Loud ac

[Mborodawg]

Is the ac on a 2007 sv 100t always loud? What can I do to make quite?

Thanks

 

[Oaklevel]

Yes 2007s are loud. Possibly replace with a ness noisy unit

 

[Mborodawg]

Don't like your answer ..just kidding. I don't plan on camping in middle of a hot summer but hoped. Was hoping to make the maiden voyage this weekend but 90% chance of rain.now shooting for two weeks

 

[Oaklevel]

RV AC units are loud have always been that way...................... So some switching to mini splits and some of the newers are less loud........... (not much).

 

[bikendan]

Is the ac on a 2007 sv 100t always loud? What can I do to make quite?

Thanks

That's an old school Blast from the Center a/c, which were noisier than current BftC a/cs.
That's why I bought my 2007 Rockwood trailer because it had the much quieter ducted a/c.
The only way to get a quieter a/c, is to buy a RV with ducted a/c's.

 

[jimmarako]

The ducted A/C's aren't all that quiet either. I did the mod where you block off the center dump option and add the plenum channels to move the air better. It helps.
Now I've seen videos of the newer RV's like the Montana's and Grand Designs that have very quiet ducted A/C units but I've never been in one to tell.

Jim M.

 

[Oaklevel]

Our 2017 Destination trailer has 2 ACs both ducted. I have a hard time hearing the TV over the noise..... Same as the non ducted we had in the 1980s.

 

[kendive]

The ducted A/C's aren't all that quiet either. I did the mod where you block off the center dump option and add the plenum channels to move the air better. It helps.
Now I've seen videos of the newer RV's like the Montana's and Grand Designs that have very quiet ducted A/C units but I've never been in one to tell.

Jim M.

Yea the Brinkley's have those and you don't hear it running at all.

I did the mod on ours and made a huge difference. You can quite them down alot.



.

 

[tomkatb]

Soft starts dull the pain a bit.

They start the ac’s two motors separately.

Better. Not quiet though. Easier to tolerate is a better statement.

Also allows a 2000 watt generator to start the AC.

 

[jjscsix]

It is one of my two complaints about things that seem to be inherent to RV travel trailers. One is the loud AC and the other is that every time my wife moves I feel it through the floor, and vice versa

 

[Aussieguy]

although most a/c are noisy you can lower the volume down a bit by giving the coils and fans a good clean
and checking the parts inside the air return for mismatched joints

use the a/c tape (silver color) to smooth out any misaligned parts ... and gaps in the air handler section
make everything as nice and smooth as possible .... (turbulence = noise)
look at the filter... too clean, no gaps and it fits tight



If you ever decide to look at a new a/c
look for a variable speed unit ............... like the Furrin Chill "Cube"
These newer A/Cs.... are not only quieter but uses a lot less power and you won't need a soft start for a smaller generator

depending on the layout and size of the RV ..... there are also the mini splits
or
you can modify a small window unit to fit under cabinet or elesewhere
but- this is a lot extra work

 

[RhumbleFish]

Yeah, a little impactful, isn't it? (or, aren't they)? and as soon as you notice either issue bothering you, you start paying attention... and that makes it both issues so much worse.

One is the loud AC

There's only so much you can do without changing out the unit itself (and there are newer, quieter versions coming on line, including inverter ACs and heat pumps). As others have indicated, for your existing system, you can: (1) add a soft start - that will significantly reduce the initial inrush (and kill the big 'WOOMPH" of startup), but you'll still hear the system running; and (2) install the plenum channels (either the dedicated solutions or the do-it-yourself foam board built 'wedge') that the blocks off the center dump and better forces the air into the ducts to improve flow - and subsequently reduce a little noise. Both are better than not doing anything.

the other is that every time my wife moves I feel it through the floor, and vice versa

With a towable trailer, all this undesired motion is a function of being in a box on a suspension with mere stabilizing braces at the corners (not leveling jacks, mind you - those support the weight of the coach; stab jacks just work to stabilize the coach, and let the weight be carried on the suspension and front jack). You've got jounce (sort of a combo of jolt and bounce) and shimmy (side to side rocking) - often all together, it's a confusing and somewhat upsetting feeling for your body to be moved in accordance with some one else's efforts. You won't notice it nearly as much if you're moving, too, and - even less so if you're the one causing these motions.

The good news is that everything you do to brace your trailer will help to some degree - though some things more than others. 1. Chocking your trailer. 2a. Putting down the stabilizing jacks (firmly, but not too tight - you can't lift the coach, just shore it up - these help reduce up and down motion, but not side-to-side) and - lesser known - 2b. Limiting the height of the stab jacks (the FURTHER the stab jacks are deployed, the longer the lever arm is, and - subsequently - the less successful the jacks are at reducing side-to-side motions... not that they are very good at doing this in the first place). You're likely already doing these things.

Now, take it a step further: 3. Installing X-chocks for multi-axle trailers to tie the axles and suspensions together (these are REALLY not as much help as you'd like, but better than not doing them). 4. Stabilizing the stabilizing jacks (with crossbracing like the JT Strongarm, SteadyFast or even the Lock Arm system). Basically: firm diagonal bracing means fixing the stab jack foot in position and a LOT less slop in your stab jacks. A note on these systems - (A) the bigger and firmer the triangles formed, and cool: the more dimensions the support is added in (fore and aft AND side to side), the more stable your RV will be. Systems that (C) more directly attach to the very feet of the stab jacks, (D) more positively the arms lock at desired length and (E) have the least amount of slop in the system will provide the greatest additional stability. Lastly, 5. Fixing the coach's frame to the ground. This is about as out of bounds as one can get, as these are TRAVEL trailers, designed to be moved. Setting the entire frame on the ground (or connecting it firmly, with LOTS of support) will significantly stablize the rig, but at the cost of ease and opportunity to move the rig (this is MOSTLY ridiculous flight of fancy, but - yes - adding additional/supplemental jacking/bracing can help).

These steps are listed in order of ease and inverse cost - the further into the list you get, the cost and effort goes up, but so does the amount of stability you'll gain. IMHO, the stabilizing bar systems will get you as good a result as you can reasonably get.

There are other things one can do and other systems one can employ, but I think the listed steps above are a pretty solid approach (eg, one could also make a do-it-yourself bracing system with angled wooden crossbeams that are attached to the frame at two points and tied together with some strapping, but that's a different approach).

Just my .02, there's likely a lot of stuff that can be said on the topic. Hope this helps.

 

[jjscsix]

Yeah, a little impactful, isn't it? (or, aren't they)? and as soon as you notice either issue bothering you, you start paying attention... and that makes it both issues so much worse.


There's only so much you can do without changing out the unit itself (and there are newer, quieter versions coming on line, including inverter ACs and heat pumps). As others have indicated, for your existing system, you can: (1) add a soft start - that will significantly reduce the initial inrush (and kill the big 'WOOMPH" of startup), but you'll still hear the system running; and (2) install the plenum channels (either the dedicated solutions or the do-it-yourself foam board built 'wedge') that the blocks off the center dump and better forces the air into the ducts to improve flow - and subsequently reduce a little noise. Both are better than not doing anything.


With a towable trailer, all this undesired motion is a function of being in a box on a suspension with mere stabilizing braces at the corners (not leveling jacks, mind you - those support the weight of the coach; stab jacks just work to stabilize the coach, and let the weight be carried on the suspension and front jack). You've got jounce (sort of a combo of jolt and bounce) and shimmy (side to side rocking) - often all together, it's a confusing and somewhat upsetting feeling for your body to be moved in accordance with some one else's efforts. You won't notice it nearly as much if you're moving, too, and - even less so if you're the one causing these motions.

The good news is that everything you do to brace your trailer will help to some degree - though some things more than others. 1. Chocking your trailer. 2a. Putting down the stabilizing jacks (firmly, but not too tight - you can't lift the coach, just shore it up - these help reduce up and down motion, but not side-to-side) and - lesser known - 2b. Limiting the height of the stab jacks (the FURTHER the stab jacks are deployed, the longer the lever arm is, and - subsequently - the less successful the jacks are at reducing side-to-side motions... not that they are very good at doing this in the first place). You're likely already doing these things.

Now, take it a step further: 3. Installing X-chocks for multi-axle trailers to tie the axles and suspensions together (these are REALLY not as much help as you'd like, but better than not doing them). 4. Stabilizing the stabilizing jacks (with crossbracing like the JT Strongarm, SteadyFast or even the Lock Arm system). Basically: firm diagonal bracing means fixing the stab jack foot in position and a LOT less slop in your stab jacks. A note on these systems - (A) the bigger and firmer the triangles formed, and cool: the more dimensions the support is added in (fore and aft AND side to side), the more stable your RV will be. Systems that (C) more directly attach to the very feet of the stab jacks, (D) more positively the arms lock at desired length and (E) have the least amount of slop in the system will provide the greatest additional stability. Lastly, 5. Fixing the coach's frame to the ground. This is about as out of bounds as one can get

These steps are listed in order of ease and inverse cost - the further into the list you get, the cost and effort goes up, but so does the amount of stability you'll gain. IMHO, the stabilizing bar systems will get you as good a result as you can reasonably get.

There are other things one can do and other systems one can employ, but I think the listed steps above are a pretty solid approach (eg, one could also make a do-it-yourself bracing system with angled wooden crossbeams that are attached to the frame at two points and tied together with some strapping, but that's a different approach).

Just my .02, there's likely a lot of stuff that can be said on the topic. Hope this helps. could be wrong, but I believe what I am feeling is the floor itself flexing.

Thanks for your thoughts.

I could be wrong, but I really believe that what we are feeling is the floor itself flexing. I have considered trying some additional jacks to firm up the frame.

As to the AC, I know all about soft starts. The start up does not sound any louder than the continuous running. Both of our units have a “dump” opening which is very loud, but even in the closed mode it is a lot louder than is pleasant. Many of our days we need it in the dump mode because we have frequently used the trailer on 95-100 degree days.