options for towing with a job box?

[rupertpupkin]

34" tall job box from Knaack. Do I have any options to tow a 5th wheel with this? I can't find any info on how construction workers travel with their job box. The only thing I came up with is get a travel trailer or find a 5th wheel that has enough pass through storage and lay the job box down on it's side. That would be a major pain tho.

 

[mmartin_tdc]

Toy hauler might be an option.
I don't see how that large of a box would work in the bed of the truck pulling a 5th wheel.
I suspect it weighs a fair amount so it would eat into your available tongue weight with 5th wheel or TT.

 

[rupertpupkin]

Toy hauler might be an option.
I don't see how that large of a box would work in the bed of the truck pulling a 5th wheel.
I suspect it weighs a fair amount so it would eat into your available tongue weight with 5th wheel or TT.

it’s only 280lbs. I’m guessing there’s no hitch or 5th wheel that would allow for that kind of clearance?

 

[mmartin_tdc]

On my 2012 RAM, that would sit 13" above the bed rail. I have never seen any 5th wheel or goose neck with that high of rail clearance.
If you had a long bed truck, depending on how wide(from cab back into bed) the box is, might give you some options. I know my Anderson hitch I can install so it moves the tongue back about 4" from the axle.

 

[llr2800]

Any chance of laying it on its side in the truck? Would probably require an 8' bed

 

[Oaklevel]

I'm confused why can't it be located in front of the hitch behind the cab on a full size bed truck? or use a flat bed truck? and tow a fifth wheel?

 

[5picker]

it’s only 280lbs. I’m guessing there’s no hitch or 5th wheel that would allow for that kind of clearance?

Not unless you towed way nose high. Not recommend.

 

[5picker]

I'm confused why can't it be located in front of the hitch behind the cab on a full size bed truck? or use a flat bed truck? and tow a fifth wheel?

If you only towed in a straight line it would work there but making a turn causes the lower platform of the nose to rotate over where the job box would sit.

The only options are a box only as high as the bed rails or mount it elsewhere. (possibly a rear hitch platform)

 

[dangerranger]

When traveling to construction jobs I was towing a TT with a flat bed truck. When I was pulling a 40' 5th wheel office trailer My tools and box went in the trailer.

I doubt you will get a 3' tall box in the truck bed while towing a 5r. They do make lower boxes though. DR

 

[Oaklevel]

If you only towed in a straight line it would work there but making a turn causes the lower platform of the nose to rotate over where the job box would sit.

The only options are a box only as high as the bed rails or mount it elsewhere. (possibly a rear hitch platform)

See it done all the time with a Miller Welder or a job box in between the truck cab and the hitch. You can turn where the trailer is 90 degrees to the truck and never hit either.

My fifth wheel hitches stop at the hitch plate.

 

[jimmoore13]

14" is an insane amount to make up for clearance. Example. An F-350 bed is just over 20" deep. I don't see how you can do this.

I assume your jobsite box is intended to be lifted into and out of the truck on a regular basis. If that's the case, that's the answer. But if you need a way to perform this task alone, read on. If the toolbox is permanently mounted in the bed, read on.

Wild speculation - and a bit tongue in cheek:
1. Lift your rig. Add a lift kit to increase ground clearance on the fivere by, say, 3 or 4 inches.
2. Convert the fifth wheel hitch to a gooseneck...assuming your rig's pin box will accommodate that switch. Some will and some won't.
3. Extend the pin box to move the rig rearward, once again assuming the pin box can handle that extra stress.
4. Do the math on the measurements and see if you can make the needed turns and maneuvers with this contraption.
I don't think it will work unless the front of the trailer is VERY high compared to the rear.

Alternatively, and less crazy...perhaps...make your job box more easilyh removable by one person.
Change the mount to some sort of quick release. Perhaps bolt angle to the bed forward of the box. Drill a hole to receive a pin bolted to the side of the front feet. Match the pin to a hole in the angle iron. Add clevis pin or hitch pin.
Add casters to the bottom of the box to wheel it clear of the cab.
Weld on or bolt on hoist lift points to either side of the box.
Now you have a quick disconnect tool box that can be rolled to the rear of the TV bed and lifted out with a floor crane.
You still might want to look into that Gooseneck adapter for the fifthwheel pin box and adding a gooseneck ball in the bed rather than having to remove or install the fifth wheel hitch every time you want to tow the rig.

Or, nice as the Knaack is, find another way to carry your tools.

Again, largely tongue in cheek. I don't think your Knaack is worth the effort, unless it's routinely removed from the truck and locked down on a job site. Perhaps you have workers who perform that task. If the Knaack stays put, there are lots of bed-mounted toolboxes that stay below the bed rails of your TV and leave room for a fifth wheel hitch...and you can sell the Knaack to recoup some of that expense. Every other option is FAR more costly.

Best of luck.

 

[jimmoore13]

I'm confused why can't it be located in front of the hitch behind the cab on a full size bed truck? or use a flat bed truck? and tow a fifth wheel?

It's very likely that the front cap of the fiver would hit the toolbox during tight turns or when maneuvering into a campsite.

 

[Oaklevel]

It's very likely that the front cap of the fiver would hit the toolbox during tight turns or when maneuvering into a campsite.

It would not hit on the 5th wheels and trucks that I own or have owned.

 

[rupertpupkin]

14" is an insane amount to make up for clearance. Example. An F-350 bed is just over 20" deep. I don't see how you can do this.

I assume your jobsite box is intended to be lifted into and out of the truck on a regular basis. If that's the case, that's the answer. But if you need a way to perform this task alone, read on. If the toolbox is permanently mounted in the bed, read on.

Wild speculation - and a bit tongue in cheek:
1. Lift your rig. Add a lift kit to increase ground clearance on the fivere by, say, 3 or 4 inches.
2. Convert the fifth wheel hitch to a gooseneck...assuming your rig's pin box will accommodate that switch. Some will and some won't.
3. Extend the pin box to move the rig rearward, once again assuming the pin box can handle that extra stress.
4. Do the math on the measurements and see if you can make the needed turns and maneuvers with this contraption.
I don't think it will work unless the front of the trailer is VERY high compared to the rear.

Alternatively, and less crazy...perhaps...make your job box more easilyh removable by one person.
Change the mount to some sort of quick release. Perhaps bolt angle to the bed forward of the box. Drill a hole to receive a pin bolted to the side of the front feet. Match the pin to a hole in the angle iron. Add clevis pin or hitch pin.
Add casters to the bottom of the box to wheel it clear of the cab.
Weld on or bolt on hoist lift points to either side of the box.
Now you have a quick disconnect tool box that can be rolled to the rear of the TV bed and lifted out with a floor crane.
You still might want to look into that Gooseneck adapter for the fifthwheel pin box and adding a gooseneck ball in the bed rather than having to remove or install the fifth wheel hitch every time you want to tow the rig.

Or, nice as the Knaack is, find another way to carry your tools.

Again, largely tongue in cheek. I don't think your Knaack is worth the effort, unless it's routinely removed from the truck and locked down on a job site. Perhaps you have workers who perform that task. If the Knaack stays put, there are lots of bed-mounted toolboxes that stay below the bed rails of your TV and leave room for a fifth wheel hitch...and you can sell the Knaack to recoup some of that expense. Every other option is FAR more costly.

Best of luck.

I really appreciate the input. This would be a situation where the job box would get unloaded and would stay on the job site until my work is done. I do not need a permanent tool box on the bed.

 

[rupertpupkin]

See it done all the time with a Miller Welder or a job box in between the truck cab and the hitch. You can turn where the trailer is 90 degrees to the truck and never hit either.

My fifth wheel hitches stop at the hitch plate.

any pics or specs on the welder or job box? Also the model of trailer?

 

[NMWildcat]

any pics or specs on the welder or job box? Also the model of trailer?

I see this, but mainly with bumper pulls and/or trucks with utility or flat beds. I suppose it could be done if you had a long bed and a fifth wheel with an extended pin box. The only way to know is get measurments from the kingpin to front corner of RV and distance to job box. Lots of articles on how to determine how much clearance you will have with a fifth wheel.
Personally, it seems like you need a bumper pull or a much smaller job box.

 

[dangerranger]

DeWalt, Rigid, and Northern tool all sell boxes under 20" high. Or look at bumper pull trailers. With a bumper pull I also had the bed for a small motorcycle. DR

 

[5picker]

I see this, but mainly with bumper pulls and/or trucks with utility or flat beds. I suppose it could be done if you had a long bed and a fifth wheel with an extended pin box. The only way to know is get measurments from the kingpin to front corner of RV and distance to job box. Lots of articles on how to determine how much clearance you will have with a fifth wheel.
Personally, it seems like you need a bumper pull or a much smaller job box.

Correct.
It would have to be a l-o-n-g bed between the cab and the hitch since at least 1/2 of the nose would need to go over top of the box.

I've had seven 5th wheels now and none of them would have had that clearance, even the one with the Revolution hitch.

 

[5picker]

See it done all the time with a Miller Welder or a job box in between the truck cab and the hitch. You can turn where the trailer is 90 degrees to the truck and never hit either.

My fifth wheel hitches stop at the hitch plate.

It would not hit on the 5th wheels and trucks that I own or have owned.

Maybe show us your setup??

This is normal...

 

[Howard98579]

From My experience with my 89 F250 and towing a 5th. I had a 3 foot wide platform behind my cab that I hauled a motorcycle on . I moved the 5th wheel hitch back 10 inches and extended the pin forward 1 foot . It towed fine and gave me plenty of room for turning without any problems. I also raised the trailer up 4 inches to make it towing level . Do some measuring and checking to see what could work for you.