Leak from water inlet fitting behind thetford toilet

[Nhyrum]

We have an 08 surveyor and the water line going to the back of the toilet is leaking from the threads. I can't find a model number on the toilet but it's a thetford with a lever to flush, not a pedal/pedals. The toilet is so close to the back wall I can barley get two fingers from one hand and like my thumb from the other to try to tighten it any(don't want to go too tight and crack the plastic), which makes me leary of even trying to loosen it to try to put some Teflon tape on the threads. I've only tried getting hands on it and not any type of tool, as I don't believe it should need a wrench to be tight enough to not leak, and it's going to be far too easy to over tighten it with a pair of pliers, if I can get them on it, let alone I don't like leaving plier marks on stuff,I feel like it's a sign of not using the right tool.

The previous owners did a bit of remodeling(reflooring and I believe they changed up the seating areas over the wheel well and the slide out) and while most of the plumbing looks factory(crimped connections on the PEX) at the 90 that goes vertical up to the problem fitting and the valve is a push connect 90, and I'd really like to avoid pulling the toilet just to tighten the fitting. Can you get a pair of slip joint pliers back there? If I can, Teflon tape and pliers just to get it a bit more snug than hand tight I think will be my ticket.

 

[Puma26RLSS]

We have an 08 surveyor and the water line going to the back of the toilet is leaking from the threads. I can't find a model number on the toilet but it's a thetford with a lever to flush, not a pedal/pedals. The toilet is so close to the back wall I can barley get two fingers from one hand and like my thumb from the other to try to tighten it any(don't want to go too tight and crack the plastic), which makes me leary of even trying to loosen it to try to put some Teflon tape on the threads. I've only tried getting hands on it and not any type of tool, as I don't believe it should need a wrench to be tight enough to not leak, and it's going to be far too easy to over tighten it with a pair of pliers, if I can get them on it, let alone I don't like leaving plier marks on stuff,I feel like it's a sign of not using the right tool.

The previous owners did a bit of remodeling(reflooring and I believe they changed up the seating areas over the wheel well and the slide out) and while most of the plumbing looks factory(crimped connections on the PEX) at the 90 that goes vertical up to the problem fitting and the valve is a push connect 90, and I'd really like to avoid pulling the toilet just to tighten the fitting. Can you get a pair of slip joint pliers back there? If I can, Teflon tape and pliers just to get it a bit more snug than hand tight I think will be my ticket.

I have developed the same problem. I am afraid I panicked while camping. I tried to find a way to tighten the two plastic nuts, but it seemed to leak regardless of which way I turned the fittings. So I got out the only two tools I had with me--Endura roof tape and silicone sealant. Smothered the fitting in both. Still had a slight leak. Filled the fresh water tank and used the onboard pump instead of city water, thinking that would have lower pressure. got through the next three days and returned home. Now I have mess back there and no good plan for fixing it. You have any advice?

 

[Nhyrum]

I have developed the same problem. I am afraid I panicked while camping. I tried to find a way to tighten the two plastic nuts, but it seemed to leak regardless of which way I turned the fittings. So I got out the only two tools I had with me--Endura roof tape and silicone sealant. Smothered the fitting in both. Still had a slight leak. Filled the fresh water tank and used the onboard pump instead of city water, thinking that would have lower pressure. got through the next three days and returned home. Now I have mess back there and no good plan for fixing it. You have any advice?

Mine had one of those push to connect 90's on the water line, I believe it's where they cut the line to remove the toilet to refloor the trailer before we bought it. I just removed the 90 and capped the line.

I plan on putting in an inline quarter turn shut off, and just turn it on when flushing the toilet. I think the problem is going to be remembering to shut it back off

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PLUMBFL...hut-Off-Chrome-pack-of-2-12122UPSSP/309012799

 

[Puma26RLSS]

Mine had one of those push to connect 90's on the water line, I believe it's where they cut the line to remove the toilet to refloor the trailer before we bought it. I just removed the 90 and capped the line.

I plan on putting in an inline quarter turn shut off, and just turn it on when flushing the toilet. I think the problem is going to be remembering to shut it back off

PLUMBFLEX 1/2 in. Push to Connect x 1/2 in. Push 1/4 Turn Straight Stop Valve Water Shut Off Chrome pack of 2 12122UPSSP - The Home Depot

I am assuming you will need to remove the toilet in order to gain access to the plastic water line to install the new fitting. I am sure I will have to with my mess. Hopefully I can find a DIY video on YouTube. Do you have any advice about how to remove and reinstall a toilet?

 

[Nhyrum]

I am assuming you will need to remove the toilet in order to gain access to the plastic water line to install the new fitting. I am sure I will have to with my mess. Hopefully I can find a DIY video on YouTube. Do you have any advice about how to remove and reinstall a toilet?

If you have access to the water line at all, all you need to do is cut maybe a half inch out and slip the fitting between the two. On my trailer the water line comes out above floor level and runs to the toilet, along the wall shared with the bedroom, then the 90 up to the back of the toilet, so access to the line is easy. It should be just blue PEX plastic tube. It's pretty easy to cut and they make cutters for it. You don't even really have to cut a section out, the tube should be flexible enough to accommodate the extra room, but if you look down the end of the fitting, you should be able to see roughly how far in the fitting the tube goes, if you make a mark on the outside of the fitting from each end, measure between the two marks and you'll get roughly how much needs to come out to not change the length too much. Cut out as small a piece as you think you need, because it's always easier to cut just a little off than have to get more tube because it's too short now. Get as square of a cut as you can, and with the push connect fittings(shark bite is a big brand) just make sure the tube is fully seated. The cap i got to cap off my line as a temporary fix has a little indicator on the side that will let you know when it's fully seated.

I'll try to take pictures and show you how mine is set up. But If you've got the same toilet I do, the water line has to come up from the floor or out of the wall somewhere. It won't fix the leaking fixture, just minimize the leaking to the few seconds the water is on being flushed