Possible Enclosed Underbelly Problems Resolved

LadyWindrider

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2008
Messages
2,381
Location
Winston-Salem, NC
Hello,

Got an enclosed underbelly out that way overpriced hard to find plastic cardboard? Want to enclose your underbelly but don't know how? Need to enclose your underbelly for winter camping?

Have I got an answer for you, just send $5.00 to ............

Well I can't get away with that, so here it is for nothing. I have been working some as an RV tech, and noticed something the last few weeks. The high end Cardinal trailers have an enclosed underbelly. Nothing unusual, except theirs is made from "TIN" roofing material. Available at any hardware store. The one I was working on today, due blown tire damage, had tin roof just bolted to the frame rails using self tapping 1/4 inch bolts. Got me to thinking I could enclose mine, and maybe you could to, if interested. The roofing had no sag like we see in the plastic. No rust either, and the trailer was s few years old. Doesn't go fender to fender, but did look nice between the frame rails. Just a thought. After it was installed, they hit the edges with some of the expandable foam to seal it. Of course I had to get rid of that to get the belly down to repair the wiring harness from the blown tire, but fixable.
 
My wife and I just bought a new TT with the heated underbelly. Is this space heated by just allowing the furnace to dump warm air into this space? If that's the case are there a couple of openings in the ductwork?
 
I don't think they are heated, just supposedly insulated and the tanks and pipes have heat pads. Ours leaves much to be deired as it has a vent in the middle of one panel and with all the holes that the factory cut in the floor for wires and pipes, well it has more drafts in it than the 100 year old out house that sits beside our garden. I do like the idea that Windrider has posted though as our belly panels have the sag for sure as well.
 
I have a 2000 FR Grand Surveyor with the enclosed underbelly. Recently I have had to gain access to my waste water dump valves which are hidden above the underbelly enclosure. This required me to completely remove two (2) pieces of this sheet metal to access the are I needed. While these two pieces were off I took the opportunity to inspect all I could see with a flashlight just for my info. There is a flexible A/C type hose lying between the grey water and black water tanks that does not terminate into anything other than open space. I turned on the heater just to check and warm air did indeed come out of this hose. I also ran the A/C to check for colder air but there was NO air blowing with the A/C on. So I suppose I can state with some proof that the underbelly area of my unit is heated but not cooled. And--NO--removing this sheet metal and putting it back into place is not the easiest thing I have ever done.
 
That CorPlast material stinks. I am sure it is why they replaced it.

While it makes good "Political" roadside signs, it sags, collects water and mud (increasing trailer weight by hundreds of pounds), offers NO protection from road trash and most likely will fail while going down the highway.

If I ever need to take it down again, I will be doing the "Tin Roof" Mod.
;)
 
Either the 'tin' or fiberglas. Problem with the fiberglas is the ends unless you get the wooden framework for it. The tin can be hammered or bent flat.
 
Can you please give me a link to the tin material you are talking about?

Thanks
 
Wonder how much weight the tin would add, the plastic is very light weight but the tin would certainly add quite a few pounds.
 
I would also like the information.

Thanks...
Tom

26" wide x 96" long weights 6.8#

So, it would take 2 steel sheets to cover 1 of the plastic. I would guestimate you would gain about 10# per plastic sheet replaced. Less than 100# gain for the whole trailer. Lot of work for what you are gaining IMO.
 
Last edited:
FYI......the Cardinals don't use that anymore.

It was a galvanized steel sheet, and was removable in 4 foot sections.
 

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