Help! Leaving tomorrow and have a macerator issue

For someone that doesn't know, what is the purpose and/or benefit of a macerator?
 
Smaller hose, super fast dumping, and cleaner handling overall. I have done gravity dumping for 30 years and this is our first masserator system and I definitely prefer it.
 
Same here. I'd used gravity systems for years and thought they worked fine, no need to complicate it. Now, I much prefer the macenator approach to "dumping".

To the original question, a macenator is also used when the floorplan layout doesn't allow the toilet to be directly over the black tank.
 
Agree. Once you starting using a Sani-Con macerator...hard to go back. Way cleaner (as long as the hose doesn't have holes in it, or people don't flush wash cloths, or towels)
 
Halla, how is your gate valve installed? 1 1/2" threaded or did you change or add to the 90 degree fitting?
I cut the old elbow off of the macerator box and glued on a 90’ 1 1/2 elbow, glued the gate valve onto the elbow, then a threaded coupling on the other side of the gate valve. The banjo fitting (male) threads onto the coupling (with plumbing tape).
 
Thanks Halla. I was wondering as it doesn't look like a threaded gate valve can be put on clearance wise, so what you did makes sense.

I think I am going to add a second threaded street 90 so it turns to the rear and threaded gate valve so I can leave the hose on (without the cam locks). That way it definitely clears the door when it is closed. The info and ideas are appreciated.
 
I cut the old elbow off of the macerator box and glued on a 90’ 1 1/2 elbow, glued the gate valve onto the elbow, then a threaded coupling on the other side of the gate valve. The banjo fitting (male) threads onto the coupling (with plumbing tape).
I think I can visualize that, but if you get a chance post a pic that would be great
 
Here is a more direct shot, you can see the parts a little better, I can get a picture of behind the gate valve this weekend if you wish.
IMG_5098_Original.jpeg
 
So when you have the macerator hose connected you can't close your bay door?
 
No, I did this so I can always remove the hose and cap it. Less chance of breaking the hose. It takes a few seconds to hook it up, dump, unhook it and store it.
 
No, I did this so I can always remove the hose and cap it. Less chance of breaking the hose. It takes a few seconds to hook it up, dump, unhook it and store it.
Good to know. As a rookie this is all very new to me.

I noticed when using my gravity house I had to make a pretty tight bend from the valve too the opening in the bottom of the bay.
 
While we're at it, do y'all find that water puddles in that bay? I was thinking of drilling a 1/4-1/2" hole in the lowest spot.

Thoughts?
 
I just ordered these from US Plastics to try a variation without the cam locks. I figure I may need to take apart the threaded gate valve to put it on, reassemble. The threaded 90 will connect to the existing 90, so that the gate valve hopefully goes in front of the macerator and points to the back parallel the door leaving the hose in place. We will see how it all fits when it arrives.
 

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I do not have any puddling since I am using the macerator hose which has the cap that is put on before the hose it put away. I have two small tubs in the back of the bay, one for the fresh water hose (I do not have a hose reel on the Europa) and accessories, one for the black water hose. I use non expanding fabric hoses by EvoFlex so they pack small but still flow right. I leave my fresh hose connected at all times, just coil it and put it in the tub with my pressure regulator. Any drips are in the tub where they can evaporate. We are also have a Xplorer package so bay is lined so I don't care to put a lot of things on the bay floor. I will try to take a picture of tubs, I am happy with it for organization and it keeps the blue hose stuff away from the black hose stuff.
 
Actually I had a photo on my phone. You have a hose reel so you don't need a place for your fresh water hose. I have a 25' blue fresh water hose, a second blue hose still in the box in another bin, and a 50' black water hose for flushing the tank. A pressure regulator with gauge for city water and a Y adapter for the fresh water for campsites. When we swapped the RV after 20 years we started fresh with all new stuff because we had a pretty good idea what we needed and what rode around with us unused for many years... The tubs are dish sink plastic basins. Simple and clean.
temphoses.jpg
 
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So you need a dedicated hose just to flush the black tank. I have a separate hose to wash the coach, figured I'd use that
 
You can use your washing hose for the black, you just want to keep your fresh hose and accessories separate.
 
CopB8, if you are looking for a source of good free trustworthy basic first time RV information all the way to servicing systems, try the RVGeeks, I still reference them. Peter and John have info from what TP to use all the way to generator servicing and everything in between.
 
I took a few more pictures so you can see the fittings and how it works together. So far, three Dynamax units since 2015, never had a hose leak (knock on wood).
 

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