hitchn2go
Senior Member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2017
- Posts
- 224
Refrigerator finally failed after 120k miles of it bumping down the road. I have a 2018 DX3 RB and here are some things I learned and wanted to pass along in case info could be helpful:
1) you may get refrig thru the entry door but you’ll likely need to take all the refrig doors off along with the door brackets (on both the old and new unit)…not hard and just takes some time but much better (and cheaper) than removing a slide or window. Just get the refrigerator down to the square “box”
2) if your refrigerator is installed above the floor, build a sturdy wood platform the exact height of the “install hole” and the old unit can easily be rolled onto it after removing any anchoring screws (mine had screws at the front rollers and also on the top brackets). On installation I had to move the “new box” in/out several times to make adjustments and the platform made that process easy. (Without a platform you will be lifting awkwardly and at same time trying to fit unit into a very tight space—not fun).
3) replacement refrigerators that are Countertop Depth” are the most narrow, but still you MUST measure “the box” without the doors/drawers to make sure it will fit thru entry door. (Also, critical to look at rear of unit to consider any protrusions that add to box depth dimensions—mine had a water connection I had to consider which added about 1/2 inch.
4) be aware that just because it is advertised as “counter top depth” remember to measure the install opening (height & width) to make sure the new unit will actually fit once you get it inside rv….I was dealing with less than 1/2 inch tolerances on my RV.
5) measure, measure, and recheck measurements….you can’t go by a factory spec sheet so I found actually putting a tape measure on a new unit is critical….you may be dealing with tolerances of 1/4 inches or less.
I get it…all RVs and refrigerators are unique (measurement tolerances-wise) but hopefully this post will help identify some things to consider if you needed to tackle this job.
1) you may get refrig thru the entry door but you’ll likely need to take all the refrig doors off along with the door brackets (on both the old and new unit)…not hard and just takes some time but much better (and cheaper) than removing a slide or window. Just get the refrigerator down to the square “box”
2) if your refrigerator is installed above the floor, build a sturdy wood platform the exact height of the “install hole” and the old unit can easily be rolled onto it after removing any anchoring screws (mine had screws at the front rollers and also on the top brackets). On installation I had to move the “new box” in/out several times to make adjustments and the platform made that process easy. (Without a platform you will be lifting awkwardly and at same time trying to fit unit into a very tight space—not fun).
3) replacement refrigerators that are Countertop Depth” are the most narrow, but still you MUST measure “the box” without the doors/drawers to make sure it will fit thru entry door. (Also, critical to look at rear of unit to consider any protrusions that add to box depth dimensions—mine had a water connection I had to consider which added about 1/2 inch.
4) be aware that just because it is advertised as “counter top depth” remember to measure the install opening (height & width) to make sure the new unit will actually fit once you get it inside rv….I was dealing with less than 1/2 inch tolerances on my RV.
5) measure, measure, and recheck measurements….you can’t go by a factory spec sheet so I found actually putting a tape measure on a new unit is critical….you may be dealing with tolerances of 1/4 inches or less.
I get it…all RVs and refrigerators are unique (measurement tolerances-wise) but hopefully this post will help identify some things to consider if you needed to tackle this job.
