Isata 3 Freedom Edition - Upgrades and Modification Thread

[Judge64]

Isata 3 Freedom Edition - Upgrades and Modifications Thread

I have been planning to start a thread to keep a list of Upgrades and Modifications for the Isata 3 Freedom Edition. Now that I have had a chance to start doing some upgrades and modifications, I thought I would post them to get this thread started.

Some of these will apply to any Isata 3 but others will be specific to the Freedom Edition.

Let the fun begin!

 

[Judge64]

Bathroom Upgrades

So one of my first upgrades was in the bathroom.

And before using the coach was the best time to upgrade the toilet. I installed a Dometic 310, which fit perfectly in the stock configuration; other than a minor plumbing modification. It adds about 30lbs but it has a ceramic bowl and the flush valve can be replaced easier than the Thetford if it fails.

I also added some addition towel storage in the space above the toilet to take advantage of the open wall space.


Here is the toilet I installed....

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-310-...id=1720898112&sprefix=dometic+,aps,101&sr=8-3


Here is the towel rack......

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D22NDZ24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Judge64]

Fresh Water Drain Electronic Ball Valve and Wireless Switch

My next upgrade was installing an electronic ball valve and wireless switch for the fresh water tank drain.

Dynamax made it easy to access the drain valve but it can only be accessed with the slide open. I came up with this idea from my previous Super C where Thor required you to disassemble the king size bed to access the fresh water tank drain.... or change the water filter... or winterize it! After doing that a couple times I looked for a better way of draining the fresh water tank and it worked great for four years.

I was able to easily tap into the 12V the valve needed from the USB Ports on the side of the bed. The wireless switch comes with two remotes so you can keep one up front and start draining the tank with a push of the button when you get home.


Here is the ball valve that I used.....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WWPZWGZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the wireless switch that I used.....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFH6VQH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Judge64]

3-Stage Onboard Water Filter

I can't take credit for this upgrade..... I have to give credit to Dave (beari) for this idea. I looked far and wide and this is the only 3-stage water filter system that will fit under the bed and allow for easy change of the filters with the minimal space available.

But this sucker ain't cheap...... a whopping $399 and $60 for replacement filters!

This will allow us to ditch carrying the Brita Filter we used to carry in our Super C and it also really eliminate the need for an inline filter on the city water hose.


Here is a link to the filter......

https://goblutech.com/collections/w...ron-coconut-charcoal-sediment-stainless-steel

 

[Judge64]

IRVWPC2 Water Pump Controller

The next upgrade was to install the IRVWPC2 Water Pump Controller to better control low water flows and prevent the pump from pulsating / hammering and reduce the associated noise. I had installed an Accumulator Tank in my Super C to help with this issue but there wasn't the space to add it in the Freedom Edition. This was more expensive but it works great and it is easy to install.



Here is the link to the cheapest price I could find......

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/shop-s/1180.htm?Search=irvwpc2

 

[Judge64]

Central RV Vacuum

One of the nice features I added to my Super C was the Dirt Devil Central RV Vacuum. Tiffin also offers it on the Wayfarer. I took it out of the Super C before trading it in hopes of using it on the Isata 3.

I was losing hope of finding a good place to install it without using valuable storage space and making all of the logistics work. But after a couple weeks of banging my I was able to come up with a solution. I was able to mount it behind the recliners and use the space there.

It is almost impossible to remove the recliner seat backs without standing behind the seats once they are installed. But you can pull the middle seat back forward and just be able to access the release tabs to lift out the seat back. That allowed me to remove some of the seat belts we will never use and also install the vacuum main unit easily.

Installing it behind the middle recliner was a perfect location plus power was available with an open outlet behind the recliners. Behind the middle recliner also allows for easy access to the unit to change out the bags when they get full.

Figuring out where to mount the hose connection and power on mechanism was the next challenge. But I was able to mount it under the middle recliner so it can be access when it is fully reclined. When you open the access door, the vacuum turns on automatically and you just plug in the hose.

The Dirt Devil RV Central Vaccum Kit comes with a bunch of attachments, The hose was long enough to reach everywhere inside my 36" Super C.... including the cab... so this will cover all the ground in the Isata 3 as well.


Here is the link to the unit I bought several years ago.....

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Dirt-Devil-CV1500-With-Vroom-RV-Retractable-Hose-p/9775.htm

 

[Judge64]

Spare Tire Carrier

Another upgrade I kept from the Super C was the Roadmaster Spare Tire Carrier.

I seriously considered purchasing the under-chassis spare tire carrier for the Sprinter and figuring out a way to mount it and make it work for carrying a spare tire. But after looking at the black / grey tank drain and sewer storage compartment.... and realizing I'm 60 and crawling under the coach is loosing its allure.... I opted to use the Roadmaster Spare Tire Carrier that I had kept.

The carrier and the spare tire add about 130lbs so that will knock down your CCC and tongue weight. The Roadmaster Spare Tire Carrier is expensive.... but you never have to lift the tire off the ground to get it on or off. When I had the Super C it had 19.5" wheels and the spare tire weighed over 100lbs so lifting it was not trivial. Roadmaster's design is great. The Sprinter spare tire is much lighter but this is still the best and easiest way to carry a spare.

Oh.... and the cover I found matches the Freedom Edition graphics perfectly!



Here is the link to the Tire Carrier.....

https://www.amazon.com/Roadmaster-1...99220&sprefix=roadmaster+spare,aps,102&sr=8-1


Here is the link to the good deal on a new spare tire and rim.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3853637973...-b0d2-6e74af3e122d|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage


Here is the link to the spare tire cover.....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D21ZQJRC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[Judge64]

Starlink Installation

I have been using Starlink for over two years and it works great so I have been trying to figure out how I wanted to install it on the Isata 3 Freedom Edition.

I really wanted to install the Router in the cabinet above the fridge and then run the data cable out the hole in the floor used for the Truma Combi drain behind the Power Control Center. But after several attempts of trying to run a wire with a Fish Tape, I determined the fridge would have to come out to get the data cable run properly. It doesn't look that hard to remove the fridge but I started looking at other options.

I finally decided on installing it under the bed with the remaining space I had left after all of the other upgrades..... and so I could take advantage of the ventilation hole under the bed for the battery compartment to run wiring. I did some signal tests and the bed enclosure and mattress don't hurt the signal-to-noise much at all so I decided that was an easy place to get it installed and give me the flexibility I wanted with Dish placement.

I already had the Xantrex Optional GFCI Outlet that I took off my Super C and installed that for AC power for the Starlink Router. Then I ran a short extension cord through the ventilation hole under the bed and installed a smart outlet so I could easily power the Starlink Router On or Off.

The I bought a mounting kit off Amazon and used Velcro to mount the power supply and the Router itself. I also got a CAT8 extention and ran it down to the battery compartment so I could plug the Starlink Dish into it there.

But after thinking about it.... the easy way was not the best way. I don't always want to leave the battery compartment door open. Bugs, mice and snakes could get into the battery compartment and then into the ventilation hole under the bed.

So I think am going to install a female connector with a waterproof cap where the Black and Grey Tank drain controls are located. I can use a 1" hole saw to cut a hole and mount it where I have the red arrow in the picture below. It is wide open behind these controls under the coach and easy to access. I can run the data cable out the hole in the battery compartment with all of the other wiring already there before I seal it up permanently with spray foam.

So this upgrade is still a work in progress but close to completion.

I thought about mounting the Dish on the roof with a quick disconnect mount but after using Starklink for over two years having the flexibility to move the Dish in heavily wooded campsites is important. I also didn't like the idea of having to pull out the ladder to get off the roof and put it back on if I needed to move it for better coverage.

I opted for the FlagPole Buddy Hitch Mount. I had their Ladder Mount solution and it worked well so this is a good alternative with a ladder. This will allow me to put it up in the air and still have the ability to put the Dish on the ground to move around the coach for a better line of site if needed because of tree cover.


Here is the mount I purchased for the Router and power supply....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D12QWX59?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


Here the link for the CAT8 extension with female connector....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BL3YMB2B?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


Here is the link for the Xantrex Optional GFCI Outlet.....

https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Free...1720901194&sprefix=xantrex+gfci,aps,98&sr=8-1


Here is the link to the CAT8 outlet I am going to install in the Black / Grey Tank Control compartment......

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMFBJTTG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Here is the link to the FlagPole Buddy Starlink Hitch Mount Setup….

https://flagpolebuddy.com/products/ols/products/gen-2-or-gen-3-starlink-hitch-kit

 

[Judge64]

Xantrex Bluetooth Remote Control Panel

So the very first upgrade I actually did on my Isata 3 Freedom Edition..... was installing the Xantrex Bluetooth Remote Control Panel the day that I brought it home from the dealer.

Xantrex makes two Remote Control Panels; one with Bluetooth and one without. My Super C had the Remote Control Panel w/o Bluetooth but I upgraded it to the one with Bluetooth when it became available. I also kept that upgrade as well when I traded-in my Super C!

The Remote Control Panel is a very simple installation. There is a data cable where one end plugs into the Inverter and the other end plugs into the Remote Control Panel. I ran the data cable through the battery compartment ventilation hole under the bed.

I just got around to permanently mounting it after having it laying next to the water pump for several weeks. I was thinking about mounting it next to the eGen Display since that is where it would come from the factory....... but that was going to be more work than I wanted to get into.... and it has been working fine for me under the bed. So today I mounted the Remote Control Panel next to the new 3-stage water filter.

The Xantrex app makes it very easy to change the Inverter Settings that are not available on the FireFly Display. It also allows you to monitor the performance of the Inverter and Charger. The Remote Control Panel also makes it easier to power cycle the Inverter, if necessary.

Please note..... You must turn the power button to OFF on the Control Panel built into the Inverter in order for the Remote Control Panel to take complete control of the Inverter / Charger.


Here is the link for the Xantrex Optional Bluetooth Remote Control Panel....

https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Free...720901873&sprefix=xantrex+blue,aps,102&sr=8-1

 

[Bearii-FRF]

I have been planning to start a thread to keep a list of Upgrades and Modifications for the Isata 3 Freedom Edition. Now that I have had a chance to start doing some upgrades and modifications, I thought I would post them to get this thread started.

Some of these will apply to any Isata 3 but others will be specific to the Freedom Edition.

Let the fun begin!

Awesome idea to have this thread. We've done several of the same ones but I'll add some others in the future too and comment on the existing ones. Maybe you could share this link in the FB group too. Nice work!

 

[Judge64]

Awesome idea to have this thread. We've done several of the same ones but I'll add some others in the future too and comment on the existing ones. Maybe you could share this link in the FB group too. Nice work!

Thanks!

I did post the link on the Facebook site as well.

 

[Bearii-FRF]

Another upgrade I kept from the Super C was the Roadmaster Spare Tire Carrier.

I seriously considered purchasing the under-chassis spare tire carrier for the Sprinter and figuring out a way to mount it and make it work for carrying a spare tire. But after looking at the black / grey tank drain and sewer storage compartment.... and realizing I'm 60 and crawling under the coach is loosing its allure.... I opted to use the Roadmaster Spare Tire Carrier that I had kept.

The carrier and the spare tire add about 130lbs so that will knock down your CCC and tongue weight. The Roadmaster Spare Tire Carrier is expensive.... but you never have to lift the tire off the ground to get it on or off. When I had the Super C it had 19.5" wheels and the spare tire weighed over 100lbs so lifting it was not trivial. Roadmaster's design is great. The Sprinter spare tire is much lighter but this is still the best and easiest way to carry a spare.

Oh.... and the cover I found matches the Freedom Edition graphics perfectly!



Here is the link to the Tire Carrier.....

https://www.amazon.com/Roadmaster-1...99220&sprefix=roadmaster+spare,aps,102&sr=8-1


Here is the link to the good deal on a new spare tire and rim.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3853637973...-b0d2-6e74af3e122d|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage


Here is the link to the spare tire cover.....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D21ZQJRC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Nice solution! I opted to try the cheaper version of this (https://www.etrailer.com/Spare_Tire_Carrier/etrailer/e98ZR.html) but it was a big fail. I misunderstood the lug measurements in their diagram, the spare tire wouldn't fit. After returning it and considering Brian's suggestion to put it in the toad to avoid the extra weight I decided to go that route. It's working out fine in the toad. I turn it upside down and it conveniently holds two of my tool bags

Love the cover!

 

[Judge64]

Sprinter Onboard Chassis Battery Maintainer

It's Amazon Prime Day today and I was waiting to see if the Noco Battery Charger products were going to be on sale for my next upgrade..... and they are.

I just ordered the Noco Genius 2D, which is a 2-Amp Direct Mount Battery Maintainer. It is not designed to charge a dead battery over 40Ah but it is designed to maintain all batteries regardless of size. I plan to install it in the Sprinter and use the outlet in the overhead bunk to power it.

Noco makes some good products. I mounted their dual bank battery maintainer / charger in my boat and I have several other Noco charger / maintainers for some other toys.

The Genius 2D is designed for all-season, all-weather charging for a healthy battery, and be plugged in 24/7 with no worries of overcharging. It also automatically returns to its last selected mode and can detect a bad battery and disable itself.

I will likely mount it inside the battery compartment and then run an extension cord up to the outlet in the overhead bunk. I'll post pictures once I get it done but wanted to post this now in case anyone else wants to buy one while it is on sale. it is normally $40.


https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2...12-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

 

[Judge64]

Battery Compartment Powered Ventilation

So another one of my upgrades is powered ventilation for the battery compartment to reduce temperatures when operating in hot climates. I had the general concept already planned with using a boat bilge blower..... but I have been refining it a bit as I looked at the best way to implement it over the past couple weeks.

The biggest challenge was finding a location to cut a 3" hole in the steel battery box. I didn't want to remove the batteries or Inverter if at all possible because of the weight. There is also a leveling jack on the side of the battery box and some chassis components that could come into play.

After spending some time crawling under the coach and looking inside the battery compartment, I think I found the perfect location to cut the hole and it would a fairly easy placement. In the picture below there is just enough space to cut a 3" hole below where the red arrow is pointing below the Solar Disconnect Switch. This will eliminate the need to remove anything and it will be easy to vauue out the metal shavings.

I also think there will be enough room next to the first battery to mount the bilge blower. I originally planned to mount it outside the battery box under the chassis but I think I can mount it on the bottom of the compartment and then run a short piece of aluminum vent hose to a vent placed in the hole with a big screen.

I was also going to use another wireless switch w/ remote to turn it off and on as needed like I installed for the fresh water tank drain...... but after thinking more about it I wanted the bilge blower to run automatically based on temperature inside the compartment.

I found a temperature controlled 12V switch / thermostat that I think will work great. I can easily tap into 12V under the bed or in the battery compartment and then set the temperature to 95F. Once the battery compartment reaches 95F, the bilge blower will suck the hot air out of the battery box and blow it out the vent while pulling some cooler air from under the bed. The bilge blower only draws 2.6A so it won't be much of a drain on the batteries.

I ordered all of the parts on Amazon along with a 3" Hole Saw for Metal for cutting the hole. I'll see how all the pieces look and fit together and if it does as I envision, I'll cut the hole and get it installed. The hole project should cost me less than $75.

 

[Judge64]

Sprinter Onboard Chassis Battery Maintainer

Amazon delivered the Noco Genius 2D 2-Amp Direct Mount Battery Maintainer today so I decided to tackle that project while I had some time.

It is a small unit; small enough it could fit into the chassis battery compartment. The leads were a little shorter than I am used to but since it is a 2-Amp maintainer, they don't want a lot of voltage drop. Even though it would fit I decided that I didn't want to put the maintainer inside the battery box so I could see the status LED to know that it was working properly. The maintainer will tell you if the battery is charging, fully charged, too hot to charge, or in standby.

Hooking up the negative cable was a bit of a challenge. The ring terminal wasn't big enough to go around the negative battery post and it was a little too big to go over the bolt that tightens the terminal in place. I managed to use a washer and an M6 Nylok nut to secure the negative cable adequately. There were a couple of places for the positive cable that fit the ring terminal well.

There was some conduit with wiring next to the driver's seat where I could run the battery cables. I used some Velcro to secure the maintainer to the side of the driver's seat base and then ran the AC cable behind the drivers seat.

I just ordered a 20' extension cord that I will plug into outlet in the cab-over bunk area, run it around the outside of the mattress and then down behind the driver's seat. The most the maintainer will draw is 5A so a 13A rated extension cord should be fine.

Here are some pictures of the final install and the link to the Noco Maintainer......

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2...12-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

 

[Judge64]

Sprinter Onboard Chassis Battery Maintainer

I'm pleased with the Noco 2D Battery Maintainer. When I installed it yesterday, it was in charging mode and the Mercedes Me application said the battery was "Partially" charged.

This morning the Mercedes app said "Charged" and the LED on the Noco was flashing green, which means the battery is between 75% - 100% charged and also during battery optimization. When it is solid green the battery is 100% charged and idle.

I was wondering if the 2-Amp maintainer was going to be adequate or whether I should have gone with the 5-Amp single bank mounted marine maintainer since there are so many electronic systems with parasitic draws at times with the Sprinter. But given the maintainer and app indicate the battery is now fully charged after 12 hours, I think the 2D will work out well. As long as there is shore or Inverter AC power in the coach, the chassis battery should stay fully charged. If I put the coach in long term storage and shut down the batteries and the Inverter, then I will use the battery quick disconnect under the dash to isolate the chassis battery.

I'm glad I did this upgrade. I just saw a post this morning on the Facebook site that someone with a 2020 Isata 3 had a dead battery and after charing the battery they cannot get the Sprinter out Park. I have seen a lot of posts with dead batteries in the Sprinter followed by all sorts of system errors after charging or replacing the battery. It was one of my motivations for doing this upgrade and making sure the chassis battery stays fully charged when the coach is sitting idle for several days.

 

[Judge64]

Starlink Installation

I finished my Starlink installation today and I'm happy with the way it turned out.

I was originally going to leave the battery compartment door open and plug in the Dish cable there. But as I thought about it I didn't want bugs, mice or snakes getting in and then coming up through the ventilation hole under the bed. My goal is to keep the battery compartment closed and locked once I install a powered ventilation system.

I got a 1" hole saw for steel and cut a hole between the handles for the black and grey tank drains. Even thought my RJ-45 port has a weather tight cap on it, putting it inside the black and grey tank drain compartment will keep it sealed from the elements for sure and make for a quick and easy connect and disconnect.

I then ran the cable into the battery compartment through the exit hole for the wiring. I put some wire loom around it to prevent chaffing from rubbing against the metal. Once I install the powered ventilation for the battery compartment, I will seal up the exit hole for the wiring with some spray foam. That's next on the list once I receive all of the parts for it over the next few days.

I also received the FlagPole Buddy Hitch Mount Kit. It is a very good quality product and will make it easy to put the Dish in the air to get above tree cover when needed.

 

[Judge64]

Battery Compartment Powered Ventilation

Amazon just showed up with some of the parts for my Powered Ventilation system for the battery compartment.

I think its going to work out better than I had hoped. The bilge blower and aluminum hose is the perfect size for the open space on the floor and it will line up perfectly where I want to cut the hole below the Solar Disconnect Switch. I'm going to be able to mount the blower inside the compartment to push the hot air out and pull cooler air from under the bed instead of mounting it outside the compartment as I was originally thinking. It will be better protected from the elements, etc. inside the compartment.

I've got a couple different vents with screens to try and just waiting for a 3" hole saw that will cut the steel below the Solar Disconnect and also waiting for the 12V Thermostat Switch.

Here is a picture of what it would like like just laying the blower and the hose in the compartment to where it would connect with the exhaust vent.

 

[Bearii-FRF]

I finished my Starlink installation today and I'm happy with the way it turned out.

I was originally going to leave the battery compartment door open and plug in the Dish cable there. But as I thought about it I didn't want bugs, mice or snakes getting in and then coming up through the ventilation hole under the bed. My goal is to keep the battery compartment closed and locked once I install a powered ventilation system.

I got a 1" hole saw for steel and cut a hole between the handles for the black and grey tank drains. Even thought my RJ-45 port has a weather tight cap on it, putting it inside the black and grey tank drain compartment will keep it sealed from the elements for sure and make for a quick and easy connect and disconnect.

I then ran the cable into the battery compartment through the exit hole for the wiring. I put some wire loom around it to prevent chaffing from rubbing against the metal. Once I install the powered ventilation for the battery compartment, I will seal up the exit hole for the wiring with some spray foam. That's next on the list once I receive all of the parts for it over the next few days.

I also received the FlagPole Buddy Hitch Mount Kit. It is a very good quality product and will make it easy to put the Dish in the air to get above tree cover when needed.

As always nice work! Do you have a link for your RJ45 port? I need to find one that carries the ground wire through the wall. Did you test yours to be sure the Starlink works?

 

[Judge64]

Starlink Installation

As always nice work! Do you have a link for your RJ45 port? I need to find one that carries the ground wire through the wall. Did you test yours to be sure the Starlink works?

Seems to work like a champ! Dish boots and it gets hot when I turn on the Snow / Ice Melt feature.

I had the Starlink Gen 2 hardware but bought the Gen 3 hardware when the price dropped because the Gen 3 Dish is easier to store. It fits perfectly in the cabinet above the fridge. I'm going to keep the Gen 2 hardware at home in Florida in case we get another hurricane that knocks out phone and Internet for a long period of time.

Here are the two connectors I used. The first one I ran from the router down into the battery compartment. The second one is the one I mounted in the tank drain compartment and connected the other end connected inside the battery compartment.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BL3YMB2B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMFBJTTG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details



I also ordered special adapter that will allow me to replace the Starlink cable with a standard CAT6 or CAT8 ethernet cable. Starlink Gen 2 and Gen 3 will work with a CAT6 / CAT 8 shielded ethernet cable. There are now third party adapters that will allow you to use the ethernet cable on either a Gen 2 or Gen 3 system.

The Starlink cable us working with the standard Ethernet port but I have to use a jewelers screwdriver to release it when I want to remove it. The ports in the router and Dish are just a light pull-force release vs the press-clip on the ethernet cables.

With this adapter, I can just use a regular ethernet cable of a length I choose.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8T8YL7M?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details