Heated Hose

GreyGhost51

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2024
Messages
22
Location
Tennessee
So I wrapped my water hose with insulation. It got down to 30 and my water froze. So I bought a heated hose, new fitting at camper and the brass water outlet. No leaks. Had a spare 30 amp outlet so bought a 4 was 30 to 110. Led light came on. Plugged heater line into it. Water is frozen again, except for commode. Never seen this. Shower is also week. Help!
 
Moved thread from the General Tech and Repair section to the Plumbing, Water Systems and Fixtures sub-forum since the OP's questions are specific to that particular sub-forum and are not general tech questions.
 
So where did the water freeze? If the hose is working correctly only the hose water is protected nothing beyond that. Anything in the trailer is NOT protected by the hose.

If you are on full hook up I leave the water trickle, with the grey valve open when it is below freezing or disconnect the hose and bring it inside at night........... I assume you have heat on inside of the trailer?

Your profile says it is a 2014 Wilderness or is it a Wildwood?? Is your trailer underbelly open or enclosed?
 
Last edited:
Using heated hoses defeats the freeze proof valve!

You must have enough heat on connections to prevent freezing.

We travel in the winter. We use the water storage tank, tank heater, pump and the furnace. Been in single digit weather. No problem. I fill the water tank weekly, carefully.
 
We use our RV in below freezing temps every winter (single digits). Two of the parks we frequent do not have freeze proof spigots, but have the spigots underground in boxes with insulation. For these parks we use our heated hose. But you MUST insulate both ends of the hose (connections). If pipes inside your RV freeze, then you must insulate them or determine if you need to leave cabinets open or open access panels to allow inside heat around the pipes. We run our heated hose along our sewer hose and it doesn't freeze either.

For parks with frost proof spigots, we usually just fill the fresh tank and use the pump.

Over the years I determined the RV lines susceptible to freeze and insulated them. Also have insulated drawstring bags I place on any drains and vents below the coroplast.
 
the spigots underground in boxes with insulation.
You mean the ones with the pull handles that look like old-time water pumps? Some folks call those "hydrants." City "fire hydrants work the same way. The valve itself is 6-10 feet underground. When the handle is lifted, the water feed is connected to the riser pipe. When the handle is down, the water feed is blocked and the riser pipe is allowed to drain into a gravel-filled sump (French drain) below.
 
You mean the ones with the pull handles that look like old-time water pumps? Some folks call those "hydrants." City "fire hydrants work the same way. The valve itself is 6-10 feet underground. When the handle is lifted, the water feed is connected to the riser pipe. When the handle is down, the water feed is blocked and the riser pipe is allowed to drain into a gravel-filled sump (French drain) below.
We have one of those at the house, did not see when they installed it but I usually see them with wells and on farms.
 
You mean the ones with the pull handles that look like old-time water pumps? Some folks call those "hydrants." City "fire hydrants work the same way. The valve itself is 6-10 feet underground. When the handle is lifted, the water feed is connected to the riser pipe. When the handle is down, the water feed is blocked and the riser pipe is allowed to drain into a gravel-filled sump (French drain) below.
Guess I should of said it was just a simple hose bib in a box just below ground surface where it could be used and also protected from freezing.

The frost free hose bib/hydrant is this Amazon.com

Some drain below ground when you turn the water off regardless of a hose being attached, some don't. Depends on how they vent. So we usually disconnect our hose and use the tank to be safe.
 

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