Refrigerator draws the battery down.

[Grayfox]

TRY, this link. I have done this procedure myself and it works.

New Dometic refrigerator problem - Page 2 - iRV2 Forums

 

[Bogey3025]

Thank you everyone! We will be addressing the repair this weekend. Thanks for all the support.

 

[RPAspey-FRF]

Im rolling with the humidity switch too. but please check back and let us know. when you do check back, it gives us feedback to do a better job with the next problem we face. this forum becomes a two way street, where we help one another mutually. it gives us closure and we sleep better at night. it gives us a response for the wife when they complain about all the time were wasting...lol

Boy ain't this the truth. I catch heck all the time!

 

[Bogey3025]

Weekend results:
Battery tested a little low when fully charged but the tech did not feel it need to be replaced. But we did..we switched the 12V to 2-6V. Checked the refrigerator and there does not appear to be an humidity control. We have a DM 2862. This week while at NASCAR we will see if the two 6V's can get us through the night. I hope so!!

 

[glen1971]

Bogey - Are you running your fridge on Battery or Propane? I know that our fridge would kill our batteries overnight if we lost propane and it switched to battery... We got so that was one of the first things we did in our old TT was switch it from Battery to Gas and make sure it lit... Usually we lit a burner on the stove first to make sure the air was out of the system first..

 

[Bogey3025]

Propane...
We always do the same thing... Light the stove to get the gas moving

 

[Big Bill]

i had thesame problem with the battery going dead overnite, i tried finding out what amp draw the frig has , to no availe, ambiet temp is a factor too, i didnt pursue it as most of the time im on shore power or towing,

 

[Crockett]

Weekend results:
Battery tested a little low when fully charged but the tech did not feel it need to be replaced. But we did..we switched the 12V to 2-6V. Checked the refrigerator and there does not appear to be an humidity control. We have a DM 2862. This week while at NASCAR we will see if the two 6V's can get us through the night. I hope so!!

i looked at what greyfox had to say...and checked that forum thread. then i went to the laurelhurst site to look at the schematic for myself and grey fox is dead ON...the heat strip picks up power before the interior light switch and grounds after the bulb. Its on all the time...BINGO!

 

[Bogey3025]

We don't have a 2852, that switch is not available on our unit. And yes, that means it's on all the time..

 

[Crockett]

I'm sorry....they have had manual switches on those for decades and then dometic decides its not important? thats a fair sized parasitic drain to a dry camper...I'm just in shock a little...

 

[Bogey3025]

Update: two 6V batteries have provided the solution. Battery reads full the next morning...thanks for the tips.

 

[Grayfox]

I'm sorry....they have had manual switches on those for decades and then dometic decides its not important? thats a fair sized parasitic drain to a dry camper...I'm just in shock a little...

Do the Mod in the light. Just cut the wire in the pics. place male and female ends on the cut wire. Just keep the wire disconnected when running on the battery only.... I t absolutely works... no drain

 

[TURBS]

Good to hear you got it!

 

[RPAspey-FRF]

Thanks for the update

 

[chriscowles]

TRY, this link. I have done this procedure myself and it works.
New Dometic refrigerator problem - Page 2 - iRV2 Forums

Has anyone considered drilling the lower half of the light fixture, below the door switch, and installing an SPST switch? It seems to me that a special switch may be called for to avoid moisture-related shorts. But if there's room, that makes turning it on and off easy.

 

[Crockett]

they got a push button replacement switch for the outside assist handle that is moisture resistant...maybe thats a good choice for a retrofit internally in the cabinet.

edit...no way to tell position of switch though

 

[gooiebob]

I pulled the light box off and found a connector that goes to the humidity control. I dremeled out the bottom of the light base and cover and the connector hangs under the light so it can be disconnected when needed. Light still works with the connecter apart. Hardest part is getting the box off. The plastic rivets can be reused.
Bob

 

[MNtraveler]

If you have a Dometic refrigerator you might want to check if you have this Climate Control Switch and if it is on.

Our Dometic manual (dated 3/14) says this is on model NDM1062 only. And it now carries its own indicator lamp labeled CLC. These aspects might have been different in other years. Glad to know and check, though!

 

[MNtraveler]

 

[CeeWoo]

I've been reading this thread and apologize in advance if I missed something.

I bought a new Forest River Cruise Lite-20' a little over a month ago. First camped in it a week later (with full hookups) and the fridge froze everything in it. My dealer is over 2 hrs away so in phone communications, we're fairly certain that it's a bad thermister. I've since gone 'dry camping' (i did run a generator every morning to make coffee & recharge btry)with the trailer once, and have turned the fridge OFF at night to prevent the freezing (seems that about 8 hrs at night helps the freezing issue). Anyhow parked the trailer with nothing turned on inside about 2 weeks ago and the battery tested a whole 1.56 volts when I just checked on the trailer. Quite a parasitic drain!!!

Any thoughts on if I'm going to have that problem persist even after the thermister is replaced? OR should I go looking for that wire to cut? I don't want to invalidate my warranty