there behind where the WFCO is installed? On my trailer, the power center is under the fridge and there was a huge open space behind it. Plenty of room for the EMS. I disconnected the main power feed from the power center, used it as input to my EMS and got a short piece of appropriate wire to tie back the power center. I have the remote display and routed that to a wall just inside my main door.
That's exactly how I've set up the last ones I've put in our trailer.
 
If you’re going to mount one of the hardwired units in a tight space, be sure to check the allowable orientations. The Southwire unit I had could be not be installed on its back with the label up—any other orientation was fine. I had to install mine on the wall behind the power distribution unit.

Kinda strange a solid state device has a orientation that has to be followed for mounting?


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Kinda strange a solid state device has a orientation that has to be followed for mounting?


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Agreed. But their instructions state: “The manufacturer recommends mounting the unit in a way other than flat where the label is facing the sky. Vertically or horizontally upside down (Label facing the earth) is advised.”
 
I have the portable Progressive EMS. I was at a campground last year that had some older wiring that they were replacing. My Progressive kept tripping because of voltage fluctuations on one leg. My son was in the site next to me. He has a portable Progressive surge protector. His pedestal was on a different run than my pedestal. I let him use my EMS and I used his surge protector which wasn't as picky as the EMS and did not trip. That would not have been possible if either of us were hardwired.
 
Kinda strange a solid state device has a orientation that has to be followed for mounting?
There probably is a mechanical contactor inside. I doubt anyone would build one using solid state devices to positively kill the AC power in an RV. The risk of current leakage is too great for a safety device plus the cost would be a lot higher for one tested to handle 50 amps continuously. A solid state device also would have a tiny amount of voltage drop and that will create needless heat inside the enclosure.

If the mechanical "thing" holding the contactor disengaged fails, whether it's a spring or whatever, then the contactor could engage and turn the power on when it's not supposed to be on. I'd think that's why the orientation matters, gravity and a failure.

Ray
 
I have the portable Progressive EMS. I was at a campground last year that had some older wiring that they were replacing. My Progressive kept tripping because of voltage fluctuations on one leg. My son was in the site next to me. He has a portable Progressive surge protector. His pedestal was on a different run than my pedestal. I let him use my EMS and I used his surge protector which wasn't as picky as the EMS and did not trip. That would not have been possible if either of us were hardwired.
If all he had was a Progressive Surge Protector it can be a waste of money because it protects the RV systems against nothing expensive since a "surge protector" has no way to trip the power. Yet people buy them because "surge protector" is used as a universal term when it really is not.

There is a reason why a "surge protector" is so cheap as compared to a EMS-type of device. It's a "Pay me now or pay me more later" situation. But some people are OK with that, especially if they have a 30-amp RV.

A hard-wired EMS usually has a way to bypass the EMS section while still leaving the passive surge protection MOV devices working. We have a hard-wired Progressive and we have a slide switch on the remote display. Other models require moving a jumper wire inside. Both methods simply engage the contactor without regard to any incoming power defects.

Ray
 

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