New owner needs help operating and repairing their 2007 Flagstaff Classic Super Lite

[Bangs]

Hey everyone, thank you all for the information as usual. I was able to work on it some more this weekend. The main focus was the smaller slide out section that had water damage on the floor and sides. I decided to take the entire section out to make it easier to work on the section floor and repair the frame of the camper.

Rebuilding the floor should be that big of an issue but I'm wondering the best way to tackle repairing the frame or hole of the slide out section. Seems like I'll have to cut out and replace a bunch but Not sure the easiest rout for the side closets to the back corner of the trailer. The other side seems find but the bottom and right side (if viewed from inside) needs replaced.

 

[ChrisParise]

Great that you've got the forklift to take out the slideout room.

Sounds like you are managing replacing the floor ok, correct?

You know, I suspect there may be a leak from that rear window that has damaged the right side corner wall. Have you removed the cabinet drawers and looked? Another area water can get to that area is from a sidewall leak. Does you unit have rain gutters? Gutters are screwed into the sidewall with screws every 6" or so and they have a tendency to back out over time and allow water in. Gutter rails are covered by insert trim and that hides the screws. Out of sight out of mind. If the window and gutter rails are not leaking look at the slideout opening for any signs of water intrusion. Earlier you said the roof was leak free but the 3 areas I just touched on are wall leaks.

Important thing is to make sure the area is leak proof.

If and when the wall material exposed in the picture is dry, then my suggestion is to rebond the luan which I can see to the wall structure by injecting a resin/hardener mix into the wall cavity and firmly clamping it with braces on the inside and outside.

You can find resins by searching for delamination repair products. I've used Composet llc products to repair delaminated walls and they work well to bond the inside of the wall together.

I would explore injecting resin first before trying to rebuild the wall by demolition and reconstruction.

Fixing delaminated walls especially when you can access the inside like you are showing is not that difficult. Alot easier than rebuilding.

Pm me if you'd like to talk sometime

Chris

 

[rracer5]

Yes. Floor damage may have from a leaking water heater but, looking at the condition of the exterior walls, there has also been some leakage into the walls causing delamination & exacerbating the floor damage. And due to the age of the rig, a good resealing job from the top down needs to be done also.

 

[rracer5]

Hey everyone, thank you all for the information as usual. I was able to work on it some more this weekend. The main focus was the smaller slide out section that had water damage on the floor and sides. I decided to take the entire section out to make it easier to work on the section floor and repair the frame of the camper.

Rebuilding the floor should be that big of an issue but I'm wondering the best way to tackle repairing the frame or hole of the slide out section. Seems like I'll have to cut out and replace a bunch but Not sure the easiest rout for the side closets to the back corner of the trailer. The other side seems find but the bottom and right side (if viewed from inside) needs replaced.

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Well, I'm glad to see that you have all the proper equipment to tackle the job at hand (sawhorses, tarps, forklift & straps etc). Just wondering when the turquois big wheel will come into play during the refurbishing? Such an important looking piece of equipment must have a special purpose...

 

[Chuck_S]

Turquoise big wheel is obviously the foreman's vehicle. I'm sure this job is being closely supervised.

Heck of a project! Well beyond my hand tools or skills.

Looking forward to the success of this project!

 

[rracer5]

Turquoise big wheel is obviously the foreman's vehicle. I'm sure this job is being closely supervised.

Heck of a project! Well beyond my hand tools or skills.

Looking forward to the success of this project!

 

[Bangs]

Thank you as usual for all the information a feedback. I definitely plan to reseal everything on the outside soon. I like the idea of that rope cutting bit for a soldering iron. I haven't made it a priority as it seems like someone has attempted to do that a few years ago and there aren't any active leaks. They didn't do all that great of a job though.

Anyway, here with another weekend update.

I have been pulling out all of the rotted boards where the previous water damage was. In doing so, I noticed part of the ceiling looked slightly different and seemed lower than the rest. Turns out it was a panel that they had cut as a patch job. This revealed what I suspect was the original source of the leak that damaged everything on that slide out floor and corner wall. It's been raining here off and on and I haven't seen it leak so they must have patched it up from outside but I figure I need to do more to ensure a proper fix. Any ideas or suggestions would be great.

 

[ChrisParise]

Good catch!

As far as the outside repair where the ceiling leak was, a proper fix depends on some factors.

It may have already been permanently fixed. But how does a person know? No active leaking seems to be the case, good so that could wait - but if the old patch was poorly done it could start leaking again and meanwhile ruin your inside work before you can get to the patch. In my view, a good patch is lifetime but needs regular roof inspections which is standard.

The work you've done is all goodness.

My suggestion is to inspect the area you suspect was patched. Broaden your inspection to the entire roof.

The patch area should have been done with products that are compatible with your roof membrane. Look for self leveling caulk or eternabond or a combination of both. Anything else is suspect

 

[Bangs]

Some more updates from yesterday evening. I continued to cut out all of the badly rotten and black molded sections until I hit a patch that seems fine. I've also been using the multi-tool for this and scrapping the back side of the outside fiberglass (the frame area of the slide out section) to prep it for new material / bonding. Seems like previous leak took out a lot of the back corner and back of the trailer. Also part of the shower that I'll have to get to.

 

[ChrisParise]

Good pictures showing your progress.
Thanks
Chris

 

[Bangs]

Put in a little more time after work. Cabinets had to come down and found that the previous leak had really done a number on this back wall and corner. Looks like it's all gotta go. I stopped for the night since we're going to be getting some rain/snow. That's why I have the board propping things up, so nothing can collect while there is little support.

I'm worried about the best way to handle the rear window since all of the wall around it is soft black sponge rot that needs to go. And input would be appreciated.

Thanks to ChrisParise for the suggestion of Composet Products LLC. I've been looking into them and plan to use a number of their solutions. They're also a good source of repair knowledge.

 

[ChrisParise]

Having worked with Composet before on my delamination project, the purchase of one of their kits buys consulting and support through the project, including weekend support if I needed it (didnt need to call).

So, my suggestion would be to talk to them about that rear window worry.

Having taken out 2 of my clamp ring windows to fix my walls (I used the window openings and clamps to clamp boards inside and out for the resin to rebond the wall material), I found the window openings were framed in metal with a plastic coating over them. I've got pictures of the opened windows and send them if I can find. So, worse case scenario you might be able to glue new foam insulation to the wall and cut new rough openings then reuse the wall window frame and reinstall the window. Something like that. As you know by now, this is all basic carpentry stuff but it helps to be skilled and have the tools like you do!

But I'd ask the owner at Composet because he's seen it all imho.

You'll need a helper.to hold and take the window from the outside when all the screws are out. I am pretty sure its going to need to come out unless the inside wall right around it can be saved.

Good idea on the ceiling brace.
Was there a ceiling joist up there at one time? I can't tell from the pictures.

Edit. I looked for my window pictures and I think they're on my laptop not my phone gallery. I'll look later and send if I can find

Chris

 

[ChrisParise]

Here's a link to my Class C delamination project on Forest River Forums.

Some of the techniques, tools, and approach may help you. Big difference between our projects is I didn't need to tear out walls.

2006 Sunseeker 2860DS Delamination Repair

Starting project to repair as best as possible delamination on the Sunseeker Immediate scope is passenger side. Depending how it goes I may address a similar drivers side delamination yet this fall I've ordered closed and open wall kits from Composet and had my one on one project analysis...

www.forestriverforums.com

 

[Bangs]

I've been doing some homework on resealing the roof and using EternaBond seems like a nice option. Can anyway speak to this stuff and possible pros/cons?

 

[ChrisParise]

Eternabond is permanent if done right. When I bought my Class C new as a rental. Not that I would have known at the time but there was about 5' of eternabond in one segmented strip on the edge of the roof. Much later I noticed it and surmised a renter had scraped the roof on a branch.

Still have the rv today. Eternabond in place.

Because my epdm roof is a 2006, I applied Hengs Rubber Roof Coating to it last fall. Right over all the self leveling caulk which was in good shape no pits or cracks and the epdm membrane.

Prior to that, I touched up some pits and cracks with Dicor self leveling caulk. Easy to do.

Some have used eternabond extensively on all roof seams.

 

[rollscanardly]

I've been doing some homework on resealing the roof and using EternaBond seems like a nice option. Can anyway speak to this stuff and possible pros/cons?

I also used Eternabond on all roof seams and penetrations, except for the stink pipes and the TV antennal.

This included removing all the perimeter trim, and as much of the old sealant as possible...( used soldering gun, rope cutter..). As you can see..my roof was so "worn, that all the white layer of the EPDM was gone.

The Eternabond is well adhered, I used a heat gun and the 2 lb. roller..

After all the seam work was done, I used Dicor Rubber roof coating (3 coats) following the directions to the letter.

I also ran a bead of sealant around the neck/flange of the vents where it meets the Eternabond..

It's a lot of work, but I'm glad that I did it.

That being said, I haven't washed the roof since then, so It's pretty grimy, but upon an inspection this past fall, I noticed that the Dicor Roof Coating had "loosened" from the Eternabond. I can basically rub it off with my thumb...(again...excuse the filthy roof..)...

I don't know what could be done to remedy this. Perhaps scuff up the Eternabond with a Scotchbrite pad, apply some adhesion promoter? If I ever decide to recoat the roof, I will try that.

We don't go camping anymore, so I don't have a lot of ambition. Just enough to prevent leaking.
We're building an off-grid getaway In New Hampshire, so the camper lives there for us to stay in during the project.

Rich

 

[ChrisParise]

I also used Eternabond on all roof seams and penetrations, except for the stink pipes and the TV antennal.

View attachment 740718

This included removing all the perimeter trim, and as much of the old sealant as possible...( used soldering gun, rope cutter..). As you can see..my roof was so "worn, that all the white layer of the EPDM was gone.

View attachment 740725


The Eternabond is well adhered, I used a heat gun and the 2 lb. roller..
View attachment 740722


After all the seam work was done, I used Dicor Rubber roof coating (3 coats) following the directions to the letter.
View attachment 740726

I also ran a bead of sealant around the neck/flange of the vents where it meets the Eternabond..
View attachment 740723
It's a lot of work, but I'm glad that I did it.

That being said, I haven't washed the roof since then, so It's pretty grimy, but upon an inspection this past fall, I noticed that the Dicor Roof Coating had "loosened" from the Eternabond. I can basically rub it off with my thumb...(again...excuse the filthy roof..)...
View attachment 740727

View attachment 740728

I don't know what could be done to remedy this. Perhaps scuff up the Eternabond with a Scotchbrite pad, apply some adhesion promoter? If I ever decide to recoat the roof, I will try that.

We don't go camping anymore, so I don't have a lot of ambition. Just enough to prevent leaking.
We're building an off-grid getaway In New Hampshire, so the camper lives there for us to stay in during the project.

Rich

Nice job.

I used Hengs Rubber Roof Coating on my 2006 Class C last fall. My epdm roof was in good shape but I could see some suspicious signs of aging - fast, between spring and late summer I saw a difference.

Here's my project

Hengs Rubber Roof Coat project

Hi all, I posted this in iRv2 and thought I'd do so here. Owning a 2006 Sunseeker 2860DS since new I've been keeping an eye on my epdm roof for signs of aging while researching my best options for extending its life when the time came. This spring it looked ok after cleaning with Dicor...

www.forestriverforums.com

 

[Larry-NC]

Great that you've got the forklift to take out the slideout room.

Yeah, I'm jealous. Not everyone has one of those at his fingertips.

Does you unit have rain gutters? Gutters are screwed into the sidewall with screws every 6" or so and they have a tendency to back out over time and allow water in.
Important thing is to make sure the area is leak proof.

The other main cause, often ignored, is those awful awning brackets that bridge the rain gutters. There's no way to reliably seal the lag bolts that hold the brackets on. Both of our trailers have had severe water incursion in the area of the lag screws. There's no easy east way to seal that spot, especially when leaves clog the gutter inside the
bracket. The industry should have stopped using them years ago but, hey, the failure sells new trailers.

EDIT: Just noticed (Post #1) that there doesn't seem to have been an awning on that side of the trailer. Surprising since the door is on that side.

 

[ChrisParise]

Yeah, I'm jealous. Not everyone has one of those at his fingertips.

The other main cause, often ignored, is those awful awning brackets that bridge the rain gutters. There's no way to reliably seal the lag bolts that hold the brackets on. Both of our trailers have had severe water incursion in the area of the lag screws. There's no easy east way to seal that spot, especially when leaves clog the gutter inside the
bracket. The industry should have stopped using them years ago but, hey, the failure sells new trailers.

EDIT: Just noticed (Post #1) that there doesn't seem to have been an awning on that side of the trailer. Surprising since the door is on that side.

Yes those awning brackets are a source of leaks. When.i replaced my awning fabric in 2016 I removed those lag screws and mine were clean.like new after 10 years. When I reinstalled the brackets I put down eternabond where the brackets were and I coated the threads with rv proflex before installing.

 

[D W]

Hmmm, just thumbing through the comments and pictures in this thread, as a 2007 model, "repair" isn't the correct term. This rig needs a "rebuild"! Age and neglect has taken its toll. The sad thing is that it will never be worth what you have to put into it.