Mini Lite 2511S Owners Thread

Has anyone else had issues with the wardrobe inside gaskets sliding up/down and falling off the metal channel it is supposed to grip?
my front one falls and folds in half every time we retract the wardrobe slide out.The rear inside gasket (closest to the bedroom door) comes loose where the upper slide out track crosses under it.
I have to reposition the rear one up or down and hold the top half of the front gasket in place while my wife opens the slide out because the upper slide out track knocks the gasket off the vertical metal channel that it is supposed to grip!
Is there a trick to getting that gasket to grip both side of its intended metal channel?
Very frustrating.
Any thoughts from other 2511S owners?

At first it was just the one right beside the bedroom door. We had to take in for some warranty work. They said they fixed it. 2nd or 3rd time out it came loose again. Fast forward 2 years and the other side is coming off. Did you ever figure it out?
 
Does your oven door stay closed while traveling? Do you store anything within oven while traveling?
Mini bungy cord up to range top, for us.
Someone once mentioned magnets?
All ideas welcome.

*knock on wood* In 4 years we have not had an issue with our oven coming open during transit and I keep pots and pans in mine.

Butner, North Carolina
TT-2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511s
TV-2017 Nissan Titan*4x4 Crew Cab
:camperfam:
"Remember, tomorrow is promised to no one"
Some people dream of meeting their heroes. I raised mine.
Mother of Fallen Officer
Brandon S. Coker, ☆S22
My son, My hero
E.O.W.04/25/2009
*Gone But Not Forgotten*
 
*knock on wood* In 4 years we have not had an issue with our oven coming open during transit and I keep pots and pans in mine.

I use double sided velcro and loop it, Post #774 in this thread.
Has worked for me and the insulation protects the glass.
 
Response #781

Both our inside gaskets fall from the top about 8-12 inches. Just below the upper track for the slide out. I notched the gasket were it passes over the slide rail and then fought the upper piece to slide in and over the mounting channel. Wardrobe is partially open when you do this. Patients & perseverance! Very poor design
 
Both our inside gaskets fall from the top about 8-12 inches. Just below the upper track for the slide out. I notched the gasket were it passes over the slide rail and then fought the upper piece to slide in and over the mounting channel. Wardrobe is partially open when you do this. Patients & perseverance! Very poor design
Ours was cut. It's like there is a tacky substance on the back edge of the slide the gasket sticks to when it's open and when you close it, it pulls it off. So far the left side it staying put. If I can just get the right side back in place. It's fun trying to get that side back in place trying to stand on the bed.
 
once you get it back on the channel use baby powder(no talc)on a sock.Wipe on the gasket to help keep it from sticking. Do that to all my inside and outside gaskets twice a year.
Mine were noticed for the bottom slide rail but not the top.
Yes the front gasket is a challenge
 
once you get it back on the channel use baby powder(no talc)on a sock.Wipe on the gasket to help keep it from sticking. Do that to all my inside and outside gaskets twice a year.
Mine were noticed for the bottom slide rail but not the top.
Yes the front gasket is a challenge
Awesome! Thank you for the tip
 
Frame rail slide motor access

I have a 2021 Rockwood 2511S. I sheared the manual slide crank rod cotter pin where it connects to the slide motor. It appears the motor is located under the trailer about 24 inches from the door. I need to reconnect the manual rod to the motor by reinstalling a cotter pin. I am not sure how to access the motor since the bottom of the RV is protected by a black plastic or fiber panel. It does not loop like I can drop this material. Any suggestions, maybe cut an access hole?

Thanks
Mark
 
That stinks

Sorry to read about your cotter pin. Did you hold the retract button to long?
I have done both methods below under my 2020 2511S.
Unscrewed the tek screws along the left side and along the horizontal support to allow me to lower the cover to install cat 6 cable and a 10/3 power cable. From front to back of TT. Takes patience and effort to pry it away from the edge and to get it back over the edge braces. Careful putting the horizontal screws (side to side) back in as that piece of angle iron is not very wide.
I have also cut a flap - three cuts of 8”-12” that you can pull down to access a section in the middle if you cannot reach it from the side. You of course can make the flap as big as needed but try to make only three cuts with a razor knife. You close this up with tape designed for the duroplast material. On Amazon, called Polyurethane Underbelly Repair Tape. Put mine on over 6,000 miles ago and still holding strong.
Those are the two ways I have accessed my underbelly without having to remove any drain pipes or ductwork.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.
 
TwoKozy:

Thanks for the great information. I will go the flap method. Since I have the manual slide crank shaft that came off, I know exactly how far in from the frame rail to cut in an access. I will order the recommended tape online and hopefully get time next week to make the repair.
I actually broke the shaft by turning the wrong way. I just bought this camper and was using for the first time. I check everything out before I took it on a three hour trip, and when I got to the campground neither slide would work. After a few hours and some online research, I found a wire on the small bedroom slide motor sync module had come off and I found a wire on the large slide control unit behind the fireplace had come off. However, prior to finding the wires and a couple hours into it, in a bit of frustration, I tried to crank out the large slide and turned the crank the wrong way. I did not think I was putting much force on it, but I was a bit desperate at the time.
I work in the rail signaling industry and all wire terminations have to be ring style so they will not come off with vibrations. Also, placing the main slide control unit so all the termination face down is also not a great design. Allows both vibration and gravity to increase chances of wires coming off. Anyway, all is good and headed to Topsail this weekend. Again, thanks for the info.
 
Fresh Water Tank Support

First picture is of what my tank looked like with water in it. Not sure if it is actually mine or a picture from the forum here.

Was not concerned about it falling out but just wearing through if traveling with water.

Thought about just getting straight pieces of 1/8" stock and slipping underneath but without an angle on them they are pretty flexible and would probably sag.

Went with some channel that I flattened out on the ends since the channel is thicker than the factory supports. Covered them with clear floor runner for tank protection and the tits on the back just happened to be correct for the slots in the channel. Stayed in place while the sealant cured.

Grouped three together and centered between the steel supports. Applied sealant to the edges and the ends just to keep in place. Held up for over three thousand miles this winter and traveling with almost always 10+ gallons of water. I know I went a couple hundred miles with 30 gallons of water.

Just filled it up with the 50 gallons and minimal sagging in the middle any more. Not worried about the edges of the factory supports gouging out the tanks anymore if traveling with water.

Worked out good since the tank is higher than the bottom of the frame and can not use a unistrut across the width.

Links for the channel and runner I used.

https://www.menards.com/main/storage-organization/shelves-shelving-units/shelf-brackets-accessories/john-sterling-trade-single-track-standard/0095-36zc/p-1444436962804-c-12645.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/flooring-rugs/area-rugs-mats-runners/floor-runners-accessories/es-robbins-reg-ribbed-vinyl-runner/184013/p-1444430066837-c-12565.htm?exp=false

FW Tank Sag 2.jpg

Water Tank Brackets (1).jpg

Water Tank Brackets (2).jpg

Water Tank Brackets (3).jpg

Water Tank Sag After Install (5).jpg
 
Need replacement water filter container

Howdy folks!

I apologize if this is in the wrong part of the forum.

I have a 2018 Rockwood Mini Lite 2506s. The gasket around the upper part of the water filter container (the clear plastic “bottle” that holds the filter element and screws into the plastic connection) is no longer sealing well and drips a little.

Does anyone know where to get a replacement?

Thank you!

Happy Trails!

Jeff
 
Door Slides Fix

Well, I had problems with the bathroom door slide. I could get it reconnected to the slide, but what I learned was that I could not get the latch to close fully, so it kept coming unattached.

I do use the pool noodles all the time. I've also learned to shore them up a bit so they are tighter.

Regarding the sliding door, Rockwood nailed the wood panel that covers the slide rail, etc. I decided NOT to pull that entire thing out. It is caulked and nailed in .. a stupid and cheap move by the Rockwood team.

So I ended up finding a location where I could get to both slide hooks, and I cut a 2" x 3" piece out. Unfortunately, that is not real wood, but particle board and doesn't cut too cleanly.

So I can now get to the slide assembly. It took me 15 seconds to properly secure/lock the slide ball. I can get to both slide lock assemblies.

Unfortunately, I didn't get a clean cut. So for now, I've put the piece I cut out back in, and covered it with a light brown duct tape. In the short term, I'll mount a picture or something over it. Sometime next summer I'll try cutting a new piece. I still may just pull the entire board off and redo it with a real piece of wood in a way that I can remove it.

Not the best approach, BUT it worked. The slide ball is securely locked, and my wife did not freak out about the cut. We'll cover it and forget about it for now.
 
Medicine cabinet

Has anyone taken the medicine cabinet off the wall?
We were at an rv show this weekend and saw a lot of other brands are putting a TALL mirror behind the sink. Husband loves the TALL mirrors because he’s 6’4” and tired of having to bend down to shave (nope I don’t want him to grow a beard).
Thinking we could put the medicine cabinet on the linen closet wall as no wiring there.
 
2511s Shakies

I have a 2022 2511s Minilite. We really like the trailer. However, it does shake a bit when people walk around inside. I have tried tire chocks, but they didn't work. I have also tried the small under-trailer cheap stabilizers (2 of them) but they didn't work.

I'm looking at the Valterra Stabilizers - one on each end. And use the tire chocks.

Does anyone else solve the trailer-shaking problem?

THanks in advance.
 
The only RV I've ever had that did not move around at all was our 36,000 lb dry weight Monaco with a $10k ActiveAir suspension upgrade. All TTs are going to move about a bit, even with stabilizers down.
 
I have a Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S. That said I just wanted to voice how Good Sam failed with their Roadside Assistance. We had a tire blowout 9 miles outside Raton, NM and gave GS a call. They said they would send help. After waiting an hour with no call back we gave them a call and we were told they were still trying to find someone. We looked up a service in Raton and called a repair shop ourselves. After 3 hours we made it to the RV park. On our final call to GS the agent said there was no incident reported. Our money is wasted on GS Roadside Assistance.
 
I have a 2022 2511s Minilite. We really like the trailer. However, it does shake a bit when people walk around inside. I have tried tire chocks, but they didn't work. I have also tried the small under-trailer cheap stabilizers (2 of them) but they didn't work.

I'm looking at the Valterra Stabilizers - one on each end. And use the tire chocks.

Do you have the scissor jacks or Power Stabilizers?

The Power Stabilizers were an option which mine came with and absolutely no movement unless a storm is coming through and then even minimal.

Most I get is a creak once in a while when one side settles a bit after setting up initially.

No chocks or anything on/between my wheels unless I am having to level and then one side is on curved levelers.
 
Hello

My wife and I are making the transition from decades of tent camping to a travel trailer. I've been doing a lot of web surfing and research and keep coming back to the 2511S.

My wife typically goes to bed much earlier than me, and I'm a night owl. So the private bedroom and separated bath really meet our need.

The shorter length appears to be easier to maneuver on forest roads.

I'm 6' 3" and need a full 80" mattress. Looking at the drawings of the 2511S, there's 17" between the mattress and wall, so extending the mattress 6" looks fairly simple.

I've been searching here without luck. I'm sure someone else has already made this modification. I'd love to see photos oof any modification to a true 60 x 80 Queen mattress.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
My husband is 6’4” so what we did was buy a queen size mattress cover full zipper type and a queen size topper. Had an old body pillow that we put at the head of the bed then the mattress topper then zipped the mattress cover over everything. Have used this set up for 2 years and it works great. The other thing we do is since it has storage under the bed use that for dirty clothes. We were trying to figure it out how to put in a taller medicine cabinet so he didn’t have to bend down to shave problem solved he grew a beard!
 

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