Refrigerator water/icemaker shutoff

[CyberShanks!]

I'll start with saying I have had past history with Samsung, I have to admit, I cringed when I saw that is the brand of refrigerator in our new rig. During our PDI, it was discovered that the brand new fridge had already leaked antifreeze all over under it and to the point it was puddled up in the lower storage compartment. It has been cleaned up and the technician performing the PDI pulled the refrigerator out of the mount to check lines and fittings and is confident the leak is internal to the refrigerator itself.


Looking thru some of the build pics I noticed what looks like the cold line T'ing off of the cold faucet feed and heading back towards the refrigerator. Pulling a drawer or two by the refrigerator shows it heading to a valve which then changes it to a white line looping down and thru the wall.



I already see how to disable the ice maker, electronically, adding to that the ability to shut off the water, I am fine with leaving it this way.


I heard that supply shortages for Frigidaire is why the move to Samsung happened, I am not knocking anyone for doing so. I would however vote that the idea be re-visited with other refrigerator manufacturers in mind.


Assuming this would be 2 separate shutoffs are only for the refrigerator water line?


Will see if this refrigerator can just keep things cold and we'll be good.


Thanks,
Jim

 

[MAC D]

I took some pictures on a factory tour in October.

Here's a shot from the outside looking in to under the refrigerator space of an M2 TS. I would say that both shutoffs belong to the refrigerator and that was what I thought at the time.

I think your rig may have been in the paint booth at the time of the pic!

We took delivery last February and haven't turned the water on to the ice maker/water dispenser. We are a little fussy about the water we drink.

 

[MoJoe1003]

I'll start with saying I have had past history with Samsung, I have to admit, I cringed when I saw that is the brand of refrigerator in our new rig. During our PDI, it was discovered that the brand new fridge had already leaked antifreeze all over under it and to the point it was puddled up in the lower storage compartment. It has been cleaned up and the technician performing the PDI pulled the refrigerator out of the mount to check lines and fittings and is confident the leak is internal to the refrigerator itself.


Looking thru some of the build pics I noticed what looks like the cold line T'ing off of the cold faucet feed and heading back towards the refrigerator. Pulling a drawer or two by the refrigerator shows it heading to a valve which then changes it to a white line looping down and thru the wall.



I already see how to disable the ice maker, electronically, adding to that the ability to shut off the water, I am fine with leaving it this way.


I heard that supply shortages for Frigidaire is why the move to Samsung happened, I am not knocking anyone for doing so. I would however vote that the idea be re-visited with other refrigerator manufacturers in mind.


Assuming this would be 2 separate shutoffs are only for the refrigerator water line?


Will see if this refrigerator can just keep things cold and we'll be good.


Thanks,
Jim

I have the same refrigerator in my 2021. I would have preferred a Frigidaire, but from my understanding in discussions with Dynamax, it wasn’t only supply shortages that caused the switch. Samsung would allow them to drill into the doors to attach the new style door locks, and not void the warranty, which are a vast improvement over the bungee cord system on previous models.

The refrigerator has worked well and keeps things plenty cold. My only annoyance with the Samsung is you cannot completely turn off the power when connected to shore power. You have two choices. First, put the unit in “demo” mode, which leaves the fan running all the time and lights come on when the doors are open, or second, turn off the breaker. So, turning off the breaker is not a bad idea except it is the same breaker as the awnings. The Frigidaire had a menu selection to shut all power of except the menu…minimal power draw.

Probably a unique situation to me because I store our rig next to our house, hooked to shore power full time. We seem to be in and out of it regularly even though we are not getting ready for any trips. We live in Florida and occasionally put the awnings out on a hot summer day to keep the heat down inside the rig. It would be nice to turn off the fridge completely and not turn off the awnings. Again, probably unique to me and not a big deal.

And yes, there is a water shutoff to the fridge and a separate ice maker shutoff. Ours is directly under the fridge behind the access panel.

 

[MoJoe1003]

I took some pictures on a factory tour in October.



Here's a shot from the outside looking in to under the refrigerator space of an M2 TS. I would say that both shutoffs belong to the refrigerator and that was what I thought at the time.



I think your rig may have been in the paint booth at the time of the pic!



We took delivery last February and haven't turned the water on to the ice maker/water dispenser. We are a little fussy about the water we drink.

We are a bit fussy about our water, too. However, I hate carrying a bunch of bottled water all the time. So, we purchased a system from the RV Filter Store that I hook up inline with the water line when I am setting up at the campground. We then use the water from the refrigerator for drinking and making coffee. Have to say the water tastes as good as bottled water. With this system the water from the campground is passing through a sediment filter and a carbon filter (outside), the house filter installed by Dynamax and the carbon filter in the refrigerator before it gets dispensed. (4 filters) Short of installing a full reverse osmosis system, it’s pretty dang good water. https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/water-filter-system-universal-mounting


If we plan to boondock then we bring bottled water because we do not drink the water out of the fresh water tank. We turn the icemaker off when only using the fresh water tank…I’m particular about my ice as well.

 

[bclemens]

The change was two-fold.

1. Samsung would allow us to drill into the door without voiding the warranty. That was part of it, but not enough to change in my mind.
2. Service. Frigidaire would require the fridge to be OUT of the motorhome before a tech can work on it. Samsung & GE would treat the RV just like a home and the fridge can be serviced inside.

We used GE on the 16cf because they did not have the larger sizes available at the time. GE has really been stepping up as of late in various areas (A/C's and fridges), they will continue to get more of our business if they keep supporting it.

Samsung is represented by River Park and they have been a great supplier for service and support. Frigidaire was not.

There is not a single brand where you can't find someone with a horror story. Appliances and RV's alike. So we weight all the evidence that we have and make the best decision that we can.

 

[MoJoe1003]

The change was two-fold.

1. Samsung would allow us to drill into the door without voiding the warranty. That was part of it, but not enough to change in my mind.
2. Service. Frigidaire would require the fridge to be OUT of the motorhome before a tech can work on it. Samsung & GE would treat the RV just like a home and the fridge can be serviced inside.

We used GE on the 16cf because they did not have the larger sizes available at the time. GE has really been stepping up as of late in various areas (A/C's and fridges), they will continue to get more of our business if they keep supporting it.

Samsung is represented by River Park and they have been a great supplier for service and support. Frigidaire was not.

There is not a single brand where you can't find someone with a horror story. Appliances and RV's alike. So we weight all the evidence that we have and make the best decision that we can.

Thanks, I forgot about the service aspect. Just be clear, the in-coach service and the new style door locks far outweigh what I described as a pretty minor issue that was just a personal thing in my particular situation. I’m totally fine with my Samsung. No horror story here.

If I could figure how to switch it to a different 20 amp breaker it would solve everything.

 

[bclemens]

Thanks, I forgot about the service aspect. Just be clear, the in-coach service and the new style door locks far outweigh what I described as a pretty minor issue that was just a personal thing in my particular situation. I’m totally fine with my Samsung. No horror story here.

If I could figure how to switch it to a different 20 amp breaker it would solve everything.

While I like the new Stainless Steel latches, they are still not "perfect". If you want to reverse the door for any reason that creates a minor issue.

ReCubed was just out at our place and they have a new gen of the "Fridge Fixer". They now adhere via 3M VHB tape. I think that might work. He printed up some samples, I just have to try them out.

 

[PopFla]

So, turning off the breaker is not a bad idea except it is the same breaker as the awnings.

I'm not sure I understand this. Could you clarify? Is your fridge 120 volt AC (thus on a circuit breaker), or 12 volt DC (on a fuse rather than a breaker)? I've never encountered an RV with a 120 volt awning.

 

[bclemens]

Thanks, I forgot about the service aspect. Just be clear, the in-coach service and the new style door locks far outweigh what I described as a pretty minor issue that was just a personal thing in my particular situation. I’m totally fine with my Samsung. No horror story here.

If I could figure how to switch it to a different 20 amp breaker it would solve everything.

PS. Someone on here just wired in a wall switch to the fridge outlet.

Without wiring, you could also use a "Wemo" OR use a power strip and would move the plug to below the fridge. Make the louver accessible so you can just turn the power strip off when needed.

 

[bclemens]

I'm not sure I understand this. Could you clarify? Is your fridge 120 volt AC (thus on a circuit breaker), or 12 volt DC (on a fuse rather than a breaker)? I've never encountered an RV with a 120 volt awning.

The Girard awning is 120V

 

[MoJoe1003]

PS. Someone on here just wired in a wall switch to the fridge outlet.



Without wiring, you could also use a "Wemo" OR use a power strip and would move the plug to below the fridge. Make the louver accessible so you can just turn the power strip off when needed.

Great idea. I assume I would have to pull the fridge to get to the power plug?

 

[PopFla]

The Girard awning is 120V

Thank you! Even though I'm a dinosaur, I try to learn something new every day!

 

[bclemens]

Great idea. I assume I would have to pull the fridge to get to the power plug?

Most likely. I think it is above the platform and midway up as I think there needs to be a "drip loop"

 

[MoJoe1003]

Most likely. I think it is above the platform and midway up as I think there needs to be a "drip loop"

Also, you know I’m a fan of the Fridge Fixer and the VHB tape attachment sounds like a winner. If it works to your satisfaction, having one solution for all would probably be preferable. Good news for most of the residential refrigerators is they are double door units. Doors can’t be reversed, so the current stainless steel ones work great and don’t have that problem. I can see it being an issue on the single door units.

 

[CyberShanks!]

I suppose the good news is the fridge has a 10 year warranty. I'll leave the water shut off 'for now' to it. If we decide to change minds down the road, I'll just call for Samsung service guy. I wonder how heavy the fridge is?


I get the change, and don't fault ya for making it Brian. Thanks for further explanation. I have multiple internal problems with Samsung, will leave that discussion for a later day. It's at-least a 3-4 beer topic


Jim

 

[Phreak480]

Thanks, I forgot about the service aspect. Just be clear, the in-coach service and the new style door locks far outweigh what I described as a pretty minor issue that was just a personal thing in my particular situation. I’m totally fine with my Samsung. No horror story here.

If I could figure how to switch it to a different 20 amp breaker it would solve everything.

on my 2017 I5 35DB I installed this in the outlet where the fridge plugs in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083CQF18N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I then can reach through the grill in front of the furnace (below the fridge) and flip the switch with a butter knife, a chopstick, a pen, etc. This way I don't have to kill any breakers but can force my fridge actually off.

 

[Phreak480]

Or you could use an item like this and route the cord to a spot where the button is easy to reach https://www.amazon.com/Cordinate-Designer-Tabletop-Resistant-41095/dp/B07KFMNJLH/ref=sr_1_37?keywords=plug+in+outlet+switch+cord&qid=1638299533&sr=8-37

 

[bclemens]

Or you could use an item like this and route the cord to a spot where the button is easy to reach https://www.amazon.com/Cordinate-Designer-Tabletop-Resistant-41095/dp/B07KFMNJLH/ref=sr_1_37?keywords=plug+in+outlet+switch+cord&qid=1638299533&sr=8-37

Great idea.

 

[CyberShanks!]

Looks like the fridge can pull up to 15A, so, would need to find a more 'heavy duty' line of power button/cord.


Jim

 

[Phreak480]

Looks like the fridge can pull up to 15A, so, would need to find a more 'heavy duty' line of power button/cord.


Jim

Good point. My fixed location switch is rated for the full 15 amps. I just stick a stick through the furnace grate and flip it. Once in the spring to turn it on, and once in the fall to turn it off.

I'd wager with some searching someone can find a corded switch one that is as well.