Only one slide out motor working

So my brain got it wrong and it is the front motor not working. I went out to the coach Saturday and did the factory reset to the controller with no luck. I couldn't even see where the motor is located for the front one. We are off to a trip Thursday without the slide operating for a week I guess.
 

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Browser5031. The motor sits in the wall above the top rail A. Pull back the rubber seal B and see if you can find a motor connector, the motor wiring will run down to the bottom from the motor. If you are to replace a motor, the whole vertical metal piece with seal C comes off if the slide is in. It looks like you have at least one screw over-torqued with a head broken off D. Your top rail is also chewed from motor to slide rack binding (looks familiar). The only area you can check for wiring is in the storage bin below all of this where your battery charger is located, there are slide motor controllers there on the right side wall, small boxes. Make sure all of the motor wires have good connections at the controller.
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When you attempted the stop reset, the side/motor in question did not move, but the opposite side did start to move out (assume slide is in), correct?

Doing the double button push (on the back of the button panel) should have at least moved the "good" motor outward (while pushing the OUT button). Did that happen on the stop reset attempt?

Holding down those 2 internal buttons and pressing the OUT button overrides the stop setting and should move the motors outward. The slide needs to move outward before resetting the IN stops.

I'd retry the button reset procedure again, as it can be easily done wrong / not taken on the first try.


Are you still getting the blinking red & green lights on the button panel? The same pattern as before the reset attempt?

The motor controllers in the Inverter/Charger/relay/wiring bay also have blinking lights that should have the same problem identified as the button panel. That will also show you which controller is doing which slide. Can you confirm the motor control blinking lights are the same pattern on the Controller?

As @malmz points out, also check on the motor wiring at the motor end in the wall, get eyes on the motor by flipping back the inner gasket to visually inspect it and the wiring and the plug connection.

If all that looks good, then before replacing the motor (which entails a lot of remove of stuff in tight spaces), you may want to try a motor controller swap (with the good slide in) as it is easier to do.

Unplugging the "working" motor controller from power and swapping it with the non working slide controller is another possible diagnostics step, but if one motor was responding and the other not, then I would think the controller is not the issue (but maybe it is). When my motor controller failed, neither motor would move. Doing a swap got my slides to come in so I could travel and finish a trip, but each swap required a stop reset procedure on each slide as I moved the one working controller from one slide to the other and back again.

If you opt to they this, make sure the good / working slide is in, as the "good" controller will need a stop reset when swapped too (thus losing the prior slide stop settings) and when swapped back you will need to do the reset again (rinse repeat). Be sure to mark both controllers (to their slide) and their wire/plugs (to their slide) to know which goes to which before any unplugging / swapping, so it can be put back to original after this diagnostic step. The plugs themselves as I recall are unique to the controller function so can be identified as to which controller socket they go into. You may need to unscrew the control from the bin wall to make the swap to reach the wiring harness for each.

Depending on the controller and wall switch you have in your model, this may be of help in general understanding the controller swap steps and to locate / identify the controllers:


Can you share a photo of the button panel and controller(s) you have? These may have changed over model years.

What model year 32KD?
 
When you attempted the stop reset, the side/motor in question did not move, but the opposite side did start to move out (assume slide is in), correct? Correct

Doing the double button push (on the back of the button panel) should have at least moved the "good" motor outward (while pushing the OUT button). Did that happen on the stop reset attempt? Yes

Holding down those 2 internal buttons and pressing the OUT button overrides the stop setting and should move the motors outward. The slide needs to move outward before resetting the IN stops. I did that, but again only the motor by the fridge.

I'd retry the button reset procedure again, as it can be easily done wrong / not taken on the first try.

Are you still getting the blinking red & green lights on the button panel? The same pattern as before the reset attempt? Same blinking as before the reset

The motor controllers in the Inverter/Charger/relay/wiring bay also have blinking lights that should have the same problem identified as the button panel. That will also show you which controller is doing which slide. Can you confirm the motor control blinking lights are the same pattern on the Controller? Same pattern
 
Okay, then thinking the motor controller swap may not be the fix (low probability), at least in my case neither motor would respond. Not sure if one side of the controller could go bad while the other side still works, but a possibility to eliminate is a controller swap, while tedious it is straight forward. It may also do a power rest on the controller.

It is odd that the lights / LEDs (1 & 7) say stop reset needed, but yet the reset didn't work. The LEDs "claim" to be able to flag a bad motor (1 & 4 or 2 & 4).


 
If you find the connector you can see if the motor moves while it is still in place, just don't go very far with one motor running. Use a jump box and a couple test wires.

The front motor on the 32KD chassis is probably one of the most unobstructed to reach and work on. The rear motor not so much..
 
I would think with a volt meter (or 12v trouble light), if you can access the plug, when the internal motor button in the panel is pressed and the OUT button is pressed, you would see 12v from the motor controller to the motor plug (unless the fault prevents the controller from sending 12v to the motor). If you see 12v at motor, then controller is working. If you don't see 12v at motor plug, then I would step back to motor controller and see if it is sending 12v. Test this at the motor controller plug too, to eliminate a wire problem from the controller to the motor.

Following Lippert's guidelines, Roadside Front most motor on a slide should be motor 2 on the controller, but best to confirm.

Before ripping into wall to remove motor, I see that as the last resort, the fact that the controller is still giving you 1&7 "Stop not Set" I still has me question is it the motor or could it still be something else? The controller LEDs infer they can flag a Motor Fault (1&4 and 2&4) and a Motor Fuse (1&8 and 2&8), but it is giving you 1&7. That gives me pause before opening the wall and all that it entails.
 
It looks like by other posts it is going to be the summer of failed slide out motors for us Europa owners. My job has been crazy working 6 days a week lately, so I haven't had a chance to try and remove the motor until today. I removed the aluminum plate and disconnected the wiring. I brought my volt meter, but unfortunately I was solo and couldn't work the slide out controller and hold the leads to the motor wires. I tried to remove the motor but was unable to locate the motor retention screw. There was water in the black shielding to the motor wires, which is not a good sign as I had the slide out seal replaced under warranty last fall. Also already light surface rust on a small area of the motor. I have attached a couple of photos.
 

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It looks like the slide seal wipe is all the way IN, and it is covering the retention screw. If you shove the slide seal back out where the motor is, you should be able to get eyes on it
 
Fwiw, I have had an intermittent motor issue on one of my slides rear motor. Had the motor replaced once. Happened again during a trip. I actually have a spare motor I was going to replace it with. Gained access and pushed the connector in a bit and it worked. It has worked without issue for a few months now but I know I will need to replace the connector or wire at some point.
Worth a shot.
 
The bolt head should be on the silver L bracket here, but the head doesn't show in your picture, I wonder if they ever fall out, or like Brian said it is there but under the swipe seal. Something still chewed up that rack close to the motor, binding.
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The bolt head should be on the silver L bracket here, but the head doesn't show in your picture, I wonder if they ever fall out, or like Brian said it is there but under the swipe seal. Something still chewed up that rack close to the motor, binding.View attachment 1116078
Thanks, yes I felt something there that could have definitely been a bolt head. Sounds like they are 8mm.
 
Thanks, yes I felt something there that could have definitely been a bolt head. Sounds like they are 8mm.
Just an FYI, in case you did not know. That bolt does not need to be removed, just loosened so you can lift the motor out. The metal bracket is slotted with an opening at the bottom.
 
Just an FYI, in case you did not know. That bolt does not need to be removed, just loosened so you can lift the motor out. The metal bracket is slotted with an opening at the bottom.
This is the most sage advice I have received all day!. not searching for a tiny bolt by taking it all the way out and falling into the channel.
 

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