How I'm Surviving Negative Temps Without Using A Furnace

ZacharyB93

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Sep 3, 2024
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This past fall, while I was in South Louisiana, I was notified that I would be spending January in the middle of Indiana. Recognizing that the temperatures would be vastly different from what I was experiencing at the time, I began researching everything I could about living in an RV full-time during freezing and negative temperatures since I had never wintered in an RV.

I'd like to preface what I'm about to write by saying I'm NOT an expert on RVing. There is a good possibility that what I did to prepare my trailer could've been done better. But I did what I thought was best, and it has worked great so far. I've learned quickly, after living in an RV for 7 months and traveling/living in 9 different states during that time, that sometimes you just have to do what you have to do.

Also, so you will know what kind of weather I'm currently surviving in, the temperature here over the past couple of weeks has ranged from 32 degrees Fahrenheit to -11 degrees Fahrenheit, averaging around 23-25. My rig is a 2015 Sandpiper 371REBH, a 43.5-ft 5th Wheel, and it does NOT have the polar/all-seasons package. We also have had as much as 9-10 inches of snow on the ground, and wind gusts up to 40mph.

#1: Before coming to Indiana, the first thing I did was to drop my underbelly and install R19 insulation from one side to the other, all the way from the front to the back, and everywhere I could. I then drilled extra holes across the bottom of the trailer and used screws and large washers to help hold up the extra weight of the insulation. I then drilled holes through my outside frame rails and bolted four 2x4s across the bottom of my trailer to help support the underbelly. The insulation was a little over $100, and the drill bits, screws, washers, bolts, and 2x4s brought it up to closer to $200 I believe.

#2 I measured my trailer and all of my slides and ordered new 20oz vinyl from billboardtarps.com. Shipping was expensive (about $100), so it cost me about $400 total for the vinyl plus shipping. Now, it should be noted that my 5th wheel is over 42 feet long and has four slides, so it's possible someone else could get their vinyl cheaper since they may not need as much. However, doing it myself was MASSIVELY cheaper than using a company like EZsnap, which wanted $1700+ to make a kit for my trailer. I also spent about $120 on a snap kit, a snap tool, and some HVAC tape from Amazon. So, all in all, it was a little over $500 to do it myself. I screwed the snap studs into my trailer at various intervals and then used the snap kit tool to punch my holes, attach my snaps, and snap them into place. I did this with my wife, and I am NOT very good at stuff like this, so I was intimidated at first, but it actually was pretty easy. We have had 40mph winds at times here in Indiana, and I have a massive flat field on 3 sides of my trailer, with barely any trees, and the vinyl has not come unsnapped. I used the HVAC tape to tape up the seams, and to tape the pieces that go on the sides of my slideouts, (can't drill anything there for obvious reasons), and the tape has withstood the wind.


#3 I cut four pieces of insulation to match the size of my basement double doors. (One piece per door.) I took each piece and tied it up inside of a large black trash bag, and stood them up in the grooves directly behind my doors. This helps keep my basement insulated, and my wet bay. I also bought the 6ft pipe insulation sleeves and put them on as many of my PEX water lines as I could.

#4 I bought a Camco heated water hose, which promptly broke after 2 weeks of use, so I'm returning it. It was the worst $180 I've ever spent, and Camco customer service is non-existent, or at least that's been my experience. So I went to Menards and purchased a 25-foot water hose, a 30-foot length of heat tape, some extra strength black electrical tape that was rated for higher temps, some duct tape, and 5 pieces of foam pipe insulation. (Not the stuff that comes in a roll, but the stuff that comes in a 6ft length with a slit in it) All together it was about $100.


#5 I bought a 200w heater for my wet bay and a Bluetooth thermometer. The heater has a tip-over safety, and the thermometer comes with an app for my phone that allows me to monitor the temperature, heat index, and humidity down there. Altogether, they were less than $40.


#6 I already have an electric fireplace in my fifth wheel, but I purchased an additional four space heaters. Now, I only have 50 amps to work with, obviously, but because of my location, I can use a little extra. I'll explain how. First, I can run my fireplace and two of my space heaters together without hurting myself electrically. But there is an extra unused electric pedestal next to mine, and I purchased a 30-amp male to 20-amp female adapter, which allows me another two space heaters (they pull about 12-amps maxed out). One of them is behind my skirting under my trailer, pointed at my black and gray tanks, and the other one is inside my trailer, with a heavy-duty extension cord running through the corner of my slide-out, where it meets my main floor.


#7 I bought three reflective vent pillows for my vents and also a magnetic insulated door cover for my front door, which is where a lot of heat can escape.


One of the more popular things that most people do that we DIDN'T do is putting reflective insulation across the windows. My wife absolutely refused to cover the windows with the foil-looking stuff, and if momma ain't happy, well, you know the rest :)
Honestly, I'm glad we didn't because winter is depressing enough without having no sunlight coming in.


That said, my furnace has not run at all since the first day I arrived. When we first got here and set up, it was 36 degrees inside the trailer after a 5-hour drive from Missouri, so we turned on the fireplace, two of the space heaters, and the furnace. Once we got it up to 72, we shut the furnace off. The coldest it has gotten inside the 5th wheel during this time is 66 degrees Fahrenheit, and it typically stays at 70-72. Again, we have not used our propane furnace ONE TIME. Our wet bay has not dropped below 38.3 degrees Fahrenheit. So the only propane we use is for our hot water heater, which makes my two 40lb propane containers last a really long time. Also, because my heat tape is about 5 feet longer than my hose, I can wrap it around the water spigot where I am staying, and my water stays unfrozen while protecting the spigot from busting.

Now, obviously, my setup may not work for everyone, and there are things that you would have to do differently based on the design of your camper, whether or not you have 30 or 50 amps to deal with, whether or not you are paying for your electric usage (which I am not), etcetera. And I'm sure there are many of you who would've done something differently and may not like some of the choices I've made. If you wish to comment those concerns, feel free to do so, I don't mind constructive criticism as long as it's civil. But I wanted to share this to maybe give some ideas about what is possible, and even though I haven't been in the extreme north or cold, I have been down to double digits below 0, and myself, my wife, and my two small children have stayed snug as bugs in rugs.

Hope this can help in some way.

P.S. pics of camper with skirting was before we got to Indiana, before the snow hit.

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Was you billed separately for electricity consumed or was it bundled into the campsite rate? I recently spent a month in a high rate area (for electricity) and it seemed propane was a more affordable option. Just curious.
 
That would be impressive for anyone, but especially someone who says they are not all that good at this kind of thing. I’m thinking you are a pretty smart guy who does a lot of homework.
 
One of the more popular things that most people do that we DIDN'T do is putting reflective insulation across the windows. My wife absolutely refused to cover the windows with the foil-looking stuff, and if momma ain't happy, well, you know the rest :)
Honestly, I'm glad we didn't because winter is depressing enough without having no sunlight coming in.

You could always put one of those foldable, car-windshield heat reflectors in your windows. We have a 5th wheel that gets direct sunlight on the back of it for half the day and we keep them up in the windows in the summertime to keep the heat out.

Then you can just take them out whenever you want.

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Another member just mention he uses the clear winter heat shrink type wrap on the windows. No view obstruction.

Be ready for a power outage though. That hose will freeze and burst in a short time. I am not a fan of leaving hoses on anyway just for that reason. Metal faucet will freeze up quickly too. Have lost power at sites at least once each winter so far. For that reason I keep my propane heat set a lower level than the fireplace whenever I leave, actually most of the time while there also if temps are low enough.
 
Now, I only have 50 amps to work with
typical 50amp connection is 2x legs of 50amps EACH

you should have 100amps available inside..... if you are connected to a standard 50amp campground connection in Indiana.


check your slides.... make sure you use some sort of pices of pool noodle type foam or something on any of the slide seal gaps...
 
What a great, detailed write on winterizing your RV and the results of your time, money, and effort.

Well done and thanks for sharing so others may utilize some or all of your ideas.
 
That split-foam pipe insulation never stays stuck very long, especially when exposed to sunlight. One solution is to put cable ties around it every 6-12 inches. Easiest if you do that at the time of installation,
 
I got a lesson on amperage too. I have a 30 amp but there was a 50 amp here too so used it. I have a Lasko in my bedroom which works well, but the kitchen area was a problem. Tried a Pelonis tower but it kept tripping the breaker. So read up and found that infrared is the best way to go. Got a 1500 watt off Amazon for $70. It is in credible how much heat it puts out. Right now in TN it's 16 and I have them both set on 64 for sleeping. I can hit the propane for 20 minutes to get up to 70.
 
Never use 50 amps on a 30 amp trailer. You are inviting disaster.
Don't try to use 100 amps on a 50 amp trailer because you "have two hot leads of 50 amps apiece."
The wiring is not designed for it. You will overheat, trip breakers and blow fuses.

Most portable heaters have a maximum of 1500 watts or a little less than 15 amps. That is all a normal 110 v circuit can handle safely.
 
Never use 50 amps on a 30 amp trailer. You are inviting disaster.
Don't try to use 100 amps on a 50 amp trailer because you "have two hot leads of 50 amps apiece."
The wiring is not designed for it. You will overheat, trip breakers and blow fuses.

Most portable heaters have a maximum of 1500 watts or a little less than 15 amps. That is all a normal 110 v circuit can handle safely.
An electrician that owns a RV told me it was OK. Going on 3 weeks now and not one breaker has tripped. But I did find out the Chinese heated hose has messed up the 30 amp supply.
 
Never use 50 amps on a 30 amp trailer. You are inviting disaster.
Don't try to use 100 amps on a 50 amp trailer because you "have two hot leads of 50 amps apiece."
The wiring is not designed for it. You will overheat, trip breakers and blow fuses.

Most portable heaters have a maximum of 1500 watts or a little less than 15 amps. That is all a normal 110 v circuit can handle safely.
This isn't true. The trailer is going to only draw as much power as it needs, and the internal breaker on the RV will trip if it goes over the rated amperage for the RV. I've had to use 50a (adapted to 110v - a single pole of the 50a outlet) many times in my travels, it's not uncommon - at least for me - to go to a park that has weak 30a breakers. Breakers do have a life span, they don't last forever.

FYI, a 220v 50a outlet is indeed two 50a feeds coming in out of phase. They don't add up to more amperage, but can provide more wattage. I'm sure an electrician will step in and go into the weeds on this.
 
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This isn't true. The trailer is going to only draw as much power as it needs, and the internal breaker on the RV will trip if it goes over the rated amperage for the RV. I've had to use 50a (adapted to 110v - a single pole of the 50a outlet) many times in my travels, it's not uncommon - at least for me - to go to a park that has weak 30a breakers.
I have my 30 amp camper plugged into the 50 amp outlet and my separate pass thru heater/air fryer circuit(protected by 15 amp fuse) plugged into the 30 amp outlet right now. Use the 50 a lot for the weak breaker reason myself.

Usually just use the 20 amp outlet but the one on this pedestal has burnt terminals. Plan on letting them know when I leave. Last time I reported a bad receptacle they shut my power off the next day to repair. Did not matter since I was there at the time but don't want that happening during this cold spell.

Nice to have options with the adapter cords. :)
 
I have my 30 amp camper plugged into the 50 amp outlet and my separate pass thru heater/air fryer circuit(protected by 15 amp fuse) plugged into the 30 amp outlet right now. Use the 50 a lot for the weak breaker reason myself.
Now that you mention it, my TT stays on a 50a almost 100% of the time. When I'm not traveling I plug it into my 50a in my storage area, I put a 50a in because we had a 50a Class A, and it also gives me the ability to run whatever may come.
 
Never use 50 amps on a 30 amp trailer. You are inviting disaster.
Don't try to use 100 amps on a 50 amp trailer because you "have two hot leads of 50 amps apiece."
The wiring is not designed for it. You will overheat, trip breakers and blow fuses.

Most portable heaters have a maximum of 1500 watts or a little less than 15 amps. That is all a normal 110 v circuit can handle safely.
Umm, wouldn't the 30 amp main breaker inside a 30 amp RV trip if more than 30 amps were drawn? If not, please explain how the 30 amps through that main breaker would not trip it.
 
typical 50amp connection is 2x legs of 50amps EACH

you should have 100amps available inside..... if you are connected to a standard 50amp campground connection in Indiana.


check your slides.... make sure you use some sort of pices of pool noodle type foam or something on any of the slide seal gaps...
Nope, you only have 50 amps per leg and these WILL NOT add to 100 amps as they are 180 degrees phase difference. If one tries to add the (+50) amps+(-50) amps one ends up with 0 amps, and lots of fireworks. But if one measures the voltage between L1 and L2 it will be 240 volts. Thus 240 volts x 50 amps is 12KW or if one measures each leg at 120 volts x 50 amps that is 6KW x 2 legs one has 12KW.

Bob
 
Exactly.

Look at it this way, you can plug a phone into a 15a charger and it doesn't explode.
Or if you want to look at it on the wattage side, you can put a 4 watt LED bulb into a socket capable of providing 1500w and it doesn't explode.

The devices, whether a trailer, a phone or whatever, only pull from the circuit what they need.

Just don't plug your 110v 30a trailer into a 220v 30a outlet for a welder, now we are talking problems! And yes, there are some Chinese sellers marketing these adapters on Amazon and eBay.
 
on a 50 amp setup with 2 power legs (wires)
you can run upto 50 amps on one side of the power panel ... it's protected by a 50 amp breaker

the OTHER 50amp breaker fed by the second leg
can supply another 50amps to the OTHER circuits (on the other side of the panel

so you can use up to 100.amps of TOTAL
no one said to join anything together so you can run a 100 amp load

leg 1 of ... 120v @ 50amps = 6000w
leg 2 of ... 120v @ 50amps = 6000w

you have 1200w or 100amps total supply capability...
use it divided up ............ within the panel/breakers installed circuits?

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using a 50 amp to 30 ADAPTER ... very common in campgrounds where there is only a 50amp outlet in the pedestal
The pedestal does NOT send 50 amps to the trailer and fry the trailer's electrical system

The trailer ... asks , demands, requests power from the pedestal
"hey pedestal... they turned on the water heater and the air conditioner and the converter is charging the battery .... I need 25 amps (3000w) please"

the designed load is maximum of 30 amps in these trailers... 3600w
if the load IN the trailer exceeds 30amps by too much..... the main 30amp breaker in the trailer trips...

trailer and pedestal and the wires in-between.............. are all perfectly happy and playing nice together!
 

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