How do I repair a rip in the flooring

[GoneSquachin]

The dealer where we bought Rockwood Signature 8288SB ripped our floor after installing an additional bench for the kitchen table.
I read somewhere that the proper way to fix is a heat gun, roller and then Mannington V81 adhesive.
Well, no one has Mannington V81, anywhere. Every flooring business I went to says theyre out and cant get it either. I cant find an acrylic based adhesive at all.
Any suggestions on what to do next would be appreciated.

 

[Jean D]

May be silly but if the dealer ripped it why didn’t they fix it. Maybe some good double sided tape to hold it as a temporary fix.

 

[GoneSquachin]

May be silly but if the dealer ripped it why didn’t they fix it. Maybe some good double sided tape to hold it as a temporary fix.

Well, we took it back numerous times totaling almost 2 months in service to repair things. They gave it back each time saying it was repaired, it wasn't, things were worse. The last time they said the floor guy was coming to fix the floor, then when we picked it up we got the bs excuse that he couldn't make it. The entire process from purchase until today with them has been torture.

they destroyed the floor of a brand new trailer and they really don't care.
I also have zero trust of it being done properly.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Has a similar issue with damaged floor material.

I put some vinyl floor adhesive in a hypodermic syringe with a large gauge needle. At the cut I injected the adhesive at an obtuse angle under the flooring material. This is done at an angle so as to not lift the floor material. Then a brick or two as weights on top of the floor until the glue cured. You might want to put some wax paper on the floor between it and the bricks so that nothing sticks. The cut is still visible but there is little to no chance of it lifting up and being damaged any further.

I obtained my syringe from our vet as they use large ones.

Bob

 

[GoneSquachin]

Has a similar issue with damaged floor material.

I put some vinyl floor adhesive in a hypodermic syringe with a large gauge needle. At the cut I injected the adhesive at an obtuse angle under the flooring material. This is done at an angle so as to not lift the floor material. Then a brick or two as weights on top of the floor until the glue cured. You might want to put some wax paper on the floor between it and the bricks so that nothing sticks. The cut is still visible but there is little to no chance of it lifting up and being damaged any further.

I obtained my syringe from our vet as they use large ones.

Bob

What adhesive did you use? I can't find acrylic based vinal adhesive anywhere.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Flooring department at Lowe's. One may have to buy more than you need but, in my case, I had some left over from another project. For all practical purposes, one could load a syringe with a glob of RTV. It sticks too.

FYI - V-81 is a premium latex adhesive developed specifically for use with Mannington commercial-grade resilient sheet products having a felt backing.

With that said, glue is glue. Pick one and go for it. Even my favorite, Tight Bond II, would work. Just don't use some of the things described as "Super Glue" of any flavor.

Bob

 

[Camp1-FRF]

How about stopping payments to dealer until it’s repaired?

 

[mmartin_tdc]

With that said, glue is glue. Pick one and go for it. Even my favorite, Tight Bond II, would work. Just don't use some of the things described as "Super Glue" of any flavor.


Very much not true with flooring. Various backing materials react differently with different based adhesives.
Discoloration, disfiguring, etc can happen.

47 years in the flooring industry, you pick up a few things.

PS a Crain #143 syringe is what the installers use to inject adhesive.

 

[GoneSquachin]

Flooring department at Lowe's. One may have to buy more than you need but, in my case, I had some left over from another project. For all practical purposes, one could load a syringe with a glob of RTV. It sticks too.

FYI - V-81 is a premium latex adhesive developed specifically for use with Mannington commercial-grade resilient sheet products having a felt backing.

With that said, glue is glue. Pick one and go for it. Even my favorite, Tight Bond II, would work. Just don't use some of the things described as "Super Glue" of any flavor.

Bob

I read that V81 is whats used in Rockwood because they are mannington floors and V81 is acrylic based, which is what's used in all vinal flooring in RV's because it has to be pliable. I really have no idea though. Also, it might not be necessary for such a small area to be pliable.
My concern with using anything(i would not use super glue type stuff) is that i did that once with our first trailer. It was glue that stated it was a vinal floor repair kit and it turned the area to a silly putty consistency, just melted it.

 

[GoneSquachin]

How about stopping payments to dealer until it’s repaired?

I dont make payments to the dealer for anything.

 

[Camp1-FRF]

I dont make payments to the dealer for anything.

Yeah, I don’t either. Sometimes it takes some leverage away in such situations. Thought it might be an option.

 

[GoneSquachin]

With that said, glue is glue. Pick one and go for it. Even my favorite, Tight Bond II, would work. Just don't use some of the things described as "Super Glue" of any flavor.


Very much not true with flooring. Various backing materials react differently with different based adhesives.
Discoloration, disfiguring, etc can happen.

47 years in the flooring industry, you pick up a few things.

PS a Crain #143 syringe is what the installers use to inject adhesive.

Exactly!

I made the mistake of using a vinal floor repair kit on our first trailer without knowing the floor type or really the type of glue I was using, it turned a larger area than the rip into a silly putty consistency, just melted it.

 

[Aussieguy]

I would try heat first
use a clothes IRON (not on steam)
put a towel between iron and vinyl

it just may reactivate what glue they have down there?
once you get it hot(ish) turn the iron OFF and let it sit keeping some weight down as the glue cools again
--------------------------------------------
IF that is a CUT all the way through
you could try to glue the cut back together using a vinyl glue and NOT worry about trying to glue it to floor

-------------------------------------------------
replace that section of floor
cut out the entire section and put in NEW flooring for the whole section
can use thresholds or other covers to hide joins at doorways etc

 

[AndreHendricken]

Here is what I did step by step
1) Clean floor very well
2) Filled gap with clear Gorilla Glue
3 Lay wax paper over floor and glue
4) Placed 2’x2’ plywood on top of wax paper
5) Place roughly 20lbs or bricks on plywood
6) Let dry for 24hrs

 

[Mike134]

Heat gun to warm it up and contact cement worked to repair my floor when I tore it.

 

[D W]

Had a slight tear in our vinyl caused by a small stone when using the slide-out. Cut a piece of the vinyl from underneath the cabinet. Cut out the tear and sized the patch piece to the width of the plank pattern minus 1/16" around the edges. Used Weldwood Contact Cement to glue the patch down following the directions on the can. Let it turn glossy [15 minutes], then put it in place. After 2 hours, used VLP Adhesive to seal the edges. The VLP will blend the vinyl edges together. After it cures, you can clean the edges lightly with some Scotchbrite.

 

[Roaminaround]

Just curious why super glue is not recommended.
I used it on a 4” long cut and it worked fine.

 

[D W]

Just curious why super glue is not recommended.
I used it on a 4” long cut and it worked fine.

Super Glue has been known to deteriorate with time and exposure to some "cleaners". After all, Super Glue aka Cyanoacrylate, was originally formulated by the U.S Army to temporarily seal wounds and incisions in lieu of sutures.