Slide alignment

[parver]

I am having problems with my slide horizontal alignment. The slide is coming in at an angle and is very close to hitting a cabinet, it's has about a half inch clearance. When we bought the RV, it had a couple inches. You can see the slide is coming in crooked when bringing it out and in.

If you stop it half way and measure the two sides, they are about a half inch off. This is a longer slide with two rack and pin tracks on the bottom and one actuating cylinder. I measured the teeth on both tracks (see pictures) and they are about a half inch off.

About a year ago I closed the slide and one of the drawers was open a little and it impacted it. This is when the problem started. When I started troubleshooting I thought maybe there was a sheer pin in this setup, but I don't think mine has that.

I know there is an adjustment bolt on the end of one of the tracks (blue arrow in picture) that I can move, and I tried this but didn't have much luck. The lippert manual for this setup talks about adjusting this, but it looks like it is in the same spot it was when it came out of the factory working normal (paint markings were used)

What is my next step? Could it be possible when the damage occurred that a couple teeth on the track got "jumped"? When aligning these, is it common practice to have to remove the gear portion and manually move the slide a few teeth in or out, and then reset the gear?

Thanks

 

[MR.M]

Look close at the mounting brackets bet one is bent . also cont gears showing from the pinion gear make sure those are the same count so you know it did not jump a gear or 2.

 

[TitanMike]

First thing to do is check the square rod that ties the forward and rear gear clusters together. Mine broke at the center where the two different sized pieces of the square rod were joined. They just "nest" one in the other but someone thought it would be a good idea to put a spot weld there and that's where it broke. Also make sure the bolts that pin the rod to the gear cluster shafts are in place. Not unheard of for one or the other to work loose or break and that will allow the entire slide room to get cocked in the opening.

I adjusted mine using my own method (not shown in manual) and it works great.

I have the same slide and on the end away from the actuator there is a "slip joint' that allows one to move that end in or out as needed. I loosened the bolt and pushed that end in an inch or so. I then tightened the bolt just enough to hold the outside bracket in place as the slide was retracted but not tight enough to keep it from slipping when the "room" contacted the body of the trailer.

When the slide was retracted the adjustable end of the slide was pushed out where it belonged with a snug seal on the body.

I then checked the actuator end to see if it was fully against the trailer body and sealed like the other end. If not, I adjusted the gold colored can on the actuator out and manually (used the crank) to move that end in until the slide seal was snug against the body (the other end is still loose so it too is moving as needed.


When both ends were properly sealed I then made sure the "can" was snug against the frame, lock nut tight, and then then tightened the bolts on the end opposite the actuator.


Checked operation by extending the slide and retracting once or twice ( wait about 5 minutes or so before repeating a slide in/out cycle to avoid overheating the slide motor). I believe the factory recommends a 4:1 rest period for each unit of time the slide is in operation.

Adjustment of the two nuts on the threaded actuator shaft are to control the max extension. You want good contact on the inner seals but not so much the wall of the trailer is stressed. Moving the boyh inner and outer nut at the bracket , toward the trailer body, will reduce the extension and moving them out will increase extension.

In closing be sure to check the connecting rod at gear clusters and bolts pinning rod to shafts FIRST. A broken rod or missing bolt can cause exactly the same issue.

 

[parver]

Look close at the mounting brackets bet one is bent . also cont gears showing from the pinion gear make sure those are the same count so you know it did not jump a gear or 2.

I will look at the mounting brackets.

What do you mean count the gears? That is what I did, see pictures.

 

[parver]

First thing to do is check the square rod that ties the forward and rear gear clusters together. Mine broke at the center where the two different sized pieces of the square rod were joined. They just "nest" one in the other but someone thought it would be a good idea to put a spot weld there and that's where it broke. Also make sure the bolts that pin the rod to the gear cluster shafts are in place. Not unheard of for one or the other to work loose or break and that will allow the entire slide room to get cocked in the opening.

The first thing I suspected was that square rod/link that connects the two was somehow damaged. But it seems fine. There is a little weld on where they join. Also the bolts on both ends appear in good condition. I thought one of these sheared off (I think they are suppose to). I may take them out and inspect them to see if they are bent or something.

As far as the actuator itself, I haven't messed with that yet but I will once I get the slide aligned. It doesn't seem like the actuator comes in to play with the slide being out of alignment.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Slide

Check the square rod to assure it hasn't twisted under some stress. That will offset the rack and gear position. Lay it on a flat table. If all four sides, lying on table one at a time have any space between the table and rod, then it is twisted. Also, on each side of the rod, if it rocks back and forth, it's twisted.

It may be necessary to use a couple of big adjustable wrenches and take any twist out of the square rod.

Bob

 

[TitanMike]

The first thing I suspected was that square rod/link that connects the two was somehow damaged. But it seems fine. There is a little weld on where they join. Also the bolts on both ends appear in good condition. I thought one of these sheared off (I think they are suppose to). I may take them out and inspect them to see if they are bent or something.

As far as the actuator itself, I haven't messed with that yet but I will once I get the slide aligned. It doesn't seem like the actuator comes in to play with the slide being out of alignment.

The bolts at the ends of the square rod aren't designed to act as "shear pins" as there isn't really enough force on the rod to do any damage if the passive end jams. The torque release clutch in the gearbox will start chattering if it jams long before the rod will twist or break.

Of course it's possible but a simple check of the bolts by turning in place and seeing if they act like cams will tell you if they're bent.

You are correct that the equalizer assembly (rod and gear clusters) don't do anything other than make sure that each end of the slide extends and retracts equally.

Based on your description, along with my experience with mine, some adjustments, both on the "passive end" bracket on the end of the rail with the rack gear, and following with the adjustments on the actuator, will put things straight.

One way to get back in "square" quiclly is to measure from trailer body to outside edge of slide with slide extended. If not equal, adjust the sliding bracket on the rail at the opposite end of slide from actuator. Loosen bolts and push in or out until both ends measure the same from the trailer body.

Tighten up the bolts, operate the slide, and see how it travels and "nests" in the body. If a gap when nested (hopefully even at this point) then adjust the "can" on the actuator until the slide fully retracts and hits the seal equally on both ends.

 

[Cowracer]

Just for your info...

My bedroom slide runs in and out fairly crookedly. It always squares up at the open and closed position, but anywhere in between its off by a bit. In fact, it alarmed me so much that I had techs at the FROG rally in Goshen look at it a couple years ago.

They ran it in and out and said it's completely normal. Sometimes, the underneath configuration prevents the factory from putting the actuator dead center of the slide. This, and the inherent backlash of the equalizer (side to side) gears can cause it some skew during travel. As this slide holds my bed, and the bed is 6 foot or so long, it really exaggerates the look of things, if you just go by the end of the bed. Just for my peace-of-mind, they thoroughly inspected everything anyway, and declared it all within adjustments.

My camper is a 2016, and this slide has done that since day one. It has not gotten worse, and has caused no issues. I understand your has gotten worse, but if your actuator is off-center, you might be chasing you own tail trying to get it to slide in and out totally square thru the whole travel.

Tim

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Slide System

While it does not apply to the posted issue, our TT has the Lippert system.

It uses two motors that are electronically synced together. This assures that each end moves in and out in a uniform manner. There are two drive motors and two gear tracks located on each end of the slide. I find and have confirmed the slide moves in straight and square and moves out straight and square. The slide is some 14 ft in length and contains the jack knife soft dinette booth and 3 storage units. I perceive that it is heavy. We are very pleased with the operation of the system.

There is a Service Bulletin, TSB 146-001-2011, for units dated October 2021 through January 2022. You might check to see if this applies to your Lippert slide system.

Bob

 

[TitanMike]

Just for your info...

My bedroom slide runs in and out fairly crookedly. It always squares up at the open and closed position, but anywhere in between its off by a bit. In fact, it alarmed me so much that I had techs at the FROG rally in Goshen look at it a couple years ago.

They ran it in and out and said it's completely normal. Sometimes, the underneath configuration prevents the factory from putting the actuator dead center of the slide. This, and the inherent backlash of the equalizer (side to side) gears can cause it some skew during travel. As this slide holds my bed, and the bed is 6 foot or so long, it really exaggerates the look of things, if you just go by the end of the bed. Just for my peace-of-mind, they thoroughly inspected everything anyway, and declared it all within adjustments.

My camper is a 2016, and this slide has done that since day one. It has not gotten worse, and has caused no issues. I understand your has gotten worse, but if your actuator is off-center, you might be chasing you own tail trying to get it to slide in and out totally square thru the whole travel.

Tim

True but slide needs to move in or out smoothly, without jamming, and "nest" squarely when retracted.

If slide equalizer has excessive play in gear engagement that alows unequal movement of sides, it's possible the side supports in the gear cluster are worn. This will allow a greater gap between pinion gear and rack teeth.

 

[Cowracer]

True but slide needs to move in or out smoothly, without jamming, and "nest" squarely when retracted.

If slide equalizer has excessive play in gear engagement that alows unequal movement of sides, it's possible the side supports in the gear cluster are worn. This will allow a greater gap between pinion gear and rack teeth.

Agree. But mine does indeed move smoothly. And it nests squarely at both ends (extended and retracted). It just goes a little skewed when actually motoring in or out. I've never measured it, but at the slide I bet its less than a half inch. At the foot of the bed (which moves with the slide) its maybe a 1-1.5 inches out of square during its stroke.

When I get to camper this weekend, I'll get a video of it opening.

Tim

 

[TitanMike]

Agree. But mine does indeed move smoothly. And it nests squarely at both ends (extended and retracted). It just goes a little skewed when actually motoring in or out. I've never measured it, but at the slide I bet its less than a half inch. At the foot of the bed (which moves with the slide) its maybe a 1-1.5 inches out of square during its stroke.

When I get to camper this weekend, I'll get a video of it opening.

Tim

When you have it out almost all the way, take a look at the gap between the rails (the ones with the gear rack on their bottom) and the top of the tube they retract into. If this gap is more tan approximately 1/4" the composite rollers on each side of the pinion gear may have worn enough to allow more slack in the gear/rack engagement.

Not a big deal if the slide doesn't bind.


For the record, I got real up close and personal with my electric through frame slide and all it's parts about 6 months ago. It quit and I had to replace the gearbox/actuator and while doing so I did a complete realign and adjustment of my slide. Found Lippert's online resources a little lacking specifically for a "flush-floor through frame slide. There's really not a lot of magic involved as it's simply a big box that's pushed out and pulled into the main trailer body using a ball screw actuator (or hydraulic piston on some types) and a rack/pinion equalizer to keep it somewhat straight. Any lash in the rack/pinion engagement will allow some skewing as it slides in or out but there's plenty of clearance that the slide room really won't bind unless it gets really sideways in the opening or enough the sliding rails bind.

If the rollers in the gear cluster are worn, or end plate bearing plates have elongated holes, gear clusters are available on Amazon from the Lippert store and only take about 30 min's each to replace. About $72 ea although 6 mo's ago I only paid $56

Here's a pic showing the rollers I'm mentioning:

In closing, I use my trailer A LOT. Only time it sits on it's pad for more than a few weeks is during the deepest of winter months when snow/ice is a local issue. Even then if roads are clear and I can escape to the South where the only place people see Ice is in their drink glasses I'm on the move. It's just me in the house so I don't have to plan around others. This means my slide has had a lot of In's and Out's since I brought it home in 2017. Wear is to be expected

 

[parver]

I got a chance to get out and tinker with the slide yesterday.

My slide went in fairly straight when I first got the unit. So I wanted to get it back to straight. I had an issue when I was bringing the slide in and had a drawer that was open. The slide hit the drawer and of course damaged the drawer but surprisingly, not too bad. Also surprisingly, I think this bent the slide bracket. I didn't think a drawer would have enough strength and the slide motor would just plow through it.

Anyway, per the suggestions here I took off the cross member that ties the two gear packs together and inspected it. It was slightly bent, but not really twisted. I did take the bend out.

The gear packs seemed fine themselves. I think the issue is with the mounting bracket (as the first responder noted). If you look down at the picture that says "bent?" can you see the near side appears slightly bent. And where it attached to the support, you can it is not sitting flush. The support that runs length wise under the frame has a gap in it, not really sure why. Seems like it would make it a lot easier to inadvertently twist.

My options were to somehow unbend this, or use the various adjustments to reset the whole slide. I ended up doing the latter. In hindsight, perhaps I could have use the slide motor to unbend this bracket by sticking a 2x4 in between the bracket and the frame and running the motor a little to put some pressure on it. But the slide was going in too snug, so it needed adjustments anyway.

Thought I would post this to help someone some day.

By the way, when your slide is all the way in, what are you clearances on the outside for a long dual gear pack slide like this? Just wondering how "tight" it is suppose to be against the seal. Mine measured at 1/2 inch on the motor side, and 3/4 inch on the other side. Much more than a 1/2 inch I feel like it's pressing against he wall too much. Mine was doing this and started to crack the wall. Hope the crack doesn't develop much more.

Thanks again to all who helped.

 

[parver]

Look close at the mounting brackets bet one is bent . also cont gears showing from the pinion gear make sure those are the same count so you know it did not jump a gear or 2.

Has anyone ever had these things jump a gear or two? With the mounting setup, seems like it would be very difficult. Also, two jump a gear or two the cross member that ties the two gear packs together would have to get pretty twisted, wouldn't it?

 

[TitanMike]

Has anyone ever had these things jump a gear or two? With the mounting setup, seems like it would be very difficult. Also, two jump a gear or two the cross member that ties the two gear packs together would have to get pretty twisted, wouldn't it?

Unless there is some SERIOUS wear on pinion or rack gear teeth, almost impossible for the teeth to "jump". Rack is held solid in the through frame rail and gear cluster is firmly bolted to bottom of the through frame rail.

There is some lash in the pinion/rack assembly so a slide can move more on one side or the other but when it reaches full extension or retraction it is aligned with the RV's sidewall.

Unless the alignment is so great it causes binding in the opening while moving this is considered normal.