Questions: Inspections/orientation after deal is signed.

We did a special order through a dealer in Illinois, about 2,100 miles away. It’ll take 2 months for the trailer to come in. I’m thinking about flying out to be able to do a physical inspection. I just don’t want to spend a lot on travel as that negates the savings.
 
I’m thinking about flying out to be able to do a physical inspection. I just don’t want to spend a lot on travel as that negates the savings.

So I wonder how you plan on getting the trailer home after flying out to inspect it...
 
I agree with everybody telling you to not sign until after any problems found during the PDI have been repaired. I also agree with leaving your emotions at home and being prepared to get back home without a new RV.

I bought my last RV at Shady Maple RV in PA. The day I was scheduled to sign, pay for and leave with my new Windjammer, I was very excited and couldn’t wait to leave out of there with my new RV. I was so impatient I would have even left without doing a PDI. But the manager at Shady Maple insisted that a thorough PDI must be done before any RV leaves “his place”. My wife and I spent over an hour going over paperwork, asking questions and getting answers when we first got there, but were not allowed to sign anything until we completed the PDI. We were taken out to the RV by the manager and handed over to their lead technician who guided us through every little detail of our future purchase. He showed us how everything works and proved that everything did, indeed, work. This guy told us he had been assigned to deal with our RV before the sale and it was his job to make sure everything was right before the PDI — he had spent a few hours on it the day before and the day of the sale. He seemed to take pride in making sure everything was perfect before the PDI. There was not one single item that needed to be fixed because he had already taken care of the few things he found during his inspection prior to the PDI. He told us about the things he had done — none of which were major.

After we had completed the PDI, the tech walked us back into the office where he confirmed with the manager that the PDI was completed, then handed him the PDI check list with no items needing attention.

We were then permitted to sign the contract.

Our PDI was actually forced upon us by the dealer, but from what I have read on RV forums, most dealers would prefer there was no such thing as a PDI, and very few actually encourage or force you to spend the time it takes to do a thorough PDI without charging you for it.

Hopefully you will find a dealer like the one I found and you won’t leave out of there with any surprises. Just remember to not sign anything blinding before you do a thorough PDI and get anything you don’t want to handle on your own fixed.

Bruce
 
A transport service

Is the cost of the airfare out + the cost of the airfare back + the cost of the transport > the cost savings buying at a distance? I hope not.

Consider driving your TV to the RV dealer, test camp near the dealer, and (if all is OK), transport the RV home yourself.
 
Is the cost of the airfare out + the cost of the airfare back + the cost of the transport > the cost savings buying at a distance? I hope not.

Consider driving your TV to the RV dealer, test camp near the dealer, and (if all is OK), transport the RV home yourself.


You clearly do not know the savings involved.
 
You clearly do not know the savings involved.
Yep, people in other parts of the country don't get how much more expensive RVs are out West. Dealers out here make profit on the shipping costs, in addition to the sale profits. Dealers won't match Midwest prices, even if you pay the higher shipping costs.
 
Yep, people in other parts of the country don't get how much more expensive RVs are out West. Dealers out here make profit on the shipping costs, in addition to the sale profits. Dealers won't match Midwest prices, even if you pay the higher shipping costs.

Can you give an example of two prices? I did not know about this practice.

Ray
 
Can you give an example of two prices? I did not know about this practice.

Ray
It would take too long of a post to go into detail.
But we tried to buy local for our first new TT. Got a price quote invoice from a Chicago dealer. Shopped 3 local NorCal dealers to find out if they would match the price and we would pay the shipping costs. All 3 refused showed their prices. Not only were their sale prices much higher, we found that they inflated what they said they paid for shipping.
We ended up driving to Chicago and back, making the return leg as a camping trip. Paid about 65% of what the NorCal dealers wanted. FR found us local dealers willing to do the warranty work. One of them was one of the 3 dealers that refused to make a deal with us.
 
It would take too long of a post to go into detail.
But we tried to buy local for our first new TT. Got a price quote invoice from a Chicago dealer. Shopped 3 local NorCal dealers to find out if they would match the price and we would pay the shipping costs. All 3 refused showed their prices. Not only were their sale prices much higher, we found that they inflated what they said they paid for shipping.

We ended up driving to Chicago and back, making the return leg as a camping trip. Paid about 65% of what the NorCal dealers wanted. FR found us local dealers willing to do the warranty work. One of them was one of the 3 dealers that refused to make a deal with us.

Thanks, that helps a lot. I've heard the normal discounting on ma brands is 30% to 35% off MSRP so it sounds like the west coast dealers are trying to sell close to MSRP and also inflate the shipping costs and yes, I'd be doing the same thing if I saw a price difference like that.

Ray
 
The lowest my two local (Sacramento) dealers would go is $68k. The two dealers I was working with in the mid west were at $52k. The further you go west away from the factory the more they go up.
 
The lowest my two local (Sacramento) dealers would go is $68k. The two dealers I was working with in the mid west were at $52k. The further you go west away from the factory the more they go up.
West Coast dealers know that most consumers out here, are ignorant about the huge price differences. And even if they did, most wouldn't bother buying from dealers 2000 miles away. They want their RV now without any hassles or having to drive cross country and are willing to pay much higher prices, for the convenience.
And you can clearly see, with the current RV sales boom, how uninformed the general public is about buying a RV.
 
Nightmare on new purchase

I purchased an Isata 3 and there were a couple of issues when we did the walk thru. We did a short trip to try things out and found more issues. Campingworld Manassas VA is still has my motor home. I have escalated to the CEO of campingworld. Still waiting for a resolution. I also contacted Dynamax to help speed things along.
 
What are the steps I should take so that I have some leverage/protection between the time I sign the purchase agreement and the time I drive off with my new RV?

Google “PDI checklist“ and you will find some good forms. Check things you wouldn’t think of like plug sockets, faucets, Water pump, etc. Definitely sliders and stabilizers or levelers, auto-step, etc. that’s why a checklist is helpful.
 
Only purchase this crap if you live across the street from where you bought it. Your disappointments and frustrations are just starting. Start a list of your problems for entertainment purposes only.
 
Use caution and be aware you local dealer may not be willing to do your warranty work
I prearranged with a local who sold my last 5th wheel to do the Warrenty work (he did not carry the model i wanted). When i call about an appointment to get work done I basically got the finger. Even thought he made money off my 5th wheel
 
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What are the steps I should take so that I have some leverage/protection between the time I sign the purchase agreement and the time I drive off with my new RV?

I am getting the impression that there is no more honeymoon period after the agreement is signed and the funds are transferred. Yet I want to ensure that there is a thorough inspection and orientation with a qualified individual before I take delivery. I am thinking (maybe overthinking) of a case where I get dropped off at at a dealer to take delivery and then find there are a number of things that are not operational. They tell me to take the RV and they will fix it the next day. How do savvy purchasers handle this part of the purchase? What releases the responsibility/ownership to me as purchaser?
I could not tell from your post if your rv is a towable.

The one thing I learned from the fall of 2018, is to take it for a test drive before signing the papers and pray for a windy day that day! Had I known that, would have saved me from 3 months of camping cancelled, and endless toils with the dealer service department. I had to cancel almost of all 2019 trips with the rig being in the shop for bad axles, and now 2020 was almost all cancelled due to covid. I write this on the eve of our next camping trip, and I am finally going (with high confidence) to enjoy my new camper!

In the end, FR does get it fixed, but at the expense of your time and patience - just make sure you have documented the problems with the service department before the warranty is out. In hindsight, I would never have signed the papers with the way the rig handled just a quarter mile down the road from the dealer. I know your trying to prevent these issues.

Good luck, but my 2 cents is to tow it before you sign the papers - I'll never make that mistake again. Poor towability, will make the rig "eat itself". Imagine all the plastics and cheap things breaking each trip. I had everything from screws popping out, sinks dropping, thermostat shorted, woodwork falling, and roof leaks due to bad axles! Not to mention extremely white knuckles on the steering wheel!

Cheers!
 
I could not tell from your post if your rv is a towable.

The one thing I learned from the fall of 2018, is to take it for a test drive before signing the papers and pray for a windy day that day! Had I known that, would have saved me from 3 months of camping cancelled, and endless toils with the dealer service department. I had to cancel almost of all 2019 trips with the rig being in the shop for bad axles, and now 2020 was almost all cancelled due to covid. I write this on the eve of our next camping trip, and I am finally going (with high confidence) to enjoy my new camper!

In the end, FR does get it fixed, but at the expense of your time and patience - just make sure you have documented the problems with the service department before the warranty is out. In hindsight, I would never have signed the papers with the way the rig handled just a quarter mile down the road from the dealer. I know your trying to prevent these issues.

Good luck, but my 2 cents is to tow it before you sign the papers - I'll never make that mistake again. Poor towability, will make the rig "eat itself". Imagine all the plastics and cheap things breaking each trip. I had everything from screws popping out, sinks dropping, thermostat shorted, woodwork falling, and roof leaks due to bad axles! Not to mention extremely white knuckles on the steering wheel!

Cheers!
Wow! Good luck with the new rig!
I am considering a Class C. Lots of good information on this forum. You'd think the manufacturers would realize they could save money and aggravation by implementing a quality control program at the factory.
 

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