Master switch controls voltage to emergency brake

[bubbalowe]

Learned something new today wish the dealer would of told me. My 2016 Forest River 29HFS feeds battery current to the master switch and then back out to the tongue where several breakers are mounted. The voltage to the emergency break away switch comes from one of these switched breaker rather than directly off the batteries. We have a 3 way fridge and normally tow with propane off and master switch on and have been very fortunate. It came as a little shock to think if the master switch is off there's no break in two protection.

 

[TitanMike]

Some never tow with master switch off as they charge their batteries from tow vehicle while driving.

Because Dealers in general are very unreliable in advising their customers on all trailer systems it's imperative that customers explore the systems themselves and demand answers from dealers.

The more one learns at the beginning the easier it is to address issues later.

Also, a key piece of equipment in every RV toolbox is a basic Multimeter capable of measuring Voltage, "Ohms" ( for continuity of fuses, switches, etc) and as a bonus having the ability to measure AC and DC current using a clamp-over-wire" feature. Relatively inexpensive and can provide answers as to why an electrical device is not working.

 

[Aussieguy]

and it sounds like your breakers are in a better spot than mine...
I have to crawl UNDER and look at the frame.... not on the tongue

If you bought that new... sound like you have had a good run on the electrics/battery (Touch wood)

bet they didn't tell you you can run the 12v stuff when plugged into shorepower
you don't even need a battery

BUT you do need your battery when you towing

The Isolation switch ... turn it OFF when in storage to lessen chance of battery drainage
Leave it ON if you want the converter to keep battery charged while in storage

99% of time just leave it ON ...
you don't disconnect your car battery unless you doing maintenance....
same applies for RV... learn what battery you have and how to maintain it...

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Some never tow with master switch off as they charge their batteries from tow vehicle while driving.

Because Dealers in general are very unreliable in advising their customers on all trailer systems it's imperative that customers explore the systems themselves and demand answers from dealers.

The more one learns at the beginning the easier it is to address issues later.

Also, a key piece of equipment in every RV toolbox is a basic Multimeter capable of measuring Voltage, "Ohms" ( for continuity of fuses, switches, etc) and as a bonus having the ability to measure AC and DC current using a clamp-over-wire" feature. Relatively inexpensive and can provide answers as to why an electrical device is not working.

I for one do not tow with the master switch OFF. I expect the refrig to switch to LP as it is AC/LP, the monitors to continue working, and the tow vehicle to charge the RV battery. The break-a-way switch is always connected to the direct to the battery via a dedicated circuit breaker as it should be.

I just read a post about a person who has a very nice and very expensive motorhome. He encountered some electrical issues and sid; "I wish companies would furnish a wiring diagram." The thought that went through my mind (what's left of it) and being a EE with many years of true trouble shooting experience (not a designer or paper pusher type) I just wonder if the fellow had an acccurate schematic of the AC and DC systems, if he could really figure it out. I seriously doubt it.

Bob

 

[TitanMike]

I for one do not tow with the master switch OFF. I expect the refrig to switch to LP as it is AC/LP, the monitors to continue working, and the tow vehicle to charge the RV battery. The break-a-way switch is always connected to the direct to the battery via a dedicated circuit breaker as it should be.

I just read a post about a person who has a very nice and very expensive motorhome. He encountered some electrical issues and sid; "I wish companies would furnish a wiring diagram." The thought that went through my mind (what's left of it) and being a EE with many years of true trouble shooting experience (not a designer or paper pusher type) I just wonder if the fellow had an acccurate schematic of the AC and DC systems, if he could really figure it out. I seriously doubt it.

Bob

I actually don't want my e-brake switch live when stored. How many times have we heard from those who find dead batteries only to find somehow the "pin" has been pulled either by accident or mischief.

As for diagram of my trailer's electrical system, since all but a very few circuits like lighting and 12v power to refer, thermostat, Furnace, A/C, the rest has been completely re-done. No more hidden fuses, circuit breakers, etc. If I ever sell I can provide the new owner with a meaningfull schematic and diagram.

BTW, to encourage me to remember to turn the Master switch on before towing, I have to in order to operate the tongue jack, without which I can't hook up.

 

[bikendan]

The OP has a XLR Toyhauler.
OP, are you sure that your fridge is 3-way? I thought bigger Toyhaulers, like yours, have 2-way fridges.
3-way fridges are generally only found in popups, A-frames and truck campers.

 

[Aussieguy]

I actually don't want my e-brake switch live when stored. How many times have we heard from those who find dead batteries only to find somehow the "pin" has been pulled either by accident or mischief.

I moved my battery disconnect into pass through
anyone wanting to play with my original disconnect can do it as many times as they please...

if someone steals the pin for the e-brake on mine it is not hard to disconnect the wire... I know where it is hidden.

Only person who has pulled the pin (so far) is some strange Aussieperson armed with a weed wacker...
since then re-routed standard factory lanyard wire so it won't attract wacker string.

 

[Heavy Half Ton]

I always wanted to add a bright red LED to the brake circuit so I would know instantly if the pin came out. Never got around to it. (yet)

 

[bubbalowe]

The OP has a XLR Toyhauler.
OP, are you sure that your fridge is 3-way? I thought bigger Toyhaulers, like yours, have 2-way fridges.
3-way fridges are generally only found in popups, A-frames and truck campers.

I presumed it was 3 way because door label lists 12 volt DC. It's a Model DM2652RBX and nothing in manual suggests it's 3 way so you are correct. We normally plug into shore power for a day before leaving to cool down the fridge before filling and never caught anything thawing out after 2-3 hr trips. The few times we boondocked used propane for hot water and fridge so never caught on. I've owned this thing since 2020, might figure it out before we sell it. Thanks

 

[bikendan]

I presumed it was 3 way because door label lists 12 volt DC. It's a Model DM2652RBX and nothing in manual suggests it's 3 way so you are correct. We normally plug into shore power for a day before leaving to cool down the fridge before filling and never caught anything thawing out after 2-3 hr trips. The few times we boondocked used propane for hot water and fridge so never caught on. I've owned this thing since 2020, might figure it out before we sell it. Thanks

It's a 2-way fridge, not 3-way.

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdo.../dometic-americana-dm-2652-74980?v=9108500001

I had a 2652 fridge and it was definitely a 2-way fridge.

 

[01tundra]

I have our emergency brake controller wired directly to the battery with 10 AWG wire in loom and no fuse or breaker. The 10 AWG wire can handle more current than the brakes can pull and the contacts in the brake controller are the weak link. This has been an ongoing argument for years, to fuse or not fuse the brake controller, I opted to oversize the wire and not fuse it.

We store our trailer on our property, so no real concern on the brake plunger being pulled.

As far as a wire diagram, I just started slowly tracing wires as I was reworking the electrical system and developed my own power wire schematic. I used AutoCAD/Revit to draw mine, but one could easily use Bluebeam or Paint or a number of other programs to develop one. If I could read my own writing, I could've drawn it by hand even.

 

[jjscsix]

I have our emergency brake controller wired directly to the battery with 10 AWG wire in loom and no fuse or breaker. The 10 AWG wire can handle more current than the brakes can pull and the contacts in the brake controller are the weak link. This has been an ongoing argument for years, to fuse or not fuse the brake controller, I opted to oversize the wire and not fuse it.

We store our trailer on our property, so no real concern on the brake plunger being pulled.

As far as a wire diagram, I just started slowly tracing wires as I was reworking the electrical system and developed my own power wire schematic. I used AutoCAD/Revit to draw mine, but one could easily use Bluebeam or Paint or a number of other programs to develop one. If I could read my own writing, I could've drawn it by hand even.

When I started reading your post i scratched my head on why #10. I spent 12 years of my career working for manufactures of electrical wire and cable….the rest with electrical supply companies. But yes, your logic makes for a good idea. Nice post.

 

[Frierson]

Only other thing to check on camper battery

With batteries hooked up maintenance charging while the camper is stored, just need to check the battery acid level in the cells regularly so you do not have a dry cell(s). Our 2015 FR Cherokee to my knowledge does not have a breaker or fuse on the E-brake. There is a wire connection box under the front frame but I am not aware of a breaker or fuse assocaited with it.

 

[Beardface]

01 Tundra
Very nice wiring diagram, wish FR would send one with the unit,
One question, I notice your furion camera mount is always hot, mine is also, i thought most of these were wired to the parking lights and was surprised when i put the camera on the unit.
How do you shut off the camera when parked at the campsite, it is a pain to unplug the camera all the time when at the campsite or sored in my garage.
This seems like a bad setup, i will need to trace mine out and see if i can add a switch or relay to shut the camera off when not in use.
TIA

 

[01tundra]

01 Tundra
Very nice wiring diagram, wish FR would send one with the unit,
One question, I notice your furion camera mount is always hot, mine is also, i thought most of these were wired to the parking lights and was surprised when i put the camera on the unit.
How do you shut off the camera when parked at the campsite, it is a pain to unplug the camera all the time when at the campsite or sored in my garage.
This seems like a bad setup, i will need to trace mine out and see if i can add a switch or relay to shut the camera off when not in use.
TIA

I have our camera wired to the 12V+ wire from the tow vehicle 7-way plug. I also wired the TPMS signal booster to the same wire. This way the camera and booster automatically come on whenever the trailer is plugged into the truck.

 

[bubbalowe]

I have our emergency brake controller wired directly to the battery with 10 AWG wire in loom and no fuse or breaker. The 10 AWG wire can handle more current than the brakes can pull and the contacts in the brake controller are the weak link. This has been an ongoing argument for years, to fuse or not fuse the brake controller, I opted to oversize the wire and not fuse it.

We store our trailer on our property, so no real concern on the brake plunger being pulled.

As far as a wire diagram, I just started slowly tracing wires as I was reworking the electrical system and developed my own power wire schematic. I used AutoCAD/Revit to draw mine, but one could easily use Bluebeam or Paint or a number of other programs to develop one. If I could read my own writing, I could've drawn it by hand even.

Excellent schematic, manufacturers should provide these. Your reasoning for hardwiring pull apart brake is a good idea also, removes all operator error