New owner with lots of questions

[2004flagstaff625d]

You must turn on the propane tanks, by opening the valves. (The regulator automatically switches to the tank its handle point at but that's a question for another day.)

Before attempting to run the furnace OR the water heater, it's always a good idea to light the range burners and let them burn until they burn steadily. Somehow air seems to get into the system when everything is off, and it's better to purge the air through the range burners than trying to light the water heater or furnace which you can't see.

To expand on this, there are check valves (one-way valves) at the water pump and at the city water inlet. When you provide pressure from one input, the other one automatically shuts off.

Never run the water pump and city water at the same time. Both valves start to open and city water overpowers the pump. This can result in filling and overflowing your fresh water tank.

The furnace generally works by setting the thermostat to a temperature higher than ambient and setting the Cool-Off-Heat switch to heat. If you have an electronic thermostat, it will be about the same.

There are two basic water heater types: Tank and Tankless. I'll guess you have a tank type. Among the tank types, some use propane, some use electricity, and some use either or both. Tell us what make and model you have for more info. NEVER ATTEMPT TO HEAT THE WATER HEATER WITHOUT ASSURING THERE IS WATER IN THE TANK. MOST PEOPLE DRAIN THE WATER HEATER OVER THE WINTER TO PREVENT FREEZING. ATTEMPTING TO DO SO, ELECTRIC OR GAS, WILL CAUSE DAMAGE.

You are correct that it is a tank water heater. It is a suburban brand heater. Currently the entire water system is empty. I need to put a new anode rod in the water heater and seal it up. It looks like the old rod has been uninstalled for the last few years (I may have some rust issues in there).

The furnace is also a suburban brand. I can not seem to find a thermostat anywhere in the camper but will look more today.

In happier news, I tore the burner off the fridge and blew it out. Now the fridge works on propane power. I also found where I was missing a fuse for the battery, so now the 12v system works as it should. I also figured out how the cassette toilet works and verified the water pump in there works correctly.

Plans for today are

1. seal water heater
2. test water system with city water
3. sanitize water system tank.

 

[pgandw]

Since this is a 2004 model, I will say my 2004 Rockwood popup camper's Dometic refrigerator was completely manual. Since the OP mentions there's a piezo ignitor, that sounds very much like the one I had. There were two switches for 120 volts or 12 volts, a thermostat, a control knob for the gas, and the ignitor button. I had to turn on whatever source was appropriate, it had no way of switching sources or lighting itself like later ones. The thermostat only applied to 120 volt operation.

To light it on gas, I had to turn the knob to high, push the knob in, and keep hitting the ignitor button periodically for close to a minute to purge all the air out and actually have it light. There was a small shutter at the base of the chimney so you could see a small flame once it lit (very hard to see in daylight), but you had to keep holding the control knob in for 10 seconds or so after it lit for the thermocouple to keep the valve open. The control knob only controlled the flame, the instructions were you might need it on high if it's a hot day, but if it's cool or stuff in the refrigerator was starting to freeze, then you had to turn the control knob down to medium or low.

A tip, my refrigerator didn't work very well until I added a 12 volt computer fan inside the compartment to help move the hot air out through the upper vent. I think there are RV refrigerator fans that do this that actually have a thermostat built in to them so they turn on if the compartment is getting too warm. I just added a switch to turn it on or off manually and wired it to the 12 volt supply for the refrigerator.

Oh, and I could not tow my camper while the refrigerator was running on gas; the wind would blow through the screen and blow out the burner. I would just run it off 12 volts while towing.

Totally agree with dsherman. You likely have the manual fridge used in pop-ups and A-frames (still used in the smaller models).

Getting it started on gas was a chore at altitude (lived in Colorado at the time) until I learned on these forums:
- you have to keep the gas valve pushed in while pushing the igniter button. I found I had to hold it in for about 30 seconds after getting the gas lit.
- the igniter button gives you a spark per push of the igniter button
- 2 repeated pushes in quick succession of the igniter button works a lot better than 1 push and waiting to see what happened
- mode switches at top have to be set correctly, only 1 mode at a time

Like dsherman, I found the propane flame would blow out at highway speeds, so would have to use DC mode while towing.

The fan to exhaust the hot air out of the fridge compartment is critical to fridge performance in warm weather. I mounted a 12V computer case fan directly on the exhaust (upper) grill. Put a switch to manually turn on/off. Worked like a champ.

I used a wireless outdoor thermometer ($11 at Walmart) to monitor inside fridge temp. The sense head went inside the fridge, the readout could be inside the camper or the tow vehicle.

Fred W
prev 2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
now 2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame

 

[2004flagstaff625d]

Totally agree with dsherman. You likely have the manual fridge used in pop-ups and A-frames (still used in the smaller models).

Getting it started on gas was a chore at altitude (lived in Colorado at the time) until I learned on these forums:
- you have to keep the gas valve pushed in while pushing the igniter button. I found I had to hold it in for about 30 seconds after getting the gas lit.
- the igniter button gives you a spark per push of the igniter button
- 2 repeated pushes in quick succession of the igniter button works a lot better than 1 push and waiting to see what happened
- mode switches at top have to be set correctly, only 1 mode at a time

Like dsherman, I found the propane flame would blow out at highway speeds, so would have to use DC mode while towing.

The fan to exhaust the hot air out of the fridge compartment is critical to fridge performance in warm weather. I mounted a 12V computer case fan directly on the exhaust (upper) grill. Put a switch to manually turn on/off. Worked like a champ.

I used a wireless outdoor thermometer ($11 at Walmart) to monitor inside fridge temp. The sense head went inside the fridge, the readout could be inside the camper or the tow vehicle.

Fred W
prev 2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
now 2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame

The fridge will now turn on and run. Thanks for the tip about the fan. I'll look into adding one

 

[Larry-NC]

Good progress

You are correct that it is a tank water heater. It is a suburban brand heater. Currently the entire water system is empty. I need to put a new anode rod in the water heater and seal it up. It looks like the old rod has been uninstalled for the last few years (I may have some rust issues in there).

The furnace is also a suburban brand. I can not seem to find a thermostat anywhere in the camper but will look more today.

In happier news, I tore the burner off the fridge and blew it out. Now the fridge works on propane power. I also found where I was missing a fuse for the battery, so now the 12v system works as it should. I also figured out how the cassette toilet works and verified the water pump in there works correctly.

Plans for today are

1. seal water heater
2. test water system with city water
3. sanitize water system tank.

Good progress. Don't worry about a little rust on the cast iron fitting for the anode rod. They all do that. You can clean it with a toothbrush, bottle brush, or cylindrical wire brush if you insist. It's sufficient to wrap some Teflon tape around the threaded portion of the anode rod before installing it, to get a leakfree seal.

• Wrap the tape in the direction that doesn't unwind when you screw in the rod.
• The threads on the rod and corresponding threads on the cast iron tank fitting are tapered (cone-shaped: the cast iron fitting is wider at the open end, and the rod threads are narrower at the end that touches first. This means it will NOT go all the way in--don't try. Just tighten it tight and don't overdo it.

 

[2004flagstaff625d]

Good progress. Don't worry about a little rust on the cast iron fitting for the anode rod. They all do that. You can clean it with a toothbrush, bottle brush, or cylindrical wire brush if you insist. It's sufficient to wrap some Teflon tape around the threaded portion of the anode rod before installing it, to get a leakfree seal.

• Wrap the tape in the direction that doesn't unwind when you screw in the rod.
• The threads on the rod and corresponding threads on the cast iron tank fitting are tapered (cone-shaped: the cast iron fitting is wider at the open end, and the rod threads are narrower at the end that touches first. This means it will NOT go all the way in--don't try. Just tighten it tight and don't overdo it.

Thanks for the tip! I was gonna use "the green stuff" thread sealer but that's probably overkill

 

[wnew813]

Hello all! I am new here and completely new to campers in general.

I just purchased a 2044 flagstaff 625-d camper. I have a lot of questions about it and your help would be greatly appreciated.

1. I have checked that the lights, A/C, and fan do work on 110v power. I have also confirmed that the battery is charged up. All fuses in the camper are good. The lights and fan will not turn on when disconnected from 110v. Is there a switch somewhere that I need to use to run off the battery?

2. The fridge is supposed to work on 110v or 12v or propane. How can I tell if the propane is running? I have found the switched for the power options. I can see the pizio spark when I click it. Should I be able to see a pilot light?

3. The water pump should work on 12v or 110v I assume. When I hook directly into a hose, is there a switch or valve I need to open/close to get off the water tank?

4. How does the heater on these things work?

Sorry, I know it is a lot to ask.

On the gas, I always turn on the burners to make sure they all light before anything else needs gas to work. Usually there is a switch for the fridge to put it on automatic, when it disconnects from 110v it switches to gas.

If you're talking about the furnace, we have to take it off auto and put it on low fan.
The water pump is for dry docking, you don't use it if a hose is connected. If you dry dock you need to fill the tank with water first.
It should switch over to battery when disconnected from power check your battery leads there might be a inline fuse that is blown

 

[bikendan]

On the gas, I always turn on the burners to make sure they all light before anything else needs gas to work. Usually there is a switch for the fridge to put it on automatic, when it disconnects from 110v it switches to gas.

If you're talking about the furnace, we have to take it off auto and put it on low fan.
The water pump is for dry docking, you don't use it if a hose is connected. If you dry dock you need to fill the tank with water first.
It should switch over to battery when disconnected from power check your battery leads there might be a inline fuse that is blown

The OP has a 2004 popup.
It has a 3-way fridge that has a manual switch outside that you set to 12v DC, 110v AC or propane. So no auto switch.
There is no thermostat that has AUTO or low settings.
Its thermostat is an old school thermostat that is only for the furnace. It has a tab at the bottom that you slide over to the ballpark temperature you want for the furnace.

 

[jlankford]

The fridge will now turn on and run. Thanks for the tip about the fan. I'll look into adding one

Since this is new to you, be aware that this fridge needs to be near perfectly level to be operated. Running it out of level can permanently damage the refrigerant system.

Also, if it appears to be running but will never get cool enough on propane, it's likely the flame orifice is clogged. At 20 years old, I'd expect it is. It's a pretty simple fix to remove the orifice and clean it out. After cleaning you'll see the flame burning larger, and fridge cooling can be much improved.

 

[Chuck_S]

Since this is new to you, be aware that this fridge needs to be near perfectly level to be operated.

Don't obsess over this is. Good enough is the enemy of perfect. If the camper is level enough to sleep in -- and you know when that is -- the refrigerator is level enough to work fine.

-- Chuck

 

[ZingerDave]

Campers usually have a power supply that converts 110 to 12vdc and that runs the lights, refrigerator, water pump, etc. you should have gotten manuals for your camper with detailed info on each unit. If you did not, Google the model of each device and download the manual.
Also, find a reputable RV dealership and ask for some help
It could save you a lot of time and frustration.

 

[pgandw]

Hello all! I am new here and completely new to campers in general.

I just purchased a 2044 flagstaff 625-d camper. I have a lot of questions about it and your help would be greatly appreciated.

1. I have checked that the lights, A/C, and fan do work on 110v power. I have also confirmed that the battery is charged up. All fuses in the camper are good. The lights and fan will not turn on when disconnected from 110v. Is there a switch somewhere that I need to use to run off the battery?

3. The water pump should work on 12v or 110v I assume. When I hook directly into a hose, is there a switch or valve I need to open/close to get off the water tank?

4. How does the heater on these things work?

Sorry, I know it is a lot to ask.

#1 is interesting. A/C is powered by 120V AC, so will not work without being plugged in to "shore power".

Ceiling lights and fan run off 12V DC, but have a safety switch usually mounted on or under the galley cabinet that folds down for trailering. When cabinet is in trailering position, switch cuts power to the ceiling lights and fan. Switch can get out of alignment, and cut power all the time.

Is the galley set up when you are trying lights and fan on 12V DC? If safety switch is working, battery is disconnected or won't hold enough charge to operate lights/fan.

You have a converter in your electrical panel that powers all 12V items AND charges your battery when plugged into shore power. When you plug in, you should read 13.6+V at the battery (battery is charging). When not plugged in, a full battery will read 12.6V (after standing an hour or 2). A 50% discharged battery will read about 12.1V. Turning on ceiling fan and lights should not decrease battery voltage more than 0.2V. If more than 0.2V, your battery is shot.

I suspect your battery is done for, especially if it's more than 5 years old. Take it out and have it load tested at a car parts place if you have any doubts.

Pop-ups do not come standard with a battery cut-off switch. Which means items like the CO/propane detector, stereo, and other hidden draw items will suck your battery down in couple of weeks unplugged. You either have to disconnect your battery for storage, or install a battery disconnect switch to do this electrically. A picture of my battery disconnect switch on my A-frame below. There are simpler/cheaper cut-off switches that attach directly to the battery post.

#2: The water pump (12V so it can run off battery) has a one way valve on the output to prevent city water from reverse flow through the pump and into the water tank. Sometimes these fail, causing your water tank to overflow.

#4: There is a switch near the heater to turn it on. From there, the thermostat actually turns the heater on and off. Pretty much fully automatic. Mechanical thermostats (where you move the lever) have a "wide band" of turning on/off. The electronic thermostats, which started being installed in 2014 or so, hold temp to about 2 deg swing. Heater has a 12V fan and ignition system.

Fred W
prev 2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
now 2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2022 Hyundai Palisade