Propane gas not functioning

[Johns10711]

I made the mistake of using an old propane filled tank, probably 2 yrs old or earlier. I installed it on my 21TDMHW .It worked for a while for the furnace, as a test. But of late, fuel isn't coming to the three burner stock. The regulator position knob is on the right tank, and the propane take is open. I think the auto regulator is plugged with the old fuel. The A frame is 8 yrs old, so I thought, best to buy a new regulator, and exchange the old tank for two new ones.. On Amazon I bought a Cavagna Kosan 924N Auto Changeover Regulator w/RV L Bracket. When it arrived, I was pleased with it's quality, but it came with Brass Nuts on each side of the housing. The pigtails Won`t screw into the regulator, but probably will if I take off 3the brass nuts. Unfortunately, try as had as might, I can`t remove the brass nuts. I don`t think they are reversed thread.
I think any more pressure on the brass nuts will damage the regulator, so that I couldn't return , for a refund. I might have to buy new pigtails ( mine are new ), that fit thevbrass nuts.
I haven`t been able to find on the internet another dual regulator , that doesn't come with these brass nuts. Must be a government regulation play. I`m thinking of going with just one regulator and tank, and harness the spare tank under the back storage area under the bed. That would help take a few pounds off a 450 lb tongue weight, and distribute the load.

Any thoughts. Thanks for your time

 

[Brandoni]

20# propane tank safety valve and switch-over propane pigtails

Hello, you are having much the same as my original thoughts . . .

There are two hexes on one side of the switch-over device . . . The large one I couldn't move and there's a tinier one a bit further out. This is the one that can be wound out of the switch-over device. A smaller wrench on this can be helpful. Your pigtails have this smaller sized nipple.

But

I don't think this is your problem yet.

The new style propane tanks have a propane stop flow device fitted in the valve.

Sometimes they are frustratingly sensitive and will stop the propane flow long before you're ready for it. If nothing is connected to the tank this safety will stop propane flow. Sadly the piping when empty appears the same to the safety valve as it's being opened.

(#1) To reset the valve close the propane tank fully and disconnect the plastic nut that fits to the valve. You may be able to hear a faint sound (tic) as the safety valve re-opens.

Reconnect the plastic nut and (main point) open the valve slowly. 1/6 of a turn.
The valve handle has three lobes, so open one half a lobe. You will hear a hiss as the propane begins filling the piping system. A sharp TIC sound is the safety being set. Return to #1 and restart. As the hiss sound decreases wait a minute and open the propane valve fully (closing a 1/4 turn is good practice ; )

Inside the trailer, light the stove first . . . It may be a few moments and lighting attempts before the stove lights.

Your heater and other propane devices will be ready for use again.

When I had the Subaru Forester I did just what you're thinking . . . I put the two propane tanks under the bed to get the tongue weight below 200 lbs. (Max tongue weight for a Forester). Happily those days are behind with the Sorento as a tow vehicle . . . It happily pulls the trailer where-ever we've venturered ; )

Good luck with the propane challenge and happy trails ahead.