I want to hardwire RGB LED awning lights to old white LED wires

[marvitra]

Hi everyone,

My factory installed LED white awning lights went out and I purchased RGB LED light strip as a replacement from Amazon. The RGB light strip slid right in the slot where the old white LED light strip was easily.

SPARKE RGB Led Strip Lights, 16.4ft/5m LED Tape Light, 150 Pixels RGB 5050 Waterproof Strip with 28Keys Remote and Power Supply, Chasing Effect.​

I purchased this connection because the connection on the original wire on the RV had the same looking connection. It didn't work.

DGZZI SAE Plug to DC 5.5mm x 2.1mm Male Adapter Extension Cable SAE to DC Power Automotive Connector for Solar Panel Charge 20AWG​

I would like to hardwire the RGB LED lights into the RV like the white LED lights. I researched and watched a lot of videos but there were not any that addressed my issue. Do I need a driver? Can I cut the wire on the RGB light strip before female end and connect directly to RV wire? Do I cut the AC adapter wire after the male end and connect to RV wire? Is there another way that I'm not aware of? Can someone please help.

Thank you all.

​

 

[jimmoore13]

Is your new light strip 12 volts DC? That spec should be on the packaging.
ALSO: The wall wart (factory power supply) very likely changes 120 volt AC to a range of voltages DC. Look at the "data plate" on the back of the wall wart to see its voltage output.

Next -- assuming this light string is rated to run on 12 volts -- while in most cases polarity ( + or - ) doesn't matter much in some DC applications (such as standard incandescent light bulbs), polarity must be correct with LED lights. They work one way only. Since you are cutting/splicing wires to add the SAE connector, make sure you have the correct polarity. It's not likely to hurt anything to test both ways.

Technically, LED means "light emitting diode." Diodes are one way streets for electricity. Current will only flow in one direction, and nothing happens in the other direction. In fact, that's the primary purpose of a diode, to limit current flow to one direction only. Adding the light was a bit of genius that came much later in the evolution of electrical components.

Note that on the factory wall wart, the 2.1 mm concentric connector should have positive in the center and negative on the "sleeve." The same is true of your SAE to 2.1 mm adapter. If you have a multimeter, you should have continuity (zero ohms) between the center of the connector and one of the terminals on the SAE connector...very likely the one with the rubber shroud...not the bare tip. That terminal must marry up with the positive on the power supplied from the rig.

Imagining this connector on your rig, note that red (typically wired to the positive) goes to the "bare" side of the plug. Follow this logic through to your light fixture, and you will likely have the polarity right. Again, a multimeter can help by testing DC voltage at the connector on the rig. Place the test leads on the connector one way, and you'll get "negative" voltage....place them the other way (correctly) and you'll get positive voltage. That, too will tell you the polarity.

Verify the polarity of the wire from the rig's switch to the old light strip and connect your SAE adapter to that wire accordingly.

Don't have a multimeter? It's high time you owned one if you're going to be messing around with power. There are a zillion choices, but you can't go wrong with Klein tools, and at $35, it will last you a lifetime.

Good luck.

 

[dahagen]

I did it. Real simple. I cut the little 12 V pigtail on the plug side (opposite the plug into the LED strip) . I wired it into my porch light, which was 12 Volts.

 

[marvitra]

Is your new light strip 12 volts DC? That spec should be on the packaging.
ALSO: The wall wart (factory power supply) very likely changes 120 volt AC to a range of voltages DC. Look at the "data plate" on the back of the wall wart to see its voltage output.

Next -- assuming this light string is rated to run on 12 volts -- while in most cases polarity ( + or - ) doesn't matter much in some DC applications (such as standard incandescent light bulbs), polarity must be correct with LED lights. They work one way only. Since you are cutting/splicing wires to add the SAE connector, make sure you have the correct polarity. It's not likely to hurt anything to test both ways.

Technically, LED means "light emitting diode." Diodes are one way streets for electricity. Current will only flow in one direction, and nothing happens in the other direction. In fact, that's the primary purpose of a diode, to limit current flow to one direction only. Adding the light was a bit of genius that came much later in the evolution of electrical components.

Note that on the factory wall wart, the 2.1 mm concentric connector should have positive in the center and negative on the "sleeve." The same is true of your SAE to 2.1 mm adapter. If you have a multimeter, you should have continuity (zero ohms) between the center of the connector and one of the terminals on the SAE connector...very likely the one with the rubber shroud...not the bare tip. That terminal must marry up with the positive on the power supplied from the rig.

Imagining this connector on your rig, note that red (typically wired to the positive) goes to the "bare" side of the plug. Follow this logic through to your light fixture, and you will likely have the polarity right. Again, a multimeter can help by testing DC voltage at the connector on the rig. Place the test leads on the connector one way, and you'll get "negative" voltage....place them the other way (correctly) and you'll get positive voltage. That, too will tell you the polarity.

Verify the polarity of the wire from the rig's switch to the old light strip and connect your SAE adapter to that wire accordingly.

Don't have a multimeter? It's high time you owned one if you're going to be messing around with power. There are a zillion choices, but you can't go wrong with Klein tools, and at $35, it will last you a lifetime.

Good luck.

Thank you for such a detailed explanation. Yes, the new light strip is 12v DC. I cannot find the wall wart. I checked the power to the rv wires and it reads 12v on the multimeter. I forgot that I cut the SAE adapter off the RV wires. I think I can cut the female end off the light strip and connect directly to the rv wiring which will provide constant power when I turn the switch on and I can use the remote to change the light colors and modes. Will that work?

 

[firemedicmark]

I simply covered my factory white led light strip with this blue plastic tint material. Works great and comes in several colors.

Amazon.com

 

[jimmoore13]

Thank you for such a detailed explanation. Yes, the new light strip is 12v DC. I cannot find the wall wart. I checked the power to the rv wires and it reads 12v on the multimeter. I forgot that I cut the SAE adapter off the RV wires. I think I can cut the female end off the light strip and connect directly to the rv wiring which will provide constant power when I turn the switch on and I can use the remote to change the light colors and modes. Will that work?

Assuming the light strip works, your plan should work. If you can find the wall wart power supply that came with the light strip, it would be good to test it on a home outlet to ensure that it works...before you start cutting wires.

 

[jcrevs]

Yes, this works. I hard wire leds under the camper directly to battery, also anything that is 12v including marine grade radio head units

 

[marvitra]

I did it. I cut a small hole inside opposite the outside hole where the wires enter/exit the rv and found the wires had disconnected from the nut. I checked that the wires had power when turned on. I reconnected the wires in the wire nut and taped them in case they vibrated loose again. I hardwired my new RGB led strip light with the sensor and connections inside a weatherproof conduit body and glued the conduit body to the RV slightly angled down in case water gets in, it can drain. Viola! It works just fine. I had a hard time getting past the RGB multiple wires connection and the red and black supply wire being compatible.