Seeking advice for solar setup

[Heavy Half Ton]

Thank you for all your replies so far. Very helpful & much appreciated!!

Asking for your opinion, and anyone else's opinion, on these panels & battery....

I can currently afford two of these 200W flexible panels (can I leave these unattached and position them in the sun when I'm parked in the shade?):

BougeRV Arch 200 Watts Fiberglass Flexible Solar Panel, Portable Bendable 12 Volts 10BB Mono Cell for RV Camping Home Boat Marine Curve Surface Black: https://a.co/d/7QETJ6a​

And this 280ah battery that was recommended:

CHINS 12V 280AH LiFePO4 Battery Lithium Battery - Built-in 200A BMS, 2000~8000 Cycles, Includes Low Temperature Cut-Off Function, Perfect for Replacing Most of Backup Power and Off-Grid: https://a.co/d/1uY3Dlg​

I’m not a fan of the regular flexible panels, CIGS panels are a horse of another color. They actually ship rolled up. The flexible panels, while they have their place, seem to not last too long. The Chins battery is well reviewed, and the 200 amp bm allows for upgrades (read: big inverter) down the line. For me, being able to use the microwave without a generator is a huge plus. I seek out generator free areas in campgrounds.

 

[RhumbleFish]

I can currently afford two of these 200W flexible panels (can I leave these unattached and position them in the sun when I'm parked in the shade?):

BougeRV Arch 200 Watts Fiberglass Flexible Solar Panel, Portable Bendable 12 Volts 10BB Mono Cell for RV Camping Home Boat Marine Curve Surface Black: Amazon.com​

You CAN, but - as those are (roof) mountable panels, not ground deploy panels - they don't have their own charge controller. Typical ground deploy panels have their own controllers, and are wired/connected via the "solar on the side" port - which leads straight to the battery. Mountable panels wire to a solar charge controller, which in turn leads to the battery. If your trailer was solar prepped then there MAY BE wiring and wire chases to take advantage of. If it already has solar on the roof, then you have a charge controller than you may be able to add to. I AM GOING TO ASSUME NOT, so you may have a charge controller to purchase and mount btw your panels and your battery, as well.

With 400w of solar, the big battery will do the most to help you boondock offgrid (and feed your electrical needs). Does your M16FQ have a propane(2-way) or 12v fridge? 12v fridge draws are/can be pretty drastic, and will freely drink electricity from your new batteries. Propane doesn't perform as well as the 12v, but significantly reduces your dependence on electricity.

If you need to stage the purchases, I'd do big battery first, then solar+charge controller.

Note, that's a great battery, I have two of its older, slightly bigger brothers - you need to make sure you've got a good place to mount it (eg, in the existing battery box - if you have one - on the tongue, or move it into the storage space under the bunk). If it's out on the tongue, it will be easier to wire (using existing connections) but more susceptible to temperatures (LiFePO4 doesn't want to be charged in very cold (freezing) temps). Moving it into the storage area gives you a little theft protection and weather proofing, but will require leading your wires in under your bunk.

Hope this helps!

 

[forest_fae]

I’m not a fan of the regular flexible panels, CIGS panels are a horse of another color. They actually ship rolled up. The flexible panels, while they have their place, seem to not last too long. The Chins battery is well reviewed, and the 200 amp bm allows for upgrades (read: big inverter) down the line. For me, being able to use the microwave without a generator is a huge plus. I seek out generator free areas in campgrounds.

Thank you for your honest opinion! I may go ahead and order that battery while it's on sale even though I don't know what I'm using for the rest of the set up yet.

I am currently not able to afford the CIGS panels, although I understand why they are preferred after looking them up and reading reviews.

So I'm looking for a more affordable option that isn't big, heavy & difficult to handle on my own, and that does not need to be installed on the top of the camper. I'm unsure how changing tariffs will affect prices on any of this stuff…

Open to all affordable suggestions!

PS I don't use the microwave so I'm going to be removing that and replacing with a small toaster oven, or adapting that space for storage and just put the toaster oven on the counter when needed

 

[forest_fae]

You CAN, but - as those are (roof) mountable panels, not ground deploy panels - they don't have their own charge controller. Typical ground deploy panels have their own controllers, and are wired/connected via the "solar on the side" port - which leads straight to the battery. Mountable panels wire to a solar charge controller, which in turn leads to the battery. If your trailer was solar prepped then there MAY BE wiring and wire chases to take advantage of. If it already has solar on the roof, then you have a charge controller than you may be able to add to. I AM GOING TO ASSUME NOT, so you may have a charge controller to purchase and mount btw your panels and your battery, as well.

With 400w of solar, the big battery will do the most to help you boondock offgrid (and feed your electrical needs). Does your M16FQ have a propane(2-way) or 12v fridge? 12v fridge draws are/can be pretty drastic, and will freely drink electricity from your new batteries. Propane doesn't perform as well as the 12v, but significantly reduces your dependence on electricity.

If you need to stage the purchases, I'd do big battery first, then solar+charge controller.

Note, that's a great battery, I have two of its older, slightly bigger brothers - you need to make sure you've got a good place to mount it (eg, in the existing battery box - if you have one - on the tongue, or move it into the storage space under the bunk). If it's out on the tongue, it will be easier to wire (using existing connections) but more susceptible to temperatures (LiFePO4 doesn't want to be charged in very cold (freezing) temps). Moving it into the storage area gives you a little theft protection and weather proofing, but will require leading your wires in under your bunk.

Hope this helps!

Very helpful, yes! Thank you very much. Based on feedback from you, others on this thread, and the product reviews… I'm gonna go ahead and order that battery while it's on sale!

My camper has a "solar ready" outlet on the side. There is nothing installed on the roof that didn't come that way from the factory (no solar). I'm not currently interested in installing anything on the roof.

The small refrigerator is a "NorCold" and can run off of electric or propane, I believe (that's how it was explained to me/ currently getting everything set up in our yard & need to level before I can test out the fridge/ it definitely works... I just haven't used it myself)

* Open to any suggestions for decent & affordable lightweight panels that would work for my situation, that I can to handle on my own

 

[RhumbleFish]

Very helpful, yes! Thank you very much. Based on feedback from you, others on this thread, and the product reviews… I'm gonna go ahead and order that battery while it's on sale!

Battery is great, you need to make sure you have a place to put it (Will it fit in your existing battery box? You're the only one who can answer this. If it doesn't you'll need a battery box - these are fairly cheap).

My camper has a "solar ready" outlet on the side. There is nothing installed on the roof that didn't come that way from the factory (no solar). I'm not currently interested in installing anything on the roof.

Gotcha. You'll either need ground deploy panels (with built-in controllers) and can use the solar-ready outlet (it is just a pair of wires that lead directly to the battery, behind a proprietary plug). The plug is wired to how Zamp uses it, so you'll need that style plug, and make sure you're wired properly (+ to +, - to -). Nothign special about the plug, just how the wires are lead.
If you want to use the panels you linked, you need to put a charge controller in between the ground deploy panels and the battery, likely after the solar on the side plug, inside your coach, where you can see the display.

The small refrigerator is a "NorCold" and can run off of electric or propane, I believe (that's how it was explained to me/ currently getting everything set up in our yard & need to level before I can test out the fridge/ it definitely works... I just haven't used it myself)

YES! this means you won't have as big a draw. Your big battery will help you offgrid tremendously. Solar will be a nice way to supplement your charging.

* Open to any suggestions for decent & affordable lightweight panels that would work for my situation, that I can to handle on my own

I don't have a recco for ground deploy panels - one of the biggest advantages of which is that you can tilt and move them for optimal sun collection - there are other upsides, as well. Downside is some risk of potential theft, zero collection when they are stowed and put away (like, when you're underway) and - to a lesser degree - damage and ground interference while deployed (not that this is a big thing).

I chose roof mount because it works for me, but understand you don't want that at all, and can respect that decision.

Hope this helps - you're really helping that trailer!

 

[RhumbleFish]

I don't use the microwave so I'm going to be removing that and replacing with a small toaster oven, or adapting that space for storage and just put the toaster oven on the counter when needed

Just a heads up to think of your power needs here - resistive heat (like the toaster oven) will require a LOT of 110v power/house current - you'll need an inverter if you want to run it off battery, something like 2,000w (which is not modest, but most toaster ovens are btw 1,200w and 1,800w and you'll need to accommodate what you are going to use it for). Microwave requires less power (more like 600w-1,000w), but you'll still need to provide 110v power to it... again, plugged in to a power pole, or an inverter. There are combo units that have a toaster oven and microwave in one unit, not sure if that is of interest or not. Reminder that you also have propane for a cooktop, as a culture we've sort of migrated away from using hot surfaces for reheating (instead, microwave!) - a nice skillet, a decent pot and a griddle, and a deep metal cover/lid and you can do a lot with the cooktop that a toaster oven would do. Just got to consider your use cases.

Great project to enhance your trailer and get it modestly off-grid capable!

 

[forest_fae]

Just a heads up to think of your power needs here - resistive heat (like the toaster oven) will require a LOT of 110v power/house current - you'll need an inverter if you want to run it off battery, something like 2,000w (which is not modest, but most toaster ovens are btw 1,200w and 1,800w and you'll need to accommodate what you are going to use it for). Microwave requires less power (more like 600w-1,000w), but you'll still need to provide 110v power to it... again, plugged in to a power pole, or an inverter. There are combo units that have a toaster oven and microwave in one unit, not sure if that is of interest or not. Reminder that you also have propane for a cooktop, as a culture we've sort of migrated away from using hot surfaces for reheating (instead, microwave!) - a nice skillet, a decent pot and a griddle, and a deep metal cover/lid and you can do a lot with the cooktop that a toaster oven would do. Just got to consider your use cases.

Great project to enhance your trailer and get it modestly off-grid capable!

Thanks again for your excellent replies!
I plan on doing most cooking on the stove top or outside on a small propane camping grill, weather permitting.

The toaster oven would just be for some occasional things that I might like to have like french fries, mini pizzas, etc... and obviously the occasional price of toast! I really wanted a model with an oven, however that didn't work out so I'm trying to make this work for me.

I'm coming back to a healthy state after 15 years of being disabled with lots of health issues and I'm doing much better these days!! Even started working again!! So I truly need to stay away from the radiation of the microwave altogether. I haven't used the microwave in our home for over r year for this reason (no shade to anyone that uses a microwave at all… It's just isn't for me anymore)

It seems like since the microwave needs the 110 V, that I could possibly use the wiring for that to hook up the toaster oven?? (I don't know how that part of connecting a toaster oven will work yet). The folks I bought the camper from said that they kept a small toaster oven under the cabinet and then just got it out and used it by plugging it into the electrical outlet at the kitchen counter, so I assumed I could do the same thing?

--- as far as the panels I linked to, I'm not opposed to getting an additional connector or whatever is needed... as long as I can make lightweight flexible panels work on the ground, or leaning up against a tree or other object.

I know I have a lot more learning to do! This forum and YouTube has been amazing. I'm feeling a bit of pressure to get the main parts of the system purchased (battery & panels) in case these items go up in price soon.

 

[forest_fae]

Hello, this is my first post!
I recently purchased a 2017 Forest River Wolf Pup M16FQ in great condition.

Following up on this and need some more help please

If I get...
• 2 of these dr prepare 100ah lithium batteries w/ charge monitoring screens: Amazon.com

• 2 of these renogy 100W 12V portable solar panels w/ solar charge controllers: Amazon.com

• and this furrion compatible connector cord: Amazon.com

What else do I need to finish connecting the system to work for my camper??

 

[Aussieguy]

I would say to try what you got

See how it works in places you go camping
200w is not a huge amount of solar

More or bigger panels is usually the answer for any shortfalls

The good thing is you can experiment and try it as you go

In future you might decide to buy a big 450w panel if you got some place to store it and the muscles to deploy it

I prefer rooftop permanent panels cause I am lazy

 

[forest_fae]

I would say to try what you got

Thanks! I placed my order for all the items on that list yesterday. I'm excited! I know I'll need to figure out where to mount the batteries...

Are there are any other wires/adapters etc. I'll need to connect what I purchased once it arrives?

 

[Aussieguy]

if you purchased multiple batteries you will need cables to join them together

get good quality cables .... most autoparts store's cables are not that good quality for paralleling

I prefer going to a "marine" store such as West marine.. they have a much better cable selection (sizes)
better lugs and tinned wire

you can buy premade cables or you can buy the cable and lugs and make the cables yourself
SIZE the cables so they can handle the maximum LOAD expected from the batteries Inverter loads?


most setups .... 2 gauge or bigger parallel cables would suffice for a small/medium system
BIGGER is always better ... just cost more

I paid $30 for the cables and have not had any issues... don't skimp on the quality

 

[forest_fae]

if you purchased multiple batteries you will need cables to join them together

Ok, I definitely need to do this!

you can buy premade cables or you can buy the cable and lugs and make the cables yourself

Not opposed to making them myself... thanks again for the info! I'll pick up cables etc this weekend!

 

[tomkatb]

I would pay the extra for the chins smart battery.

Has a blutooth monitor. Low temp protection and heaters for another. $100 or so.

It is a bit cheaper than the SOK which is constructed physically better. Costs even more. Near double. As mine needed work it matters sometimes! Defective bms. The weak point.

I am from the maintenance department. So I am biased.

 

[Aussieguy]

China’s Litime and other budget friendly batteries have gained popularity
Mainly because they have now been around for a couple of years

If you looking at budget freindly
Look for a HISTORY of a couple of years

All batteries will have a bad review or two
But if their batteries are crap word soon spreads to other places like our forums

Just about all batteries are produced from cells manufactured by just a few companies
Most of the times the BmS is the failure point….. swapping out a BMS is a doable DIY project

 

[forest_fae]

I would pay the extra for the chins smart battery.

Has a blutooth monitor. Low temp protection and heaters for another. $100 or so.

Thank you, I already ordered the items on the list & i'm excited for everything to arrive!! These batteries have low & hi temp protection and 10 yr warranty w/good reviews.

I didn't want Bluetooth because I don't want to rely on another device to monitor the system. I'm glad it works for you!