New Suburban Hot Water Tank Looks Used

[JZ2608BS]

I was about to dewinterize my new Rockwood 2608BS and when I pulled the anode from the hot water tank, I noticed a bunch of rust and the anode was already corroded, even thought the trailer has not been used yet. This is the way it came from the dealer.

In all my years of RV's I have never had a hot water tank that has an anode. They have always been aluminum and I already don't like this.

Something does not look right here. Is this normal?

 

[escape pod 47]

It's obviously had water in it. Probably to test it. That anode looks virtually new to me. I think your good to go.

 

[escape pod 47]

Just wire brush the threads clean and make sure you put a few wraps of Teflon tape on it before you reinstall.

 

[JimM2109S]

It's obviously had water in it. Probably to test it. That anode looks virtually new to me. I think your good to go.

Totally agree.

 

[JZ2608BS]

OK and thanks everyone. I will proceed.

 

[wmtire]

OK and thanks everyone. I will proceed.

Since this is your first Suburban, these video guides provided by Airxcel that we keep in the FAQ section may help in the future:

Suburban Water Heater Video Guides

Keith Walker & Jennifer Terry with Airxcel, Inc – Suburban Division have provided the FRF membership with a great series of videos done directly by Suburban regarding their water heaters. These videos cover many subjects, including the often misunderstood bypass system. The following should...

www.forestriverforums.com

 

[JZ2608BS]

OMG! These steel tanks are a PITA to maintain. Replacement anode rods, flushing the tank to remove deposits, vacuuming the tanks to remove large deposits, using vinegar to dilute the really big deposits and taping off the outside of the trailer to protect it from the vinegar flush.

I've never done any of this nonsense with my previous trailers, in 50 years. Apparently aluminum tanks are the way to go.

 

[GolfingDave]

OMG! These steel tanks are a PITA to maintain.

Here is a good way to flush it when/if the time comes.
Water Heater Flush

 

[Oaklevel]

OMG! These steel tanks are a PITA to maintain. Replacement anode rods, flushing the tank to remove deposits, vacuuming the tanks to remove large deposits, using vinegar to dilute the really big deposits and taping off the outside of the trailer to protect it from the vinegar flush.

I've never done any of this nonsense with my previous trailers, in 50 years. Apparently aluminum tanks are the way to go.

Probably the wrong way but I have had steel tank suburban water heaters in our campers for 50 year (from our 1973 Terry on) and only flushed them once a year while winterizing, replaced the anode rode about every 4 years................................. never had a leak or replaced a water heater to date . for that matterer our home tanks are have been steel tanks with anode rods as well.

 

[KyDan]

My previous rig had a steel tank and my issue with it was the threads rusting.
My routine was to remove the anode at my last campsite and drive home with it
removed. That would slosh out nearly all the water.
If it was end of season I did the same but when I got home I put Oatey great white
pipe dope with teflon on the anode threads and re-installed it.
I also put a little of the Oatey on the tank threads before installing the anode.
Leaving it out over winter seemed to get much more rust on the threads in the tank.

 

[GolfingDave]

I think it all depends on your location. As I travel to the south and east the last three winters my ice cubes get clearer.
My summer area is Red by this map and I need to use my water softener.
Map of water hardness in the United States

Edit: By the way, my anode will maybe last about two summers. I just clean, flush and replace about mid summer now.

 

[Willhound]

OMG! These steel tanks are a PITA to maintain. Replacement anode rods, flushing the tank to remove deposits, vacuuming the tanks to remove large deposits, using vinegar to dilute the really big deposits and taping off the outside of the trailer to protect it from the vinegar flush.

I've never done any of this nonsense with my previous trailers, in 50 years. Apparently aluminum tanks are the way to go.

That would be taking it to the end degree and not all steps are necessary. Good idea to flush your tank at least once a year anyway, and if you do it a couple times of year the deposits don't add up to much. All it needs is a good blast of water from a hose. There are wands you can buy or build that will allow you to get right into the corners of the tank if you wish. Anodes will last anywhere from 1 to 4 years, perhaps more and keep in mind there are different anode materials available depending on water conditions. We have very hard water and a lot of mineralization at our park so the standard zinc or magnesium anodes were breaking down in no time. Switched last year to aluminum and at end of season it still looked new. Also purported to help cut the sulfur smell from zinc reacting with the minerals in the water.

 

[5picker]

Just like black tank flushing, water heater flushing has seemed to take on a persona of its own as of recent.
Once our water system is flushed, sanitized and pressurized, we never remove the water heater's drain/anode until time to winterize. (and ONLY once the water heater has been put into bypass!)
At that point the drain/anode gets removed, inspected and replaced if necessary and the bung threads cleaned and lubed with plumbers grease.
The tank gets a flush, the anode reinstalled and we are good to go for the following year.
50+ years of doing this and never had crap in the aerators or a rusted out tank.

Everyone has a method... this is mine.

 

[JZ2608BS]

I can't believe how rusted the threads on this heater are. It hasn't been used and it looks like it's been used for many years.

I note in one of the videos wmtire linked, they suggest using mineral oil on the threads after cleaning them with a wire brush. I will certainly be doing that and hope it will help to slow down the corrosion.

I much prefer the aluminum tank I've had in my other trailers. Drain it every Winter and fill it up in the Spring. Simple and easy.

 

[Oaklevel]

Just like black tank flushing, water heater flushing has seemed to take on a persona of its own as of recent.
Once our water system is flushed, sanitized and pressurized, we never remove the water heater's drain/anode until time to winterize. (and ONLY once the water heater has been put into bypass!)
At that point the drain/anode gets removed, inspected and replaced if necessary and the bung threads cleaned and lubed with plumbers grease.
The tank gets a flush, the anode reinstalled and we are good to go for the following year.
50+ years of doing this and never had crap in the aerators or a rusted out tank.

Everyone has a method... this is mine.

X2................................ on the water heater system flush . ......and for us none of our campers came with a black tank flush.

 

[CedarCreekWoody]

My procedure and timing was the same as 5picker. I've never has an aluminum tank but I suspect they have the same corrosion issue but you just don't see it inside the tank.

 

[GolfingDave]

Just like black tank flushing, water heater flushing has seemed to take on a persona of its own as of recent.

Don't forget, some of us are full timers and have to do it sometime.
I prefer in the middle of the summer when I am at my home base and close to hardware stores or have access to deliveries. I was initially surprised how deteriorated my anode rod was the first time I pulled it a year and a half since new. Darn near completely gone.
I figured I would pull it, inspect it and reinstall. Not a chance.
And chunks of thick hard water deposits.

 

[JZ2608BS]

I'm just going to replace mine every spring when I dewinterize.

 

[Larry-NC]

OMG! These steel tanks are a PITA to maintain. Replacement anode rods, flushing the tank to remove deposits, vacuuming the tanks to remove large deposits, using vinegar to dilute the really big deposits and taping off the outside of the trailer to protect it from the vinegar flush.

I've never done any of this nonsense with my previous trailers, in 50 years. Apparently aluminum tanks are the way to go.

Those are extreme cases, where there's very hard and corrosive water. We drain our 2008 trailer with a Suburban water heater each fall and I squirt the water hose into it for less than a minute. We are still on the original anode rod (maybe 25% consumed, 75% remaining).

Look at the picture in the manual that WMTire referred you to. There's a 1/8" steel rod down the center of the anode rod (rest is magnesium or aluminum). You don't need to replace the rod until the steel is close to showing.

 

[5picker]

I'm just going to replace mine every spring when I dewinterize.

You can if you like, it's your money.

Here's the chart referred to and the 75% loss of anode replacement recommendation...