no 12v power and no manual reset on breaker

scarrick357

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May 2, 2021
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I have spent the better part of today going back and forth from the various posts (all of which were very helpful) and I believe I have found the 12 volt DC circuit breaker but it has no manual reset.


This is on a 2020 puma xle lite. I have not read much on the site about breakers without the manual reset - have some units had them without manual resets, thoughts? words of wisdom please...
 

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I had something similar.

My converter died at an Rv park and then without anything to recharge it, the battery died.

I replaced blade fuses in the back of the converter and I was back on line.

The breakers you show are auto resetting..

If the battery is dead and you’re connected with shore power I the converter, hopefully just the internal fuses.
 
My converter died at an Rv park and then without anything to recharge it, the battery died.

I replaced blade fuses in the back of the converter and I was back on line.

The breakers you show are auto resetting..

If the battery is dead and you’re connected with shore power I the converter, hopefully just the internal fuses.


This is good advice, in case you don't know if your battery(s) are discharged. Please read this entire FAQ thread linked below to learn about the converter, the reverse polarity fuses chrisski described, and a failed converter workaround.


https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f215/converter-or-inverter-they-are-different-152813.html
 
Moved thread from the Tips and Tricks sub-forum to the Electrical and Charging Systems sub-forum since the OP's questions are specific to that sub-forum.
 
thank you for the info / confirming my suspicions, i am waiting for my son to get back tomorrow with the tool bag he has and then testing will begin. I am happy to see that the part is not expensive and is something we can tackle relatively easy.
 
thank you for the info / confirming my suspicions, i am waiting for my son to get back tomorrow with the tool bag he has and then testing will begin. I am happy to see that the part is not expensive and is something we can tackle relatively easy.


Don't throw parts at it, till you know what the problem actually is. Did you read all the previous posts about your converter? Do you know if your battery is charged? Are you connected to shore power?
 
The breaker seems to be the self-reset type. Dirt simple to check it with a ohmmeter. Clean up this wiring! If the breaker is bad it's very simple to change.

If you removed the battery for that Minnesota winter storage it's possible -- heck likely -- you re-installed it backwards (white wire from the frame goes to the Negative battery pole) and blew the battery protection fuses in the power panel. A pair of 40a fuses right in the center. Without these fuses you can neither use nor charge the battery.

-- Chuck
 
The breaker seems to be the self-reset type. Dirt simple to check it with a ohmmeter. Clean up this wiring! If the breaker is bad it's very simple to change.

If you removed the battery for that Minnesota winter storage it's possible -- heck likely -- you re-installed it backwards (white wire from the frame goes to the Negative battery pole) and blew the battery protection fuses in the power panel. A pair of 40a fuses right in the center. Without these fuses you can neither use nor charge the battery.

-- Chuck
Chuck, gotta call you on that last sentence, the red one.

I've reverse engineered the fuse board on a common converter (not a difficult task--it's a two-sided board with no internal planes). The reverse polarity fuses isolate the converter from the battery and trailer. When they blow, the battery remains connected to the trailer.

You can still use the fans (backward), and the incandescent lamps. If the battery connections were made properly, you certainly could use the battery. Once the battery was drawn down, you would have to charge it with an external charger or jump it from the tow vehicle.
 
Quick video on you to hook up the battery.


White wire from the frame goes to the Negative pole of the battery. DC wiring. Converter should continue to provide 12vDC just won't charge the battery nor will the battery power anything that comes thru the power center.

-- Chuck
 
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very simple to use a multi meter to check voltage

connect one probe to a good ground and then start at the battery
measure voltage at each point... which means at each breaker , join or connection
measure the voltage on EACH terminal

you should get 12v at BOTH studs of a breaker ... if you only see voltage on one side it is tripped

you cab BYPASS the breaker for a little while (jumper wire) to confirm that may be your problem... before buying new breakers etc

if you know 12v is on both sides of the breaker... find the other end of the wire.
NO 12v at other end... broken wire
MEASURE the OHMs in the wire to confirm AND measure OHMS from wire to frame to rule out a short

Once you learn the basics and work in a ... good routine you can follow and diagnose wiring fairly easily and quickly.

Lots of videos on the youtube on how to use a multimeter
get a good meter that can measure DC amps easily (< $100 for a clamp style) you won't regret it.


PS that wiring sure looks like it can use some TLC
remove or replace the breakers ... as the electrical connection they have is so severely corroded for a few dollars you can replace them

wires and crimped eyes / lugs clean and remove all traces of corrosion make sure they are tight and that they are not restricting current flow
 
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