Sanibel A/C wiring question

[chunker21]

I have a specific question about a Sanibel model model the 3802FL(W. We are looking for a used model, 2021 or newer that we'll put on our lot in NW FL on a bayou. It won't travel and will sit in full sun. Thus 3 air conditioners is required. In the older 3802 2 fully ducted units are installed. A video I saw on a 2023 states that. A video on the 2025 says "new for 2025" is 3 units and it shows ceiling plate in the living room instead of fully, and only, ducted. Pitcures or descriptions not given for the other 2 units. A listing for a new 2024 doesn't say how many but a picture shows a LR ceiling plate. The ad from the dealer is terrible and has little accurate and detailed specifications.

I called PT with the questions and the customer service/technical support wasn't sure of much. I haven't called sales to see what they know. Specifically I trying to figure out if the middle vent has power to it. Yes 12VDC of course but is there 120VAC AND thermostat wiring? If not, I'm going to consider something else.

 

[Aussieguy]

probably better off getting better a/c units anyways...

in any trailer you purchase... The rooftop units are notoriously in-efficient

A good mini split or two would be better and they are more serviceable
The savings in electricity would pay for them, especially if you handy and can DIY the install

If you paying for electric ... put solar panels all over the roof

 

[fordmoco]

I have a 2021 Sanibel 3802FL and live is south Louisiana where is hot in the summer. It comes with a 15,000 BTU in the living room and a 13,500 btu in the bed room. Both are ducted together. This just would not get it done in the hot summers, so I added another 15,000 btu non ducted, in the kitchen where the vent/fan was. I was hopping to find a prewire for the 120V supply, but it wasn't there. I used the 12V wire from the fan to power the thermostat, but I didn't want to pull the extra amps from my existing breaker box so I had to run a 120V power wire from another plug that I installed in the outside wall to another breaker box that I installed in the pass through and then up to the vent location. I also had to run the thermostat wire over to the wall where the other Thermostat was located to mount the new thermostat. It took a weekend to install everything. I only use it when I need extra cooling on hot camping days. Now I do have to hook up another heavy duty 20 amp power cord from the outside power pole to my inlet plug located just below the main power inlet on my camper. This set up has worked well for me with no problems and the wife is now happy.

 

[Aussieguy]

I have a 2021 Sanibel 3802FL and live is south Louisiana where is hot in the summer. It comes with a 15,000 BTU in the living room and a 13,500 btu in the bed room. Both are ducted together. This just would not get it done in the hot summers, so I added another 15,000 btu non ducted,

WOOOOOO
you got enough air conditioner to cool a 2500 sq foot house
your trailer is about 400sq foot (40ft x 10ft)
where are the rest of your BTU going?

did you have anything tested before adding more btu
slide seals , gaps in doors /walls?
window tint and sealant?

measured the output temperature of the a/c?
what setting on thermostat you got it set at
I use 77 normally and
some days may bump it down to 75... for those extra humid days

something appears totally OFF?

 

[chunker21]

delete

 

[chunker21]

WOOOOOO
you got enough air conditioner to cool a 2500 sq foot house
your trailer is about 400sq foot (40ft x 10ft)
where are the rest of your BTU going?

did you have anything tested before adding more btu
slide seals , gaps in doors /walls?
window tint and sealant?

measured the output temperature of the a/c?
what setting on thermostat you got it set at
I use 77 normally and
some days may bump it down to 75... for those extra humid days

something appears totally OFF?

I'd reply to your "comment" but it comes off as a troll. Have a nice day

 

[fordmoco]

First off, let me apologize. It was not my intention to provoke anger or stir up controversy or disrupt the conversation by posting something irrelevant.

The main reason for the post was to answer the question asked regarding the 120V power supply at the vent fan location in this particular model RV. I guess I did go on a rant as what I had to do to install the an a/c at that location. Sorry about that, happy camping.

 

[chunker21]

FO I don't think anyone is angry nor do I consider your post to be a rant. I don't think aussieguy understands how an RV is built, or should I say under built in respect to insulation and heat loss and gain. I could have easily listed a dozen reasons why you needed 3 units and the same reasons I need them. Regardless, thanks for your post as that's what I would have to do if I got a Sanibel. But since other brands and models do prewire the center fan opening, that is the direction we'll take.

 

[Aussieguy]

Aussieguy does not understand why you :

a) don't fix and test your trailer so it leaks less
b) add additional shade or insulation where you can
c) maybe swap a/c for a better style... rooftop RC a/cs are very inefficient


on a residential RV that never moves lots of stuff can be done to improve things
before just plonking down more $$$ to buy another a/c and then paying $$$ to run it
all the while... the air leaks and bad insulation is not allowing the air conditioners to work properly

rooftop a/c are known to be some of the worst designs
known to short cycle the air straight back into the input
leak air into roof structure... very poor ducting

have you added any modification such as RV air flow
or sealed up leaks in the a/c's ducts and air handler section?
looked for ducts that may be blocked or somehow not routing air propperly

measured you temperature differential between the air going IN and the air going OUT of the a/c

so much can be achieved... before buying another a/c

a decent mini split in a residential (non moving) trailer will pay for itself in less electric bills
but you still need to address as many trailer design short comings as possible

 

[Aussieguy]

PS
newer mini splits can be connected straight to some solar panels
you need about 3 decent panels that produce around 90v

the solar will reduce your power consumption from the METER.
especially during the hottest parts of the day...
which happens to co-inside with the best solar production

once the newer mini splits have gotten the RV's temperature down... they use only a fraction of the power to maintain that temp...
they have variable speed controls etc that reduce their consumption to 400-600w (half of a rooftop unit)

you can now also find some rooftops that work with the same power saving variable speed
they are available on newer models but not yet readily available for replacement / repair situations

Look at.......... Furrion Chill Cube
+ there are other manafacturers /models that may be direct replacement for rooftops

 

[chunker21]

Aussie guy, thanks for that information. The "new" trailer will be my girl friends trailer and her decisions about what and how much to modify. Putting a roof such as pole barn over would obviously help a bunch but due to local codes and ordinances, not possible. I'm hoping for the best build quality possible to get the best insulation. Fully ducted systems in my opinion are not the best option for our application.